Sewing instructions for pajama pants Dean

Level : easy - for beginners


material

We recommend soft cotton, flannel, satin

Sizes 44-50

  • Outer fabric 2.10m x 140cm wide
  • Elastic band 0.85m 3.5cm wide

Sizes 52-58

  • Outer fabric 2.50m x 140cm wide
  • Elastic band 1.05m 3.5cm wide

Cut:

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Place the fabric right side up. Align the selvedges parallel to the center. All pattern pieces should be lying with the printed side facing up. Always align the grainline arrow in the same direction on all pieces, parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm snip with scissors or using chalk, and mark the dart ends. Snip the seam allowance on the fold, as this is always the center point. Markings define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as indicated by the marking notches!

You will need the following fabric:

  • 2x front trousers, mirror images
  • 2x back pants, mirror images
  • 2x binding tape

Sewing instructions:

To sew these trousers you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch of your sewing machine to finish the cut edges.

The colored lines in the pictures show you, in addition to the description, where to sew a seam or glue something.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1 cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as indicated by the marking notches!

Before you start sewing, use a small rectangle to mark the buttonhole position on the wrong side of the fabric; this will make the buttonhole look nicer and hold better.

Draw the buttonhole on the right side of the fabric, either with chalk that disappears after ironing or with a suitable pen.

The trouser hem is folded over twice by 2cm. Stitch the first fold line at 2cm; this will make it easy to fold the hem over twice.

Next, we'll work on the waistband. Stitch the top edge 1cm in and then iron the edge over 1cm along this stitching line.

You're wondering why you need to step through beforehand?

The edge is slightly angled and stretches slightly during further processing. This cannot happen with the quilted line.

Now fold the top edge over again by 4cm and iron the folded edge flat. That will be your cuff :)

Next, we'll work on the ties. Iron the tie in half. Then fold both outer edges inwards to the previously ironed fold.

You can now iron both edges and then place them on top of each other, or you can do it in one step, depending on your dexterity.

Fold one end of the ribbon over by 1 cm at the front edge to ensure a neat finish. Now topstitch the ribbon all the way around, close to the edge.

Now punch your buttonhole. Why is it called that? I don't know :)

You have two options for sewing the side seam and the inseam together.

Option 1: Sew the side seam and inseam as usual, ensuring a seam width of 1.5 cm. Finish the raw edges together and press them towards the front. You can now topstitch the already pressed hem.

Option 2: Right-left seams! Place the side seams of the front and back pants wrong sides together and sew the seam with a 0.5cm seam allowance. If your fabric frays like ours, trim the frayed edges so they don't stick out of your final seam. For your reference, the seam is sewn on the right side of the fabric, i.e., on the outside.

Now fold the trouser legs together and sew the seam with a 1cm seam allowance. Your right/left seam is finished :)

Repeat the same process along the inseam. Then iron both sides. You can now stitch the already ironed hem.

Now attach your tie to the inside, on the side seam. The tie should be centered in the tunnel that you will later topstitch. Use the pattern as a guide.

Pull the ribbon through the buttonhole to the right side.

Now the trousers are sewn together. Overlock the crotch seam of both trouser legs. Then turn one trouser leg right side out and the other wrong side out. Now insert the trouser leg with the right side of the fabric facing out into the trouser leg with the right side facing in and pin the crotch seam together. Topstitch all around with a 1cm seam allowance. Press the seam open, starting from the waistband edge up to the notch mark. Leave the remaining seam allowance in the curve as is.

Do you love the right/left side seam? Then you can work the crotch seam in the same way as described above. However, the crotch seam is only 1 cm wide, so you need to topstitch it once at 0.3 cm and once at 0.7 cm. Good luck!

Next, we'll work on the waistband. Fold the already ironed waistband over along the fold line and stitch it in place at 4 cm. Make sure the drawstring is centered and not stitched down.

Leave a 4cm wide opening next to the center back seam, through which the elastic will be threaded. Use a large safety pin to help with this.

Once the elastic is inserted, place both ends of the elastic together and stitch them in place. Now the opening at the waistband can be closed.

Now all that's left is to stitch the casing for the drawstring all the way around. That's another challenge. You have to pull the elastic band taut while sewing so that the waistband lies flat...and then you also have to make sure that you don't accidentally stitch the drawstring to the front of the pants. The casing width is marked on the pattern.

Your DEAN is finished !

If you get stuck or have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will reply as soon as possible. 

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your Schnittmuster-Berlin team.

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