An unusual pattern construction is the basis for this beautiful beach dress . The pointed hem is created by the square pattern. You can also cut the hem rounded with the help of a drawn line. The deep neckline at the front and open back are perfect for hot summer days.
Length from strap attachment to hem = 90 cm
Sarah was sewn from jersey in this pattern.
Required material:
We recommend a flowing jersey. Remember to use fully colored fabric, not eg printed fabric. Otherwise, a white side can be seen from the outside due to the different lengths of the hem.
| Size 34-42 | Outer fabric uni | 1.90 m | 140cm wide |
cutting:
Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric . The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk. Drill holes define positions of dart ends, pocket positions or position of the tunnel on the wrong side of the fabric. Transfer these with either chalk or pins. 
You need from fabric:
- 2x front/back part in opposite directions
- 2x carrier
- 1x tunnel
- 1x waist band
Sewing instructions:
To sew this dress you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.
Be sure to use a jersey needle and use a stretch stitch, i.e. if you are sewing with a home sewing machine you should use either a zigzag stitch or the tripartite elastic stitch and then all seam allowances again with a zigzag stitch or another appropriate stitch neaten so they don't fray. If you use a seam zipper, you also need the right presser foot for your sewing machine. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing! 
The first thing to do is trim the raw edges on the right side of the fabric. Begin at the bottom of the slit beginning at the center front, follow the yellow line as drawn in the photo, and end with the slit beginning at the center back. Process both parts and pay attention to the right and left side of the fabric. If you don't want the tips of the rectangle to be so pointed, you can also round them off as shown in the section. 
After everything has been cleaned properly, the back and front slit can now be processed. For this, the cut edge is ironed twice (each 1cm). Make sure that the back slit is unironed first, so that the front edge can then be bordered. This is a small opening for our porters later. 
Now both the front and the center back are closed with 1cm and the seam allowances are ironed apart. 
Only now are the ironed slits stitched all around with a tight edge. You should start and end at the center back. The second photo shows you how the front and back should look the same so that everything looks clean. 
Both straps are stitched through with a seam allowance of 1 cm right sides together and then pulled through. (There is also a video about the processing of a continuous roll here.) 
A small opening remained when the front and back slits were topstitched with a tight edge. We now use this to push in our rolled-up carrier and fix it all around with a rectangle. The waist band is also stitched through with a seam allowance of 1.5 cm right sides together and then pulled through. (There is also a video about the processing of a continuous roll here.) 
The cut edges of the tunnel on the right and left outside are trimmed, ironed 2cm and stitched through with 1.5cm. 
Then the long sides of the tunnel can now be ironed 1cm each. 
The tunnel cannot be seen from the outside, which means it was stitched on from the inside, i.e. the left side of the fabric. The ironed tunnel is now pinned to our drill hole markings (from the inside) and stitched through just under the edge. It ends with the rear edge as shown in the photo. Pay attention to the position of the tunnel marked in the cut by two notches or measure the distance in your cut with a tape measure, because the notches have disappeared from the previous processing. Because the fabric of the tunnel was cut straight and not diagonally, the lower section has to be stretched out a little while sewing and the upper section has to be maintained. This actually works very well because our fabric is jersey. 
This is what the drawstring should look like from the inside. 
The prepared waistband is then pulled through the tunnel with a safety pin. The ribbon can now be cut to the desired size and secured with beads and a knot.
Your SARAH is ready !
If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schn ittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible.
Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!
Sincerely, your Dagmar and Ellen.
