Level : Professional - for experienced
Length of the front neck mirror point: 123-129 cm
Required material:
We recommend an opaque and flowing fabric such as viscose, poplin, cotton, linen blend, lyocell, chambray or batiste .
Fabric consumption for one fabric type:
| Sizes 34-42 | Outer fabric | 3.10m | 140cm wide |
| inlay | 0.30m | 90cm wide |
| Sizes 44-46 | Outer fabric | 4.00m | 140cm wide |
| inlay | 0.30m | 90cm wide |
| Buttons | 3 pieces | 1.5cm diameter |
Fabric consumption for two types of fabric:
| Sizes 34-42 | Outer fabric | 2.20m | 140cm wide |
| Contrast fabric | 0.90m | 90cm wide | |
| inlay | 0.30m | 90cm wide |
| Sizes 44-46 | Outer fabric | 2.70m | 140cm wide |
| Contrast fabric | 1.80m | 90cm wide | |
| inlay | 0.30m | 90cm wide |
| Buttons | 3 pieces | 1.5cm diameter |
In this tutorial, Avignon was sewn from a flowing viscose.
Cutting:
Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!
Cut the pattern pieces out of your outer fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric with the right side facing up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the middle so that you can lay the back piece, collar stand, under and upper collar on the fold. The pattern pieces should all be laid with the writing facing up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm long cut with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Notch the seam allowance on the fold of the fabric because this is always a middle. Markings define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to cut all outer fabric pieces that are to be completely covered with interlining roughly first. After you have secured the interlining, cut it out precisely. There is also a video here about gluing and securing pattern pieces.
You will need fabric:
- 1x skirt in the front (here the plain fabric)
- 1x skirt at the back in the fold
- 2x bag opposite
- 1x front part top in the fracture
- 1x back part at the top of the fold
- 2x sleeves opposite each other at the front
- 2x sleeves at the back opposite
- 2x bias binding armhole front
- 2x bias tape armhole back
- 1x bias tape neck hole
also with insert:
- 4x tie band/ waistband at the front (if the fabric is very soft, cover the entire fabric with interlining, if the fabric is firmer, only in the area marked on the pattern piece)
- 2x waistband at the back
Sewing instructions:
Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked!
To sew this dress you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.
In addition to the description, the colored lines on the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!
To warm up, we'll start off very simply.
Take the front part of the skirt, fold the side edges 2x1cm and stitch them down, then iron the hem 1x 1cm and 1x 2cm and stitch it down as well.
Do exactly the same with the back part of the skirt, except that the edges there are also folded over 1x 1cm and 1x 2cm, like the hem.
The bags are now being prepared.
The sides and the bottom of the bag are neatened. Then the top edge is ironed 1x1cm and 1x 2cm. Now turn the top corners, turn them right side out and stitch the top edge at 2cm.
The sides and the bottom of the pocket are ironed 1cm and stitched onto the back of the skirt according to the cutting markings.... To avoid it becoming a hidden object picture, I used my hand as a photo model ;-)
Finally, for the skirt parts, you pull so-called edging threads into the upper edge. They are an aid to achieving an even gathering. To do this, select the largest stitch setting on your sewing machine. You must not lock at the beginning and end of the auxiliary seams, but leave about 10cm of thread each. You sew 2 edging seams at a distance of about 1cm, namely at 0.5cm and 1.5cm from the cut edge, so that the later attachment seam runs exactly between the two auxiliary seams. Pay attention to the pattern markings to show in which area the gathering should take place.
Now put the skirt pieces aside for now; we'll do the gathering later.
You take the two sleeve pieces and neaten the rounded hem, then stitch it 0.7cm.
Now place the front sleeve on the back sleeve as per the cutting instructions and secure it with a stitch. The photo is the right sleeve.
The sleeves are now also put to the side.
Now sew all the darts in the front and back pieces.
Next, sew the bias strip right sides together to the neck hole and iron the seam allowance into the top. Tip: if you have a firmer fabric, do NOT sew the bias strip in so that it is pulled tight.
The right shoulder is closed right sides together, the seam allowance is neatened together and ironed forward.
Now fold the bias strip inwards and stitch through from the left, the width of your foot.
Now sew the front armhole bias stripe on the shoulder right sides together to the back armhole bias stripe and iron the seam allowance apart.
Then iron the entire strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together.
For the sleeveless version, do exactly the same as for the neckline.
You stitch the bias strip right sides together along the entire armhole, iron it into the top and stitch through from the left, the width of the foot.
Version WITH sleeves:
Before you sew on the bias strip, attach the sleeve right sides together with a stitch in the armhole. Pay attention to the notches, which show you exactly where the sleeve should go from to where.
Now continue as described above for the sleeveless version, only that the sleeve is in between.
Next we put all the pieces together.
You place the front waistband right sides together and slide the front piece in between. Pay attention to the notches in the waistband, which show you exactly where the front piece goes from to where! Then you trim the corners, turn the waistband right side out and iron it flat.
Do the same for the back: First, sew the long straps together right sides together in the middle back and iron the seam allowance apart, then place them right sides together and slide the back in between.
Here you can almost sew around the ribbon, just leave the opening where the back skirt will go.
Here's a tip on how to turn the tie: Take a wooden spoon, put one end of the tie over it and push it until you reach the opening.
Now all you have to do is sew the skirt pieces on and you're done.
You take the front skirt and pin it to the inside waistband with the snaps, left sides together. Now you carefully pull the two top threads on one side and push the fabric together until you have reached the seam width of the waistband. You can now distribute the gathers evenly, then sew both together and pull the threads out again.
The seam allowance is ironed into the waistband, the outer waistband is folded in 1cm and the entire waistband can be stitched all the way around. Since we're here, you can make the buttonhole and sew on the buttons.
Do the same with the back part of the skirt, except that the "waistband" is longer, so you don't need a buttonhole here ;-)
Your AVIGNON is ready
If you don't know what to do or if you have any questions, please send us an email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as quickly as possible.
Have lots of fun with your new designer piece!
Best regards, your Schnittmuster-Berlin team.
