NÄHANLEITUNG PULLOVER “TONI”

SEWING INSTRUCTIONS SWEATER “TONI”

Sewing patterns with special details are our passion, so even simple cuts need an eye-catcher. The Toni sweater has a beautiful V-neck and two crossed straps coming from the shoulder seam. This means the neckline doesn't look so generous and creates a great cleavage. The fit of the sweater is rather slim and therefore feminine, but this in no way limits its comfort. The sleeves, which flare out towards the hem, are gathered together in a high cuff.

Length at center back = 63 – 68 cm

→ To the pattern “Toni”

In these instructions, Toni was sewn from a soft jersey.

Required material:

We recommend an elastic jersey or knit.

Outer fabric Sizes 34-42 1.40 m 140cm wide
Outer fabric Sizes 44-50 1.60 m 140cm wide
inlay Sizes 34-50 0.40m 90cm wide

Cutting:

Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interlining . Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the middle so that you can place the front, back and facing at the back and front in the fold. The pattern pieces should all lie face up. Always align the thread up arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all clips from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts, note that bust darts must be used for larger sizes. Clip the seam allowance in the fabric fold because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends , pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or a pin . It is best to roughly cut all outer fabric parts that will be completely covered with inserts first. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing cut parts here.

What you need from fabric:

  • 1x back part in the break
  • 1x front part in the break
  • 2x front part band 1 opposite
  • 2x front part band 2 opposite
  • 2x cuff
  • 2x sleeves in opposite directions

also with insert:

  • 1x receipt at the back in the break
  • 1x receipt at the front in the break

Sewing instructions:

To sew this sweater you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the raw edges.

Be sure to use a jersey needle and use a stretchy stitch, i.e. if you are sewing with a household sewing machine, you should use either a zigzag stitch or the three-part elastic stitch and then all seam allowances again with a zigzag stitch or another appropriate stitch Neaten so they don't fray. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

Sizes 44-50 have a bust dart, sew this according to the cut. After transferring the pattern exactly and paying close attention to the marking, a simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the left side of the fabric, clip by clip, tapering nicely from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart doesn't bag). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and the side seam is nice and straight.
So that you don't have to lock at the tip, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Iron the dart contents upwards.

Start with the most complicated part of your new sweater, the crossed ties at the front. To do this, take the ribbons and place them all on top of each other, right sides together, and sew them together. Iron the seam allowance apart using a thick, flat pencil. Then turn the ribbons right side out with a safety pin and lay everything nice and flat. The seam is in the middle.

The straps have most likely stretched a bit due to the turning. If this is the case, you will need to cut them to the correct length according to the pattern.

Now take the front and back pieces and close both shoulder seams, right sides together, up to the first snap of the back piece. You can secure the shoulder seams with a silicone band, especially if you have a very soft fabric.

Here you can see a detailed view of the shoulder seams.

Clean up the lower cut edges of the facings before processing them.

Now place the ribbons in front of you and intertwine them together. Pay attention to the different lengths and positions in the cut. Once you have the ribbons properly crossed in front of you, you can secure them together with pins and then pin them to the positions in the neckline. Then place the front receipt over it, right to right. For lace, seam allowances are cut with scissors. This spreads the lace apart when turning and allows the seam allowances to lay nice and flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the tip and away from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that doesn't fray so quickly after cutting. The seam allowance of the curve is also nipped in a little.

This is how your cutout should look processed. Stitch the straps together at the top using an auxiliary stitch.

Place the back facing, right sides together, at the neck hole of the back piece. Here too, the seam allowances of the curve are clipped in a little.

The seam allowances are then stitched flat as far as you can get them. This method not only makes the final ironing out easier, but also means that the receipt, if it is not stitched, automatically folds inwards and does not roll out. Only the facing is stitched close to the edge on the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the left inside of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Now you can also sew the upper band ends, right sides together, to the shoulders.

Now close the remaining piece of the shoulder with a seam and finish the entire seam together. Trim the corner of the receipt beforehand so that it doesn't show through after turning it over.

Turn and turn all the facings into the correct position and press the shoulder seam allowance backwards.

Sew the side seams together as usual, right sides together, and neaten the seam allowances. These are then ironed backwards.

Now you can neaten the hem all around.

Now let's move on to the cuffs on the sleeve. Sew these together, right sides together, and iron the seam allowances apart.

Iron the cuffs right side out and sew an auxiliary seam within the opening.

Close the inner arm seam right sides together and finish the seam allowances together. Iron these backwards.

The bottom hem of the sleeve is gathered. Insert a large auxiliary seam and gather it 4cm larger than the circumference of the cuff. This ensures that the cuff is later stretched onto the sleeve and gives way when you put it on.

Now place your prepared cuff on the sleeve, right sides together, and finish the seam allowances together.

Place the correct sleeve in the correct armhole and finish the seam allowances together.

Press the hem according to the pattern and stitch it in place.

Your TONI is ready !

If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will respond to you as quickly as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Warmest regards, Dagmar and Ellen.

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