Sewing instructions for Doris-Devon pajamas

The Doris-Devon pajamas are a classic two-piece set, consisting of a long-sleeved top with a simple blouse collar, buttoned down the center front, and comfortable pants with an elastic waistband. The pajamas are comfortable but not oversized. Simply perfect for feeling good.

Length in the center back = 70 – 77 cm

Side length = 100 cm

→ To the “Doris-Devon” pattern

Doris-Devon was sewn in this pattern from a soft viscose.

Required materials:

We recommend a flowing cotton, viscose or silk.

Sizes 34-38	Outer fabric	3.10 m	140 cm wide
Sizes 40-44	Outer fabric	3.80 m	140 cm wide
Sizes 46-50	Outer fabric	4.40 m	140 cm wide
Sizes 34-50	insert	1.00 m	90 cm wide
Sizes 34-50	rubber band	0.60 m	2 cm wide
Sizes 34-50	buttons	6 pieces	12 mm diameter

Cutting:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interfacing. Lay the fabric right side up. Place the selvedges parallel to the center so you can place the back piece and upper/lower collar on the fold. The pattern pieces should all be laid with the writing facing up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm slit with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Notch the seam allowance along the fold, as this is always the center. Marks define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It's best to roughly cut all outer fabric pieces that will be completely covered with interfacing. After you have secured the interfacing, cut it out precisely. There is also a video here about gluing and securing pattern pieces.

We start with the DORIS pajama blouse:

You will need fabric:

• 2x front part opposite
• 1x back part in the fracture
• 2x bag opposite
• 2x sleeves opposite

also with insert:

• 2x front receipt opposite
• 1x upper collar in the fold
• 1x undercollar in the fold / diagonal grain

also with forming tape:

• 2x neck hole front part
• 1x neck hole back part

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!

To sew this blouse you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

In addition to the description, the colored lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

Start your sewing with the pockets. The pattern includes a template for this, which you can use to ensure the curves are nicely finished. Prepare the patch pockets for the front piece. After pressing all seam allowances by 1 cm, fold the opening of the top edge of the pocket under and over twice 2 cm (or according to the pattern), and topstitch it close to the edge.

Next, sew the bust darts. After accurately transferring the pattern and paying close attention to the markings, a simple, straight dart is sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, notch by notch, tapering nicely from the widest point to the tip (so the dart doesn't bunch up). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand to ensure you don't over-stitch or under-stitch, and the side seam ends nicely and straight.
To avoid having to tack the dart, sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Press the dart's contents upwards.

The notch on the pocket serves as a guide to where the front is. Pin the pocket to the right side of your fabric, wrong sides together, according to the markings in the pattern.

Then, slowly and carefully stitch it through, keeping close to the edge. To secure the corners of the opening, you can add approximately 1 cm of diagonal stitching from the corner toward the pocket. This is called the pocket bar. It can also be stitched as a bar with a tight zigzag stitch.

Close the side seams with a 1.5cm seam allowance and neaten them together. Press the seam allowances to the back.

Close the shoulders and neaten the seam allowances. Press these to the back.

Now, take the sleeves and close them with a 1.5cm seam allowance. Here, too, the seam allowances are then neatened together and ironed to the back.

The sleeve is inserted into the pattern according to the clippings, stitched together and the seam allowances are finished together.

The receipt is finished all around. Use the yellow, dashed line as a guide.

Then the previously neatened long edge of the facing is ironed over 0.5cm and stitched through with 0.2cm.

The facing is sewn, right sides together, to the front piece, along with the small lapel corner up to the notch. The top corner is trimmed away. For curves and corners, seam allowances are trimmed with scissors and then snipped or cut. This prevents the corners from becoming too thick when turned, and the seam allowances can be laid flat. It's especially important that the seam isn't cut. Therefore, we recommend sewing just before the point and away from it with a shorter stitch length. This guarantees a corner that won't fray as quickly after trimming.

Iron the seam allowances open. This method makes it easier to iron and turn the facing.

The upper and lower collars are turned together. To do this, place both collars right sides together and topstitch all the way around. For curves and corners, trim and snip or cut the seam allowances with scissors. This prevents the corners from becoming too thick when turned, and the seam allowances can be folded flat. It's especially important that the seam isn't cut. Therefore, we recommend sewing just before the point and away from it with a shorter stitch length. This ensures a corner that won't fray as quickly after trimming.

After turning the fabric inside out, you should shape the corners with a corner and edge shaper and then iron them. Depending on your sewing project, you can topstitch the outer edges. This flattens them and secures them.

The seam allowance on the inner collar (upper collar) is ironed 1cm between the notches.

The collar can be set aside for now. The hems are folded over twice, ironed, and topstitched. The facing is open, but has already been neatly ironed along the edges. This ensures a neat finish.

The sleeve hem is also folded over twice, ironed and stitched.

The outer collar is sewn to the prepared torso up to the notch.

The inner collar is stitched together with the facings. The seam allowances are then ironed open. On the front pieces and facing, the seam allowances are ironed open, and on the back piece, they are ironed upwards.

Now you can finally close the collar by grabbing the overlapping seam allowances and sewing them together. The short side of the facing is then stitched to the shoulder seam allowance.

The remaining open part of the collar is then closed with a seam close to the edge.

Secure the facing with a small bartack on the hem.

You'll find the buttonhole positions in your pattern. Copy these and sew your buttonholes.

The last step is to sew on the buttons.

Your DORIS is ready !

Next up are the DEVON pajama pants:

You will need fabric:

• 2x rear pants opposite
• 2x front trousers opposite
• 2x rear pocket
• 1x waistband
• 2x hem band
• 2x ribbons

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!

To sew these pants you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

In addition to the description, the colored lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

The opening for the ribbon needs to be covered with interfacing. Refer to the label on the pattern for guidance.

Prepare the patch pockets for the front piece. After pressing all seam allowances by 1 cm, fold the opening of the top edge of the pocket in and out 2 x 2 cm (or according to the pattern).

… and stitched close to the edge.

Pin the pocket to the right side of your fabric according to the markings in the pattern.

Then, slowly and carefully stitch it through, keeping close to the edge. To secure the corners of the opening, you can add approximately 1 cm of diagonal stitching from the corner toward the pocket. This is called the pocket bar. It can also be stitched as a bar with a tight zigzag stitch.

Once all trouser legs are prepared with pockets, yoke, etc., all cut edges (see yellow line in the photo) can be finished.

Now the trouser legs can be sewn together. Take the front and back trouser legs and place them on top of each other, right sides together. Close the side seams of the front and back trousers with a 1.5cm seam allowance. Work on both legs and then press the seam allowances open.

The inseams are sewn together with a 1.5cm seam allowance. Don't be surprised if the distance between the seat and the knee of the back of the pants is slightly shorter than that of the front. Stretch this section slightly to make it fit. This cutting trick ensures a better fit. The finished seam allowances are pressed open.

Next, you can close the crotch seam. To do this, turn one trouser leg right side out. Tuck this trouser leg into the other, not turned leg. This way, the crotch seams line up nicely, and you can easily sew them together up to 1 cm above the bottom edge of the upper leg. Make sure the inseam seams line up exactly. Press the finished seam allowances apart at the center back and center front, about 10-15 cm apart.

Now let's turn our attention to the hem's edges, the so-called facings. Both are finished in the same way: Close them in a 1cm circle and press the seam allowances open.

Then iron it in half and pin it to the inside leg seam of the prepared trousers.

The facings are sewn, right sides together, to the trouser legs and the seam allowances are neatened together.

Finally, the seam allowance is ironed upwards and the facing is ironed downwards.

Next, we'll work on the waistband of your new pajama pants, but first, let's prepare the two ribbons for it. To do this, fold the seam allowances inward, press everything in half, and topstitch it close to the edge or using a quilting foot.

The waistband is sewn together in a 1cm round, the seam allowances are ironed open…

… and ironed the entire waistband in half at the fold.

The buttonholes for the ties are made before the elastic is stitched on. Cut an elastic band to the length and width specified in the pattern. The waistband seam is at the center back.

Sew the elastic and the two prepared ribbons to the side seam and bartack them securely. Use the notches as a guide. Pull both ribbons through the designated buttonholes.

A large seam will further secure the waistband. Be careful not to accidentally sew the elastic along with it.

Finally, the waistband is sewn to the prepared trousers with a 1cm seam allowance, neatened together and ironed flat downwards.

Your DEVON is ready!

If you're stuck or have any questions, please email us at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We'll respond as quickly as possible. 

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your Schnittmuster-Berlin team.