SEWING INSTRUCTIONS PAJAMA “DORIS-DEVON”

The Doris-Devon pajamas are a classic two-piece set consisting of a long-sleeved top with a simple blouse collar, buttoned down the center front and comfortable pants with an elastic band. The pajamas are comfortable but not oversized. Just perfect for feeling good.

Length at center back = 70-77cm

side length = 100 cm

In this pattern, Doris-Devon was sewn from a soft viscose.

Required material:

We recommend a flowing cotton, viscose or silk.

Sizes 34-38	outer fabric	3.10 m	140cm wide
Sizes 40-44	outer fabric	3.80 m	140cm wide
Sizes 46-50	outer fabric	4.40 m	140cm wide
Sizes 34-50	inlay	1.00 m	90 cm wide
Sizes 34-50	rubber band	0.60 m	2 cm wide
Sizes 34-50	Buttons	6 pieces	12mm diameter

cutting:

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the middle so that you can lay the back part and upper/lower collar in the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing pattern pieces here.

We start with the pajama blouse DORIS:

You need from fabric:

• 2x front part in opposite directions
• 1x back part in break
• 2x bag opposite
• 2x sleeves in opposite directions

also with insert:

• 2x receipt in front of the same
• 1x upper collar in break
• 1x under-collar in break / sloping grain

also with band:

• 2x neckline front part
• 1x neckline back part

Sewing instructions:

To sew this blouse you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing!

Begin your sewing with the pockets. There is a pattern for this, which you can use so that the curve is nicely worked out. Prepare the patch pockets for the front piece. After you have ironed all the seam allowances with 1cm, the opening of the upper edge of the bag is folded 2x 2cm (or according to the pattern) and turned over, just about the edge is stitched.

It continues with the sewing of the bust darts. A simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, snap by snap, tapering from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart does not bag) on ​​the wrong side of the fabric, following the exact transfer of the pattern and carefully observing the marking. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and finish the side seam nicely straight.
So that you don't have to bartack at the top, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. You iron the dart content upwards.

The snap on the pocket serves as a guide to what's ahead. You pin the bag on the right side of the fabric with pins according to the markings in the pattern, left sides facing.

And stitches them slowly and carefully through just under the edge. To secure the corners of the opening, you can make a 1cm diagonal stitch from the corner towards the pocket. This is the so-called pocket latch. Can also be processed as a bar with a dense zigzag stitch.

The side seams are closed with 1.5 cm and neatened together. Press the seam allowances backwards.

The shoulders are closed and the seam allowances are neatened together. Iron these backwards.

Take the sleeves and close them with a 1.5cm seam allowance. Here, too, the seam allowances are trimmed together and ironed to the back.

According to the snaps, the sleeve is inserted in the cut, stitched together and the seam allowances neatened together.

The slip is trimmed all around. Use the yellow dashed line as a guide.

Then the previously trimmed long edge of the slip is ironed over by 0.5cm and stitched through with 0.2cm.

The slip is sewn to the front part, right sides together, as well as the small lapel corner up to the snap. The top corner is cut off. For curves and corners, seam allowances are shortened with scissors and cut or cut off. The corners do not become too thick when turning and the seam allowances can be laid flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the point and from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that won't fray as quickly after trimming.

Iron the seam allowances apart. This method makes ironing and overturning the slip easier.

The upper and lower collars are folded together. Place both collars right sides together and topstitch all around. For curves and corners, seam allowances are shortened with scissors and cut or cut off. The corners do not become too thick when turning and the seam allowances can be laid flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the point and from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that won't fray as quickly after trimming.

After turning, you should shape the corners with a corner and edge shaper and then iron them out. Depending on your sewing project, you can topstitch the outside edges, this will flatten them nicely and secure them.

The seam allowance on the inner collar (upper collar) is ironed over 1cm between the snaps.

The collar can be put aside for the time being. The hems are turned in and out twice, ironed and topstitched. The receipt is open, but has already been neatly ironed to the edge. So everything will be nice and clean in the end.

The sleeve hem is also folded in and out twice, ironed and topstitched.

The outer collar is sewn to the prepared torso up to the snap.

The inner collar is stitched together with the facings. Then the seam allowances are ironed apart. The seam allowances are ironed apart on the front pieces and lining, and upwards on the back piece.

Now the collar can be finally closed by grabbing the overlapping seam allowances and sewing them together. The short side of the facing is then stitched to the seam allowance of the shoulder.

Then the piece of the collar that is still open is closed with a seam close to the edge.

Secure the slip with a small tab on the hem.

You can find the buttonhole positions in your pattern. Transfer this to yourself and poke your buttonholes.

The last step is to sew on the buttons.

Your DORIS is ready !

It continues with the pajama bottoms DEVON:

You need from fabric:

• 2x hind trousers in opposite directions
• 2x front trousers in opposite directions
• 2x pockets on the back
• 1x waistband
• 2x hem panel
• 2x ribbons

Sewing instructions:

To sew these pants you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing!

The opening for the ribbon must be covered with an insert. Orient yourself to the labeling on the cut.

Prepare the patch pockets for the front piece. After you have ironed all seam allowances with 1cm, the opening of the upper edge of the bag is 2x 2cm (or according to the pattern) and turned over,...

... and just a stitched edge .

You pin the pocket on your right side of the fabric with pins according to the markings in the pattern.

And stitches them slowly and carefully through just under the edge. To secure the corners of the opening, you can make a 1cm diagonal stitch from the corner towards the pocket. This is the so-called pocket latch. Can also be processed as a bar with a dense zigzag stitch.

As soon as all trouser legs have been prepared with pockets, yokes, etc., all raw edges (see yellow line in the photo) can be trimmed.

Now the pant legs can be sewn together. Take the front and back pant leg and place them on top of each other, right sides together. Close the side seams of the front and back trousers with a 1.5 cm seam allowance. Work both legs and then press open the seam allowances.

The inner leg seams are sewn together with 1.5 cm . Don't be surprised if the distance between the buttocks and the knees is slightly shorter on the back pant than on the front pant. Stretch this line a bit so it fits. This cutting trick ensures a better fit of the pants. The trimmed seam allowances are ironed apart.

Next you can close the crotch seam. To do this, turn one trouser leg right side out, tuck this trouser leg into the other leg that is not turned, so the crotch seam lies nicely straight on top of each other and you can sew them together up to 1cm above the lower edge of the top step. Make sure that the inner leg seams line up exactly. The finished seam allowances are ironed about 10-15 cm apart at the center back and center front.

Let's now turn to the finishes at the hem, the so-called panels. Both are processed in the same way. Close with 1cm to a round and iron open the seam allowances.

Then iron in half in the fold and pin the seam to the inner leg seam of the prepared trousers.

The panels are sewn to the trouser legs, right sides facing, and the seam allowances are neatened together.

Finally, the seam allowance is ironed upwards and the facings downwards.

We continue with the waistband of your new pajama pants, but before that we prepare the two ribbons for it. To do this, the seam allowances are turned inwards, everything is ironed in half and stitched just under the edge or the width of a quilting foot.

The waistband is sewn together as a 1cm round, the seam allowances ironed apart...

... and ironed the entire waistband in half in the fold.

The buttonholes for the ties are punched before the elastic is stitched on. Cut an elastic to the length and width indicated on the pattern. The waistband seam is in the center back.

The elastic and the two prepared ribbons are sewn to the side seam and locked well. Use the snaps for orientation. Pull your two ribbons through the buttonholes provided.

A seam with a large stitch additionally secures the waistband. Be careful not to accidentally sew on the elastic.

Finally, the waistband is sewn to the prepared trousers with a 1cm seam allowance, trimmed together and ironed flat at the bottom.

Your DEVON is ready!

If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible.

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!

Sincerely, your Dagmar and Ellen.