Sewing instructions for the Colleen sweater

When sewing Colleen , you can use up your fabric scraps, ideally in a wild and colorful mix. If you only want to use one fabric, we recommend striped jersey or fine knit. The panels can then be cut across the stripes, creating a striking contrast with the rest of the sweater . The distinctive detail is definitely the wide panels at the neckline.

Length in the back center = 52 – 56cm

→ To the “Colleen” pattern

In this tutorial, Colleen was sewn from a viscose jersey.

Required materials:

We recommend jersey or a soft knit fabric , preferably striped.

Sizes 34-42	Outer fabric	1.20 m	140 cm wide
Sizes 44-50	Outer fabric	1.30 m	140 cm wide
Sizes 34-42	Contrast Blend	0.40 m	140 cm wide
Sizes 44-50	Contrast Blend	0.50 m	140 cm wide

Cutting:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked!

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Lay the fabric right side up. Place the selvedges parallel to the center so you can place the front and back pieces and the facings at the front and back on the fold. The pattern pieces should all be laid with the writing facing up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm snip with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Notch the seam allowance on the fold, as this is always the center. Marks define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.

You will need fabric:

• 1x back part in the fracture
• 1x front part in the break
• 2x sleeves opposite

You will need contrast fabric:

• 1x cover at the back in the break
• 1x cover in front of the break
• 2x facing sleeves opposite

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked!

To sew this sweater you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

Be sure to use a jersey needle and a stretchy stitch, which means that if you're using a home sewing machine, you should use either a zigzag stitch or the three-part stretch stitch and then finish all seam allowances again with a zigzag stitch or another similar stitch to prevent fraying.

In addition to the description, the colored lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1 cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

As you may have noticed in previous sewing instructions, we like to prepare certain pieces before we begin sewing. The preparation for this sweater includes finishing and pressing the hems on the front and back. Pay attention to the notches in the pattern.

You also prepare the sleeves by neatening and ironing the hems, paying attention to the notches in the pattern.

Now let's move on to the neckline, which in our sewing example is a different color. All panel pieces are ironed, wrong sides together, with the fold folded, and prepared. Then, the sleeve panel is sewn together with the front panel, which is marked by a V-notch, right sides together. Press the seam allowances open.

Next, sew the front facing with the sleeve facing, right sides together. The sleeve facing is also sewn with the back facing, right sides together. Here, too, iron the seam allowances apart.

The neckline is closed in a round by sewing the back panel, right sides together, to the sleeve panel. Then, press the seam allowances open.

This is what your finished neckline looks like, wrong side together, ironed in the fold.

Next, sew the bust darts. After accurately transferring the pattern and paying close attention to the markings, a simple, straight dart is sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, notch by notch, tapering nicely from the widest point to the tip (so the dart doesn't bunch up). Beforehand, draw a line with tailor's chalk to ensure you don't over-stitch or under-stitch, and that the side seam ends nicely and straight.
To avoid having to lock the tip, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch.

Iron the dart contents upwards.

Now, turn to the sleeves and, with right sides together, close the inner sleeve seam. Finish the seam allowances together and press them back.

Sew the side seams together, right sides together. Neaten the seam allowances and press them to the back.

Now the prepared hem of the front and back pieces can be folded over and stitched.

You also fold over the prepared sleeve hems and stitch them through.

The neckline trim is secured with a stitching line within the seam allowance (preferably 0.5 cm wide). This prevents it from stretching when the trim is sewn in.

Sew the sleeves, right sides together, to the front and back pieces. Neaten the seam allowances together.

Sew the prepared neckline facing, right sides together, to the front, back, and armholes. Make sure the seams meet. Note: The front facing is shorter than the back facing. The seam allowances are neatened together and pressed down.

The seam allowances are then stitched flat. This method not only facilitates the final ironing, but also ensures that the seam allowances of the facing do not curl upwards; they are essentially fixed in place. Only the body pieces are stitched close to the seam allowances.

This is what your finished neckline with facing should look like.

Your COLLEEN is ready !

If you're stuck or have any questions, please email us at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We'll respond as soon as possible. 

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your pattern team