Sewing instructions for the Selma wind shirt

The wind shirt is ideal for layering and protects against wind and weather. At the same time, you have a hip-length top that pairs beautifully with our Smilla leggings . Selma features many beautiful details, such as the contrasting elastic edging that gently ties the edges together, creating a very sporty look. The zippers and inner hood are also in the contrasting color, and last but not least, the waist can be adjusted to fit more snug or looser with the elastic drawstring in the back.

Length at the center back = 77 – 83 cm

→ To the “Selma” pattern

Selma was sewn in this tutorial from a polyester sports fabric.

Required materials:

We recommend a thin and soft outdoor fabric and a contrasting mesh hood lining.

Sizes 34-42	Outer fabric	1.40 m	140 cm wide
Sizes 44-50	Outer fabric	1.90 m	140 cm wide
Sizes 34-50	contrast	0.35 m	140 cm wide
Sizes 34-50	Ripper ntlb.	1 piece	25 cm long
Sizes 34-50	Ripper ntlb.	2 pieces	16 cm long
Sizes 34-50	elastic edging tape	4 m	2 cm wide
Sizes 34-50	elastic cord	0.80 m	3 mm
Sizes 34-50	cord stopper	1 piece
Sizes 34-50	eyelets	2 pieces

Cutting:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked!

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Lay the fabric right side up. Position the selvedges parallel to the center so you can place the front, back, pocket, and tunnel pieces on the fold. The pattern pieces should all be laid with the writing facing up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm snip with scissors or chalk. Notch the seam allowance along the fold, as this is always the center. Markings define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.

You will need fabric:

• 1x hood center
• 1 x Hood Center Contrast
• 2x hood opposite
• 2 x hood contrast opposite
• 2x pocket bags in the break
• 2x pocket receipt
• 1x front part in the break
• 1x back part in the fracture
• 1x tunnel at the back of the quarry

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked!

To sew this jacket you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively you can use your sewing machine's zigzag stitch to neaten the cut edges.

In addition to the description, the colored lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1 cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

Start sewing with the hoods. Place one hood piece and the hood center, right sides together, and sew the seam.

Sew the second hood piece, right sides together, to the other center section. Then, clip the seam allowances on both seams in the curve and press them inward.

Sew the seam allowances close to the edge.

Do the same with the inner hood.

Tip: We've glued an extra interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric around the pocket windows for additional stability. Whether this is necessary depends entirely on the fabric.

The pocket pouch is pinned to the wrong side of the front piece according to the markings in the pattern and secured. On the right side of the fabric, place the pocket facings and pin them in place. The pocket window is sewn through all layers of fabric at the same time.

Here you can see a detailed view of the left side of the fabric.

Here you can see a photo of the right side of the fabric.

And again in detail.

Now cut the window: centered between the two seams, up to about 1.5 cm from the end. Cut a triangle here, continuing to the last stitch.

Before we turn the pocket facings inside out, they are stitched flat close to the edge.

Here you can see a detailed photo of how the facings were stitched down.

Now the receipts can be pulled inwards and placed on the previously fixed pocket bag.

Here you can see a detailed photo of what a finished receipt looks like.

The matching zipper is placed under the resulting window and stitched all around.

This is what the finished ripper looks like.

The second pocket bag is placed on top of the other, right sides together, and stitched all the way around. The seam allowances are neatened together.

For additional security, a seam is stitched through both pockets directly next to the zipper.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the extra seam on the zipper.

The tunnel for the back part is ironed over on the long sides.

The eyelets are tucked into the back piece according to the markings in the cut and secured with a double layer of fabric. The tunnel is placed on the back piece according to the markings in the pattern and stitched down close to the edge on the wrong side of the fabric.

The rubber is pulled through the tunnel and secured at the sides.

The pocket bag is now cut up to the mark on the front part…

… and extra stitched.

The gathering seams in the neck hole are sewn and prepared with two large stitches from notch to notch.

Here is a video on ruffle processing and gathering:

Next, sew the shoulders together, right sides together, and neaten the seam allowances. These are then ironed back.

The gathering seam in the back part also needs to be prepared.

The outer hood is placed, right sides together, against the body. When sewing, make sure your gathers are evenly distributed. You can secure the flat sections with pins beforehand. This is what your seams look like from different perspectives of the hood.

Now you can pin and sew the inner hood to the body piece, right sides together.

The hoods are turned up and sewn together with a stitch around the edge, wrong sides together.

Now let's start working with the elastic band. Cut it to the correct length and pin it to the neckline on the front piece. Sew the seam, starting close to the neckline, smoothly along the edge, all the way to the neckline and the top of the hood. Note: If the presser foot is slipping, use an extra piece of cardboard to help you and place it under the presser foot.

The ends are then sewn together, right sides together.

Here you can see a detailed view of how the elastic band was sewn on and the ends are closed.

Now, mark the half of your unsewn band with a pin, place this center on the center of your hood, and pin both together. While stitching close to the edge, pull the elastic band slightly. This will evenly distribute the length of the hood and create small gathers.

The elastic band is additionally fixed at the neckline tip with a diagonal seam and finished.

This is what the neckline tip looks like in the end.

The marking and position of the zipper at the center front are measured from the pattern and transferred to the windbreaker with chalk. The zipper is then placed under the neckline at the marked mark and sewn all the way around the elastic band seam. This is what the finished zipper looks like.

The end of the zipper is secured with an additional piece of fabric.

The armholes are easier to work with when open, so we haven't sewn the side seams yet. Cut the elastic bands for the armholes to the correct length and sew them on close to the edge. Here, too, the width is evenly distributed by gently pulling the band.

Close the side seam, neaten the seam allowances together and iron them to the back.

The elastic band for the hem is also cut, pinned, and sewn in place. Here, too, the width is evenly distributed across the hem by gently pulling the band.

Your SELMA is ready ! 

If you're stuck or have any questions, please email us at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We'll respond as soon as possible. 

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your Schnittmuster-Berlin team.