SEWING INSTRUCTIONS SUMMER BLOUSE “INA”

Sewing instructions:

To sew this blouse you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing!

Sizes 42-50 have a bust dart, please sew this according to the pattern. A simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, snap by snap, tapering from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart does not bag) on ​​the wrong side of the fabric, following the exact transfer of the pattern and carefully observing the marking. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and finish the side seam nicely straight.

So that you don't have to bartack at the top, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. You iron the dart content upwards.

First, according to the markings on the pattern, gather the edges of the front and back pieces. For this you sew two auxiliary seams with a large stitch length (3.5-4). You do not lock these, but let the thread protrude at the beginning and end. Knot one end and pull the other end until the stretch is as long as the back yoke. Distribute the crimp evenly. You should not work with the two auxiliary seams with silk and sensitive fabrics, but only with one auxiliary seam that will not be visible later in the seam allowance. Here is also a video for you how to curl.

Do the same in the front part at the shoulder seams.

Iron the long piping strip, wrong sides together, in half in the fold and sew it to the back part with an auxiliary seam the width of a quilting foot. You can do the same with the piping strips for the front piece.

The pattern piece for the upper back is called the yoke. The yoke often ends at the shoulder seam, but can also be brought forward a little. Fits can be straight, slanted or pointed. If you look at a piece of clothing from the inside, you will see that the yoke is doubled, i.e. a yoke is counter-sewn from the inside. The seams are so nicely hidden and are clean.

First you pin the yoke parts to the back part with pins. The back part is enclosed by the yokes. Place the yoke, which will be on the outside, right sides together. Place the inner yoke with the right side on the left side of the back piece.

The clip in the center back allows you to stack all pattern pieces well. Starting from the center back, use pins to stick left and right to the end of the seam.

These three layers are now sewn together with a 1cm seam allowance, so that the first seam is covered.

You fold the outer yoke up and iron the seam nicely. The next step is to connect the yoke to the front piece in the shoulder area. First sew only the outer yoke with the respective front parts, right sides together, and iron the seam allowances to the back.

The inner yoke is folded to the shoulder seam. Then you crawl from the open neckline into the shoulder seam, grab the 3 seam allowances. Sew these three layers together. The outer yoke is right sides together on the front piece and the inner yoke is right sides together on the front piece.

Then you can simply pull out the contents and your yoke is beautifully finished. The seam allowances point backwards, i.e. into the yoke, and lie neatly between the inner and outer yokes.

Iron the whole thing flat, being careful not to flatten the curl.

To continue working, we stapled the layers together at the neckline and armholes with a large stitch. So nothing moves anymore.

It continues with the facing for the neckline, where you iron around the outer edge by 1 cm.

Lay the facing, right sides together, on the front neckline and sew it in place.

For lace, seam allowances are cut in with scissors. The seam allowances can be laid flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the point and from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a tip that does not fray so quickly after trimming.

The seam allowances are then flat-stitched. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also means that the facing automatically lies inwards and does not roll out if it is not topstitched separately. Only the facing is stitched to the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side. Turn the receipt inside out, wrong sides together, and pin for further processing.

Finally, stitch the slip tightly to the outer fabric edge.

Next up is the collar. Place both collar pieces, right sides together, on top of each other and sew them together. Then cut away the seam allowances and snap them into the curve.

Turn the collar inside out and iron the seam allowance of the inner collar by 1cm.

Next, sew the raw edge of the outer collar 1cm, right sides together, to the neckline. Pay attention to the snaps in the cut.

Now place the collars on top of each other and stitch the inner edge tightly from the outside with a seam.

Neaten the side seams one by one and sew them together with 1.5 cm up to the notch. Then iron the hem twice and sew it tight at the edge.

Finally, sew the armhole facings together in the round, right sides together, iron the seam allowances apart and iron them, left sides together, in the fold. Sew the armhole panels, right sides together, to the armholes. Pay attention to the snaps in the cut. Overcast the seam allowances and iron them inwards.

Your INA is ready!

If you don't know what to do or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible.

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!

Sincerely, your Dagmar and Ellen.