Nähanleitung Pullover Umeko

Sewing instructions sweater Umeko

Patterns with special details are our passion, so even simple cuts need an eye-catcher. The sweater Umeko has a beautiful V-neckline with wide panels. The special feature is the "open" sleeves, here the seams are individually processed between the upper arm and cuffs and give the sweater an airy character. The fit of the sweater is rather narrow and therefore feminine, but this in no way restricts the comfort. The sleeves, which are flared towards the hem, are gathered in a high cuff.

Length at center back = 63-68cm

Umeko was sewn from a thin neoprene fabric/scuba in this pattern.

→ To the pattern “Umeko”

Required material:

We recommend a rope or scuba (thin neoprene)

Sizes 34-42 outer fabric 1.60 m 140cm wide
Sizes 44-50 outer fabric 1.80 m 140cm wide
Sizes 34-50 inlay 0.40 m 90 cm wide


Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so you can lay the front, back, and facing in the fold at the back. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing pattern pieces here.

You need from fabric:

  • 1x back part in break
  • 1x front part in break
  • 2x cuff
  • 2x upper sleeves in opposite directions
  • 2x lower sleeves in opposite directions

also with insert:

  • 2x aperture at the back in the break
  • 2x bezel in front
  • 1x front section

also with band:

  • 1x bezel rear


Sewing instructions:

To sew this dress you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to overcast the raw edges.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing!

Start your project by neatening the front piece,...

... of the back part,...

... the two upper sleeves and...

... of the two lower sleeves. Use the yellow lines in the photo as a guide.

Then iron the hems according to the pattern.

Now sew the shoulder seams right sides together and iron the seam allowances apart.

Next, prepare the back panel for the cutout. Lay both right sides together and turn over the neckline. Pinch the seam allowances in the curve a little so that they lie down better when turning.

Then the seam allowances are flat-stitched as far as you can get. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also means that the facing automatically lies inwards and does not roll out if it is not topstitched separately. Only the facing is stitched to the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Here you can see a detailed view of the rear bezel. Iron the back panel together, wrong sides together.

Iron the front panel together, wrong sides together and iron the parts into shape so that the neckline nestles up nicely against your décolleté later on.

Now sew the back panel to the front panel, right sides together, and iron out the seam allowances.

With a coarse auxiliary seam all around you secure both layers of fabric from slipping.

The bezel is superimposed on the front. Here, too, secure the layers of fabric with an auxiliary seam.

Now sew the finished panel right sides together into the neckline and neaten the seam allowances together. Then iron them down.

This is what your finished cutout with the panel looks like.

Sew the side seams right sides together and press open the seam allowances.

Now come to the processing of the sleeves. Sew the back seam of the upper and lower sleeves right sides together up to the beginning of the slit. Press the seam allowances apart and the seam allowances of the slit once.

Stitch the slit all around the width of a stitching foot.

Here you can see a detailed view of the quilting.

Do the same with the slit of the front seam.

Iron the cuffs wrong sides together in a fold.

Then, put them right sides together and stitch them into a round. Press open the seam allowances and fold the cuffs on top of each other in the fold.

Secure both layers of fabric with an auxiliary seam.

Now lay the sleeves one on top of the other according to the marking snaps, the stretch between and opposite is gathered. Take a look at our video on the topic of curling.

Now place the finished cuff right sides together on the sleeve hem and neaten the seam allowances.

This is what your finished cuff looks like.

Place the finished sleeve right sides together in the appropriate armhole and neaten the seam allowances together.

Finally, stitch the hem in place.

Your UMEKO is ready !

If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your Dagmar and Ellen.

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