NÄHANLEITUNG WASSERFALLKLEID “JULIA”

SEWING INSTRUCTIONS WATERFALL DRESS “JULIA”

The Julia jersey dress is a quick sewing project and a special eye-catcher due to the soft waterfall neckline and pleated waist area. The double-processed front part and the pleated section emphasize the feminine shapes and at the same time conceal small pads.

Length at center back = 93 – 97 cm

→ To the pattern “Julia”

In these instructions, Julia was sewn from a soft, draping viscose jersey.

Required material:

We recommend a soft jersey with elastane, opaque, as the dress is without lining.

Sizes 34-46 Outer fabric 2.30 m 140cm wide
Sizes 48-50 Outer fabric 3.40 m 140cm wide

Cutting:

Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Lay the fabric right side up. Place the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can place the front and back pieces in the fold. The pattern pieces should all lie face up. Always align the thread arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the clippings from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk. Clip the seam allowance in the fabric fold because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.

What you need from fabric:

  • 1x front part outside in the break
  • 1x front part inside in the break
  • 1x back part in the break
  • 2x sleeves opposite
  • 1x neck strap

Sewing instructions:

To sew this dress you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the raw edges.

Be sure to use a jersey needle and use a stretchy stitch, i.e. if you are sewing with a household sewing machine, you should use either a zigzag stitch or the three-part elastic stitch and then all seam allowances again with a zigzag stitch or another appropriate stitch Neaten so they don't fray. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

Start your sewing work by fixing the folds in the shoulder and waist area of ​​the outside front piece. Pay attention to the clips and directional arrows for the folds on the pattern. For your information: the folds open upwards, do not confuse the right and left sides of the fabric with each other, the shoulder seam has a seam allowance of 1cm, while the side seam has a seam allowance of 1.5cm and the photo above of my example dress is the view on the left side of the fabric. Additionally, neaten the hem of the front piece.

Iron the hem of the front piece according to the pattern. There is a slit on the left side of the dress. You prepare this by ironing and ironing the front left edge twice 0.7cm up to the top clip. The seam allowance on the clip must be cut so that the ironed part can be laid easily later with the seam allowances neatened together.

Now stitch the prepared front edge through just under the edge...

... and then secure the hem all around.

Now put both front pieces on top of each other and sew them together. It is important that the inner front part, left to right , lies on the outer front part and that the neckline seam is closed together. FYI: both front pieces are processed with the right side of the fabric facing out, so left sides together. Pay attention to the clips in the cut.

Iron the seam allowances apart.

Sew the front pieces together, right sides together, and sew the side seams together. Please note that you only close the side seam on the left side of the body up to the snap/beginning of the slit. The hem allowance of the inner front piece remains folded out when stitching the right side of the body.

Overcast the hem of the inner front piece individually and iron it according to the pattern.

Here you can see a detailed view of the front parts for processing the hem on the right side of the body.

You also prepare the hem of the back part by overcasting and ironing according to the pattern.

Now let's come to the neck band. Place these on top of each other, left sides facing, and stitch an auxiliary seam as wide as a quilting foot.

Place the band, right sides together, on the neck hole of the back piece and stitch it in place with a 1cm wide seam. Stretch the band slightly to the neck hole during this process. The seam allowance is then trimmed so that it is not too thick.

The seam allowances are then stitched flat as far as you can get them. This method not only makes the final ironing out easier, but also means that the neck band, if it is not stitched, automatically folds inwards and does not roll out. Only the band is stitched on the edge of the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the left inside of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Here you can see a detailed view with a flat stitched seam and cut seam allowances.

Then fold the ribbon to the inside (left side of the fabric) and stitch it through just along the edge.

Here you can see a detailed view of how the neck hole of the back piece looks from the inside.

Now place the side seams of the front and back pieces, right sides together, and sew them together. Make sure to move the slit on the left side of the body out of the way so that you don't accidentally sew it. Finish the seam allowances together and then iron them to the front (right side of the body) or to the back. The back and inner front hems are open (see photo below).

Here you can see a detailed photo of the processing of the hem on the right side of the body.

Now fold the ironed hem over and stitch it in place from the inside front and back pieces in one go. Start on the right side of your body.

The shoulders are also processed in a twisted manner. The shoulder seam of the outside front piece lies, right sides together, on the shoulder seam of the back piece, while the inside front piece is folded over and placed on the shoulder of the RT, but wrong sides together. This means that both front pieces surround the shoulder seam of the back piece and everything fits neatly together. FYI: The fold of the top fold ends with the shoulder point on the décolleté. You should cut away a little of the seam allowance at this point so that the seam lays down better when it falls and this area doesn't become too thick.

Here you can see a detailed view of the first processed seam of the outer front part with the back part.

Here you can see a detailed view of the second processed seam of the inner front part with the back part (right in the photo) and what it should look like after falling (left in the photo).

Place the sleeves on top of each other, right sides together, sew them together, finish the seam allowances and iron them to the back.

You finish the hem...

... and iron it according to the cut upwards.

Then stitch through the hems.

The sleeve width is provided with an auxiliary seam the width of the quilting foot to counteract the expansion of the jersey.

FYI: Sew the armholes of the front pieces together using an auxiliary seam to secure the two layers of fabric.

Now all you have to do is position and sew the sleeves into the correct armhole of your dress. Finish the seam allowances together.

Your JULIA is ready !

If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will respond to you as quickly as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Warmest regards, Dagmar and Ellen.

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