In the future, bad weather will no longer be an excuse, with our raincoat Sabete you are well prepared for walks or hiking trips even in the rain. If the dark clouds clear on the way, you can fold Sabete and stow it in the back pocket and wear it like a cross-shoulder bag. The 2-way zipper in the center front, patch pockets with flaps and the large back pocket for storing the coat are the special details of Sabete.
Center Back Length = 103 - 107 cm
Sabete was sewn from a solid woven fabric in this pattern.
We recommend a water-repellent or rubberized outdoor fabric.
|1.0 - 1.15m
|3 cm wide
|3 cm wide
Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the middle so that you can lay the back part and hood in the fold at the front. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.
You need from fabric:
- 1x back part in break
- 2x front part in opposite directions
- 2x hood in front rupture
- 2x hood at the back in opposite directions
- 1x back pocket
- 2x pocket flap in opposite directions
- 2x pocket flaps inside in opposite directions
- 2x front pocket in opposite directions
- 2x sleeves back opposite
- 2x sleeves in front in opposite directions
- 2x sleeve facing in opposite directions
You will need a sewing machine to sew this coat.
In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide! Happy sewing!
We start with the pocket flaps of our new coat. The pocket flap on the outside is placed, right sides together, on the pocket flap on the inside and sewn all around.
For curves and corners, seam allowances are shortened with scissors and cut or cut off. The corners do not become too thick when turning and the seam allowances can be laid flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the point and from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that won't fray as quickly after trimming.
After turning, you should shape the corners with a corner and edge shaper. Depending on your sewing project, you can topstitch the outside edges, this will flatten them nicely and secure them. We stitched everything a foot wide.
The upper edges of the front pocket are folded in and out twice and the edges are just understitched. Overlock the other three edges of the pockets with your serger and iron them inwards by 1cm.
We continue with the sleeves of our new coat. To do this, take the pieces of the front and back sleeves and place them, right sides together, on top of each other and sew the shoulder seams together. You neaten the seam allowances together. We then ironed the seam allowance into the front sleeve and topstitched it with a seam the width of a quilting foot.
Sew the sleeve bands together, right sides facing, and neaten the open edges. We ironed the seam allowance into the sleeve facing and topstitched it with a seam the width of a quilting foot.
The inner sleeve seam is placed right sides together and sewn together. Pay attention to the seam allowances in the pattern. Sew the raw edges and press the seam allowance into the back sleeve.
Finally, iron the sleeve hem twice and stitch it through.
We continue with the pocket for the back piece. Overcast one of the short edges (marked here in green) and iron it over by 1cm. Iron the other three edges twice by 0.5 cm...
and stitch it in place with the zipper on the finished edge.
Take the back piece and place the prepared back pocket on your fabric as shown on the pattern. Now sew the top edge to the back piece.
Flip the pockets up and position the trimmed elastics, right sides together, at the mark on the cut. Stitch these.
They are then folded back and stitched through again.
Now the elastics are tight and in the right position and the bag can be fastened to the back part all around, just under the edge. The other side of the zipper is also attached to the back part with a seam.
We continue with the bust darts in the front parts. A simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, snap by snap, tapering from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart does not bag) on the wrong side of the fabric, following the exact transfer of the pattern and carefully observing the marking. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and finish the side seam nicely straight. So that you don't have to bartack at the top, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Lay the dart content up.
And this is what your finished dart looks like.
The prepared pocket flaps are placed, right sides together, in the position in the front part and sewn on with 1cm. You do the same with the bag, except that this narrow edge is stitched on.
The flap is then stitched down and secured with an additional seam.
The front parts are prepared and can be sewn together with the back part, right sides together, at the side seams. The edges are trimmed again and ironed to the back.
Now you can also stitch the previously prepared sleeves, right sides together, into the body part and neaten them.
Next up is the hood. Sew them together, right sides together, and neaten the edge.
Just punch the eyelets into the outer hood according to the marking. Proceed as follows: First, iron a little insert from the left onto the spot. Then punch a correspondingly sized hole for the matching "eyelets with washers" with a punch pliers or the punch included in the set and a hammer.
It looks like this from the right side.
Now place the front hood part, right sides together, on the back hood part and sew both together.
Now take your prepared outer hood and place it, right sides together, on your neckline on the body part. Sew both layers together.
Neaten the front edge, then you can process your zipper in the front part. Use the ripper markings on the pattern as a guide, first sew the ripper to the seam allowance right sides together so that the ripper teeth are visible later. This is how it all looks in detail.
Then iron the edges of the inner part of the front hood by 1 cm.
Then sew this part right sides together onto your hood.
Before we can close the hood, we still have to enclose the seam allowance of the hood and neckline. Cut a 4cm wide bias strip out of your fabric. Sew this to the seam allowance just past the front raglan. Iron this band three times and stitch it through from the other side.
Pin the receipt in place with pins. The tunnel of the hood is stitched through at an even distance to the front edge. You can insert the rubber cord beforehand, so you don't have to pull it through afterwards. Now you can stitch the hood facing to the hood seam from the outside. Stitch the lower edge, which is still open, from the outside in the shadow of the seam. This is what it looks like from the left.
Just three more steps and you're done. Now stitch the zipper 0.5 cm wide at the front edges from the right. Then iron the hem twice and sew it in place.
Finally, attach the buckles to your carrying straps on the back pocket.
Your SABETE is ready !
If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to firstname.lastname@example.org. We will answer you as soon as possible.
Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!
Sincerely yours, Dagmar and Ellen.
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