The wind shirt is ideal for covering and protects against wind and weather, at the same time you have a hip-length top that can be wonderfully combined with our Smilla leggings . Selma has many nice details, such as the contrasting colored elastic edging that gently holds the edges and gives it a very sporty look. The zips and the inner hood are also in the contrasting color and last but not least, the waist can be adjusted narrower or more casually with the elastic cord in the back, as desired.

Length at center back = 77-83cm

Selma was sewn from a polyester sports fabric in this pattern.

Required material:

We recommend a thin and soft outdoor fabric and a contrasting mesh hood lining.

Sizes 34-42 outer fabric 1.40 m 140cm wide
Sizes 44-50 outer fabric 1.90 m 140cm wide
Sizes 34-50 contrast 0.35m 140cm wide
Sizes 34-50 tear ntlb. 1 piece 25cm long
Sizes 34-50 tear ntlb. 2 pieces 16 cm long
Sizes 34-50 elastic edging tape 4 m 2 cm wide
Sizes 34-50 elastic cord 0.80 m 3mm
Sizes 34-50 cord stopper 1 piece
Sizes 34-50 eyelets 2 pieces


Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can lay the front, back, pocket pouch and tunnel in the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.

You need from fabric:

  • 1x hood middle
  • 1 x Hood Mid Contrast
  • 2x hood in opposite
  • 2 x hood contrast opposite
  • 2x pocket bag in break
  • 2x pocket receipt
  • 1x front part in break
  • 1x back part in break
  • 1x tunnel at the back of the break

Sewing instructions:

To sew this jacket you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing!

Begin your sewing with the hoods. Place one hood piece and the middle of the hood on top of each other, right sides together, and sew the seam.

Sew the second hood piece, right sides together, to the other stretch down the middle. The seam allowances are then snapped into both seams in the curve and ironed inwards.

Stitch the seam allowances with a close seam.

Do the same with the inner hood.

Tip: We have stuck an extra insert on the left side of the fabric to the pocket windows for additional stability. But that depends very much on the fabric, whether it is extra necessary.

The pocket bag is pinned to the wrong side of the fabric on the front part and fixed according to the marking in the pattern. Place the pocket facings on the right side of the fabric and secure them with pins. The pocket window is sewn through all layers of fabric at the same time.

Here you can see a detailed view of the left side of the fabric.

Here you can see a photo of the right side of the fabric.

And again in detail.

The window is now cut: in the middle between the two seams, up to approx. 1.5 cm before the end. Here you cut a triangle, up to the last stitch.

Before we turn the pocket facings inwards, they are stitched flat at the edges.

Here you can see a detailed photo of how the receipts were stitched down.

Now the receipts can be pulled inwards and thus lie on the previously fixed pocket bag.

Here you can see a detailed photo of how a fully processed receipt looks.

The appropriate zipper is placed under the resulting window and stitched all around.

This is what the tearer looks like when it is finished.

The second pocket bag is placed on top of the other, right sides together, and stitched all the way around. The seam allowances are neatened together.

For additional security, a seam is stitched through both pocket bags right next to the zipper.

Here you can see a detail photo of the extra stitching on the zipper.

The tunnel for the back part is ironed on the long sides.

The eyelets are punched into the back section according to the marking and secured with a double layer of fabric.

The tunnel is placed on the back part according to the marking in the pattern and stitched under the edge on the left side of the fabric.

The elastic is pulled through the tunnel and secured at the sides.

The pocket bag is now cut up to the marking on the front part...

... and extra stitched.

The ruffle seams in the neckline are sewn and prepared with two large stitches from knips to knips.

Here we have a video on the subject of ruffle processing and gathering folds:

Then sew the shoulders together, right sides together, and neaten the seam allowances. These are then ironed backwards.

The ruffled seam in the back must also be prepared.

The outer hood is placed right sides together on the body part. When sewing, pay attention to an even distribution of your gathering folds. You can secure the slippery stretches with needles beforehand.

This is what your seam will look like from different perspectives of the hood.

Now you can also pin and sew the inner hood to the body part, right sides together.

The hoods are turned up and sewn together left sides together with an auxiliary seam all around.

Now let's start processing the elastic band. Cut it to the right length and pin it to the neckline in the front. Sew the seam close to the edge at the neckline point, starting stockinette stitching up to the top of the hood and the point of the neckline. Info: If the little foot slides, then take an extra piece of cardboard to help and put it under the little foot.

The ends are then sewn together, right sides together.

Here you can see a detailed view of how the elastic band was sewn on and the ends are closed.

Now you mark the half of your not yet sewn band with a pin and put this middle on the middle of your hood and pin both. When stitching through the edge, pull the elastic band a little. In this way you distribute the length of the hood evenly and small puckered folds appear.

The elastic band is additionally fixed and finished at the top of the neckline with a diagonal seam.

This is what the cutout tip looks like at the end.

The marking and position of the tear in the center front is measured from the pattern and chalked onto the wind shirt. The zipper is then placed at the marked mark under the neckline and sewn all the way around the seam of the elastic band.

This is what the sewn-in zipper looks like at the end.

The end of the zipper is secured with an extra piece of fabric.

When open, the armholes are easier to work with, so we haven't closed the side seams yet. Cut the elastic bands of the armholes to the right length and sew them close to the edge. Here, too, the width is evenly distributed in the armhole by gently pulling the band.

Close the side seam, neaten the seam allowances and iron them to the back.

The elastic band for the hem is also cut to size, attached and sewn on. Here, too, the width is evenly distributed in the hem by gently pulling the tape.

Your SELMA is ready ! 

If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely yours, Dagmar and Ellen.

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