Sewing instructions raglan blouse Valerie

The Valerie blouse pattern is for a breezy blouse with a wide, flared hem. The open slit at the center back, fastened with three eyelets and three buttons, allows access to the high, slightly gathered stand-up collar.

Length at the back center = 66 - 70 cm

Valerie was sewn from a viscose woven fabric in this tutorial.

→ To the sewing pattern “Valerie”

Materials needed:

We recommend a flowing fabric such as silk, viscose or polyester.

Sleeveless, sizes 34-42

• Outer fabric 1.20m (140cm wide)
• Buttons 3 x 8mm diameter

Sizes 44-50

• Outer fabric 1.30m (140cm wide)
• Buttons 3 x 8mm diameter

Sizes 34-50

• Insert 0.60 m 90 cm wide

with sleeves, sizes 34-42

• Outer fabric 1.70m (140cm wide)
• Buttons 3 x 8mm diameter

Sizes 44-50

• Outer fabric 1.80m (140cm wide)
• Buttons 3 x 8mm diameter

Sizes 34-50

• Insert 0.60 m 90 cm wide

Cut:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as indicated by the marking notches!

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interfacing. Place the fabric right side up. Align the selvedges parallel to the center so you can place the front piece and facing on the fold. All pattern pieces should be placed with the printed side facing up. Always align the grainline arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm snip with scissors or using chalk. Snip the seam allowance on the fold, as this is always the center point. Markings define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It's best to roughly cut out all outer fabric pieces that will be fully interfaced first. After you've secured the interfacing, cut them out precisely. There's also a video here about gluing and securing pattern pieces.

You will need the following fabric:

• 1x front part in breakage
• 2x back piece, mirror image
• 1x eyelet in slanted grain (3 pieces)
• 2x front sleeve, mirrored
• 2x back sleeve, mirror image

also with insert:

• 1x receipt at the front of the break
• 2x receipts, reverse side facing out

also with shaping tape:

• 2x neckhole facing at the back
• 1x neckhole facing front

Sewing instructions:

Attention: Instructions for the sleeveless version can be found at the very bottom as an addendum.

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as indicated by the marking notches!

To sew this blouse you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch of your sewing machine to finish the cut edges.

The colored lines in the pictures show you, in addition to the description, where to sew a seam or glue something.

When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1 cm wide!

Have fun sewing!

Take both back pieces and finish the back center seam from the hem to 1cm above the first notch.

Sew the back center seam up to the notch, right sides together. The open area will later become the slit with the eyelets and buttons for opening the blouse. Press the seam allowances open.

Also iron the hem of the back pieces twice according to the pattern.

Prepare the eyelets by stitching the ribbon right sides together down the middle and pulling it through with a needle and thread.

Here we have a video in which Dagmar explains how to process an eyelet.

Divide the eyelet tape into three equal lengths and fix it with a stitch the width of a quilting foot at the notches in the back center.

Here you can see a close-up photo of the sewn eyelets.

Attach the back facings by placing both right sides together and stitching up to the notch. Press the seam allowances open.

Next, neaten the bottom cut edge of the back facings.

Sew the back center of the facing to the back center of the back piece, right sides together.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the processed slit on the left side of the body.

Also, place the right side of the body right sides together.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the processed slit on the right side of the body.

Iron the sewn-on facing inwards and secure the facing at the very bottom of the seam allowances of the back piece with a basting stitch.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the processed slot with the finished eyelets.

Iron the hem of the front piece twice according to the pattern.

Sew the side seams of the front and back pieces together, right sides facing, finish the seam allowances together and then press them towards the back.

Stitch the ironed hem close to the edge all the way around.

To finish the upper arm seam, place the front sleeve on top of the back sleeve, right sides together, and sew them. Finish the seam allowances together and press them towards the back.

Iron the hem of the sleeves twice according to the pattern.

An elastic band is incorporated above the sleeve hem. Cut the elastic band to the correct length according to the pattern and stitch it to the sleeve from the wrong side of the fabric, stretching it as you go.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the elastic band used in the sleeves.

Sew the inner arm seam right sides together, finish the seam allowances together and then iron them towards the back.

Stitch the ironed hem of the sleeves close to the edge all the way around.

The sleeves are finished and can be sewn into the armhole, right sides together. Finish the seam allowances together.

Neaten the bottom cut edge of the front facing.

Stitch the front facing to the back facings, right sides together. Press the seam allowances open.

The neckline of the blouse is finished with the facings, right sides together. Slightly clip the seam allowances at the curves so the curve lies flat.

Next, the seam allowances are topstitched flat as far as you can reach. This method not only makes the final pressing easier but also ensures that the facing, if not topstitched separately, automatically folds inwards and doesn't roll out. Only the facing is topstitched close to the edge of the seam allowances. The topstitching line is then only visible from the wrong side of the fabric, not from the right side.

Now let's move on to the pleats in the front piece. These are worked together with the facing, which provides a bit more structure and stability. So, sew a basting stitch at the marking on the pattern and gather it to the correct length. Knot the ends together.

Here's a video about wrinkles in general for you.

Here you can see the finished, gathered front piece.

Secure the facings to the seam allowances of the blouse's shoulder seam with a basting stitch.

Finally, sew on three small buttons.

Your VALERIE is finished!

If you get stuck or have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will reply as soon as possible.

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece!

Sleeveless version

Here are the instructions for finishing the armhole.

Attention, this section only covers the armhole and yoke! All other steps are as described above.

On average, you will find 3 pattern pieces that are specifically made for this variation.

You will need the following fabric:

• 2x front yoke (mirror image)
• 2x back part matching
• 2x bias strips (if you want to make your life a little easier when sewing, cut the bias strips 4cm wide).

Instead of the sleeve, sew the front yoke to the front piece, right sides together, and do the same with the back piece. Finish the seam allowance together and press it into the yoke.

Now you close the shoulder seam, neaten the seam allowance together and iron the seam allowance forward.

The bias strips are ironed in half lengthwise, wrong sides together.

Now, starting at the side seam, sew the bias strip right sides together to the armhole and press the seam allowance into the armhole.

The strip is folded completely inwards and stitched a presser foot's width apart. Finally, close the side seam, and the summer blouse is finished.