The Jahel dress is a classic wrap dress. The tie strap ensures a good fit and small dimensional deviations are wonderfully concealed. Sewn from a jersey fabric, it is absolutely suitable for everyday use, while a fine silk fabric makes Jahel the perfect dress for a special occasion.
Length at center back = 103 – 109 cm
Jahel was sewn from a jersey in this pattern.
We recommend a flowing jersey fabric or silk with elastane, opaque, as the dress is unlined.
Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the middle so that you can place the front, upper collar, lower collar, facing at the back and the collar stays in the fold. The pattern pieces should all lie face up. Always align the thread arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the clips from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Clip the seam allowance in the fabric fold because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to roughly cut all outer fabric parts that will be completely covered with inserts first. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing cut parts here.
What you need from fabric:
- 1x back part in the break
- 2x side panels in opposite directions
- 2x front part opposite
- 2x sleeves in opposite directions
- 1x band upper step
- 1x band underlay
also with insert:
- 2x collar band in the break
- 1x upper collar in the break
- 1x undercollar in the break
- 1x receipt at the back of the break
- 2x receipts on the front opposite each other
- 1x receipt opening for belt passage
- 2x cuffs in opposite directions
- 1x side part of the right side of the body
also with form band:
- 2x receipt at the front
- 1x receipt at the back
To sew this dress you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the raw edges.
Be sure to use a jersey needle and use a stretchy stitch, i.e. if you are sewing with a household sewing machine, you should use either a zigzag stitch or the three-part elastic stitch and then all seam allowances again with a zigzag stitch or another appropriate stitch Neaten so they don't fray. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!
First, take the smallest pattern piece, the opening of the band opening, and devote yourself to closing the opening in the side part of the right side of the body. To do this, iron the seam allowances 1cm all around.
The small facing is placed right to right in the middle of the marked points and a rectangle the width of a quilting foot is stitched through.
Then cut inside the rectangle: Start in the middle of the opening and cut both layers of fabric exactly along the center line up to approx. 1 cm before the vertical end mark. Now cut diagonally from the end of your incision to just before the corner. Make these angled cuts on each side, top and bottom.
Now the small rectangular piece of fabric can be turned over. This means right to right is turned around to left to left. Fix the facing by stitching the edge through it.
There is a dart in the front at waist level.
Now all parts can be connected together. The front piece is connected to the side piece, right sides together. Then the side part with the back part etc. The shoulder seams are closed. All seams are neatened together and ironed towards the center back or front.
Next, prepare the ribbons. The top and bottom steps are processed in the same way. Fold the top band in half and close the seam with 1cm. Stop before the slant; you'll do that later so that you can iron the seam allowances apart more easily.
Now you can sew off the bias and trim the seam allowances at the corners so that the corner doesn't become too thick when it falls over and can be laid nice and flat. The corners are finished and ironed.
This is what the finished and ironed binding tape looks like.
Next, the upper collar and lower collar are sewn together. The small extra width in the upper collar must be maintained when falling; this is the so-called roll width. This allows the collar to fall nicely when worn, so the corners don't stick up.
...then turn it over and iron it flat.
The two collar stays are sewn together on the short sides, right sides together, and the seam allowances are ironed apart...
... and sewn to the previously prepared upper/lower collar, right sides together, with 1cm.
You also iron these seam allowances apart so that the area there doesn't become too thick.
This is what your ironed collar looks like at the end.
Finally, sew the collar, right sides together, 1cm into the neck hole. Note: I have placed a white sheet of paper between the collar and the dress in the photo for a clearer view since it is a patterned fabric.
Now let's sew on the ties. These lie between the front part and the facing, which will later be sewn on in one go. Pay attention to the clips marked in the pattern and, right to right, place the top band on the right side of the body and the bottom band on the left side of the body. Fix both with an auxiliary seam the width of a quilting foot.
The sleeves are sewn together and then the seam allowances are finished together. Press the seam allowances back.
You iron the cuffs, left sides together, in a fold and prepare them. Then the cuff is placed, right sides together, to be able to process the slit (see photo). Stitch the seam with 1cm up to your clip and iron the seam allowances apart.
The wrap is then placed (ironed as before) and the opening is closed with 1cm.
This is what your finished cuff with a slit looks like.
Now you can finish your sleeve by sewing the cuff together, seam to seam, right sides together. The seam allowances are neatened together and ironed upwards.
The lower cut edge of the receipt at the back is neatened...
... as well as the inner pages of the receipt at the front.
Place the facings together at the shoulders, right sides together, sew them in place and iron the seam allowances apart.
Then place the prepared facing, right sides together, on the front piece and stitch all the way around. Pay attention to the clips in the cut.
The seam allowance from the facing and front piece is then stitched flat as far as you can get to it . This method not only makes ironing easier but also causes the facing to automatically fold inwards if it is not stitched separately. Only the facing is stitched close to the edge on the seam allowance. The stitching line can then only be seen from the inside left side, but not from the right side.
Finish the hem all around and then iron it according to the pattern. Orientate yourself on the snapshots in the cut. Stitch the hem through at 2.8cm.
The covering is then ironed and stitched. One narrow edge to the front edge and the second stitching line to secure the facing.
Lastly, sew the sleeves, right sides together, into the correct armhole. Orientate yourself on the snapshots in the cut. Finish the seam allowances together.
Your JAHEL is ready !
If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please contact us by email at email@example.com. We will respond to you as quickly as possible.
Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!
Warmest regards, Dagmar and Ellen.