The jersey dress Julia is a quick sewing project and a real eye-catcher due to the soft cowl neckline and the pleated waist area. The double-processed front part and the folds emphasize the female form and at the same time conceal small love handles.
Center back length = 93 - 97 cm
In these instructions, Julia was sewn from a softly falling viscose jersey.
We recommend a soft jersey with elastane, opaque as the dress is unlined.
|Sizes 34-46||outer fabric||2.30 m||140cm wide|
|Sizes 48-50||outer fabric||3.40 m||140cm wide|
Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can lay the front pieces and back piece in the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.
You need from fabric:
- 1x front part outside in break
- 1x front piece inside broken
- 1x back part in break
- 2x sleeves in opposite directions
- 1x neck band
To sew this dress you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to overcast the raw edges.
Be sure to use a jersey needle and use a stretch stitch, i.e. if you are sewing with a home sewing machine you should use either a zigzag stitch or the tripartite elastic stitch and then all seam allowances again with a zigzag stitch or another appropriate stitch neaten so they don't fray. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Begin your sewing work by fixing the pleats in the shoulder and waist area of the outside of the front piece. Note the notches and directional arrows for the creases on the pattern. FYI the pleats open up, do not mix up right and wrong sides of fabric, shoulder seam has a 1cm seam allowance while side seam has a 1.5cm NZG and the photo above of my sample dress is the view on the wrong side of the fabric. Also neaten the hem of the front piece.
Iron the hem of the front part according to the pattern. There is a slit in the left body side of the dress. You prepare this by ironing in the front left edge twice over 0.7 cm and up to the top knot. The seam allowance at the clip must be cut so that the ironed over can later be easily laid with the seam allowances that have been trimmed together.
Now stitch the prepared front edge just under the edge...
... and then tighten the hem all around.
Now place both front pieces on top of each other and sew them together. It is important that the inner front part, left sides facing , lies on the outer front part and the neckline seam is closed. FYI: Both front pieces are sewn with the right side of the fabric facing out, so left on right. Pay attention to the snaps in the cut.
Iron the seam allowances apart.
Sew the front pieces together, right sides facing, and sew the side seams together. Note that you only close the side seam on the left side of the body up to the snap/beginning of the slit. The hem allowance of the inner front remains unfolded when stitching the right side of the body.
Neaten the hem of the inner front piece one at a time and iron it according to the pattern.
Here you can see a detailed view of the front parts for processing the hem of the right side of the body.
You can also prepare the hem of the back part with trimming and ironing according to the pattern.
Now let's get to the neck strap. Lay this one on top of the other in a fold, wrong sides together, and stitch an auxiliary seam the width of a quilting foot.
Place the band, right sides together, at the neckline of the back piece and stitch it with a 1cm wide seam. Stretch the ribbon a little at the neckline during this process. The seam allowance is then trimmed so that it is not too thick.
Here you can see a detailed view with flat-stitched seam and cut seam allowances.
Then turn the band to the inside (wrong side of the fabric) and stitch it through the edge.
Here you can see a detailed view of how the neckline of the back part looks processed from the inside.
Now the side seams of the front and back pieces are placed, right sides together, and sewn together. Make sure to move the slit on the left side of the body out of the way so you don't accidentally sew it along. Neaten the seam allowances together and then iron them to the front (right side of the body) or to the back. The hems of the back and inner front are in an open state (see photo below).
Here you can see a detailed photo of the processing of the hem on the right side of the body.
Now fold over the ironed hem and stitch it from the inner front and back in one go. Start on the right side of the body.
The shoulders are also processed overturned. The shoulder seam of the outer front piece lies, right sides together, on the shoulder seam of the back piece, while the inner front piece, folded back, is also placed on the shoulder of the RT, but wrong sides together. Both front parts enclose the shoulder seam of the back part and everything is folded neatly together. FYI: The fold break of the top fold ends with the shoulder point at the décolleté. You should cut away the seam allowance at this point so that the seam lies better when you fall over and this area does not become too thick.
Here you can see a detailed view of the first processed seam of the outer front part with the back part.
Here you can see a detailed view of the second processed seam of the inner front part with the back part (on the right in the photo) and what it should look like after turning over (on the left in the photo).
Place the sleeves on top of each other, right sides together, sew them together, neaten the seam allowances and iron them to the back.
You neaten the hem...
... and iron it upwards according to the cut.
Then stitch through the hems.
The sleeve width is provided with an auxiliary seam the width of a quilting foot to counteract the expansion of the jersey.
FYI: Sew the armholes of the front parts together with an auxiliary seam to secure the two layers of fabric.
Now all you have to do is position and sew the sleeves into the correct armhole of your dress. You neaten the seam allowances together.
Your JULIA is ready !
If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to email@example.com. We will answer you as soon as possible.
Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!
Sincerely, your Dagmar and Ellen.