The Jahel dress is a classic wrap dress. The tie guarantees a good fit and small dimensional deviations are wonderfully concealed. Sewn from a jersey fabric, it is absolutely suitable for everyday use, a noble silk fabric makes Jahel the perfect dress for a special occasion.
Length at center back = 103 - 109 cm
Jahel was sewn from jersey in this pattern.
We recommend flowing jersey fabric or silk with elastane, opaque as the dress is unlined.
|Size 34-42||outer fabric||2.80 m||140cm wide|
|inlay||1.20 m||90 cm wide|
|Size 44-50||outer fabric||3.50 m||140cm wide|
|inlay||1.20 m||90 cm wide|
Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can fold the front, upper collar, undercollar, facing at the back and the collar bands in the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing pattern pieces here.
You need from fabric:
- 1x back part in break
- 2x side part in opposite directions
- 2x front part in opposite directions
- 2x sleeves in opposite directions
- 1x band overstep
- 1x band understep
also with insert:
- 2x collar stand in break
- 1x upper collar in break
- 1x undercollar in break
- 1x receipt at the back in the rupture
- 2x receipt in front of the same
- 1x receipt opening for tape passage
- 2x cuff in opposite directions
- 1x side part of the right side of the body
also with band:
- 2x receipt in front
- 1x slip on the back
To sew this dress you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to overcast the raw edges.
Be sure to use a jersey needle and use a stretch stitch, i.e. if you are sewing with a home sewing machine you should use either a zigzag stitch or the tripartite elastic stitch and then all seam allowances again with a zigzag stitch or another appropriate stitch neaten so they don't fray. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
First, take the smallest pattern piece, the tape opening slip, and devote yourself to turning over the opening in the side part on the right side of the body. To do this, iron the seam allowances around 1 cm.
The small slip is placed, right sides together, in the middle of the marked points and stitched through a rectangle the width of a stitching foot.
Then cut inside the rectangle: start in the middle of the opening and cut open both layers of fabric exactly along the center line up to approx. 1 cm before the vertical end mark. Now cut diagonally from the end of your incision to just before the corner. Make these slanted cuts on each side, top and bottom.
Now the small rectangular piece of fabric can be turned over. That means right to right turns to, left to left, turns around. Secure the receipt by stitching it just under the edge.
There is a dart in the front at waist level. A simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, snap by snap, from the widest point to the tip
Now all parts can be connected together. The front part is connected to the side part, right sides together. Then the side part with the back part etc. The shoulder seams are closed. All seams are neatened together and ironed towards the center back or center front.
Next, prepare the tapes. Overstep and understep are processed in the same way. Lay the overstep tape in half and close the seam with 1cm. Stop in front of the slant, you'll do that later so you can iron out the seam allowances better.
Now you can sew off the slope and trim the seam allowances at the corners so that the corner doesn't get too thick when you turn it over and can be laid flat. The corners are finished and ironed.
This is what the finished folded and ironed tie looks like.
Next, the upper collar and lower collar are sewn together. The small extra width in the upper collar must be maintained when falling, this is the so-called roll width. This lets the collar fall nicely when worn, so the corners don't stand up.
... then turn and iron flat.
The two collar bands are sewn together on the short sides, right sides facing, the seam allowances ironed apart...
... and sewn to the previously prepared upper/lower collar, right sides together, with 1cm.
You also iron these seam allowances apart so that the area there does not become too thick.
This is what your finished ironed collar will look like at the end.
Finally, sew the collar, right sides together, 1 cm into the neck hole. Note: I put a piece of white paper between the collar and the dress in the photo for a clearer view because it is a patterned fabric.
Now let's sew on the ties. These lie between the front part and the lining, which is later sewn on in one go. Pay attention to the notches marked in the pattern and, right sides together, place the ribbon overstep on the right side of the body and the ribbon understep on the left side of the body. Fix both with an auxiliary seam the width of a stitching foot.
The sleeves are sewn together and then the seam allowances are neatened together. Press the seam allowances backwards.
You iron the cuffs, left to left, in the fold and prepare them with it. Then the cuff is placed, right sides together, to be able to process the slit (see photo). Stitch the seam with 1cm up to your notch and press open the seam allowances.
Then the fold (ironed as before) is placed and the opening is closed with 1cm.
This is what your finished cuff with a slit will look like.
Now you can finish your sleeve by sewing the cuff seam to seam and right sides together. The seam allowances are neatened together and ironed upwards.
The lower cut edge of the slip is trimmed at the back,…
... as well as the inside pages of the receipt at the front.
Place the facings together at the shoulders, right sides together, sew them in place and iron out the seam allowances.
Then place the prepared slip, right sides together, on the front piece and stitch all the way around. Pay attention to the snaps in the cut.
Then the seam allowance from the facing and front part is flat-stitched as far as you can get . This method not only makes ironing easier, but also means that the facing automatically turns inwards if it is not topstitched separately. Only the facing is stitched close to the edge of the seam allowance. The stitching line can then only be seen from the left inside, but not from the right side.
Neaten the hem all around and then iron it according to the pattern. Orientate yourself on the snaps in the cut. Stitch through the hem at 2.8cm.
The slip is then ironed and stitched. Once almost edge to front edge and the second stitching line to fix the facing.
Finally, sew the sleeves, right sides together, into the correct armhole. Orientate yourself on the snaps in the cut. You neaten the seam allowances together.
Your JAHEL is ready !
If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to firstname.lastname@example.org. We will answer you as soon as possible.
Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!
Sincerely, your Dagmar and Ellen.