In November 2019 we released the first cut developed with Manu, the Hoodie Emilea . One year later we are very happy to present you a successor. SVEA - a jacket in a sporty military style, with patch pockets, epaulettes and arm straps. This jacket combines many details, such as the zip in the center front that the panel covers and the various straps that you can fasten with sporty snaps. Every little detail is well thought out, as we have come to expect from Manu. Due to the different divisions in the cut and the many details, it is worth using a contrasting fabric, such as a woolen fabric with oilskin.
Center back length = 64-70 cm
In this pattern, Svea was sewn from a wool/polyamide mixture.
Required material:
We recommend a solid cotton or wool fabric.
Sizes 34-40
outer fabric
1.50 m
140cm wide
Sizes 34-40
contrast fabric
0.60 m
140cm wide
Sizes 34-40
lining fabric
1.20 m
140cm wide
Sizes 34-40
inlay
1.60 m
90 cm wide
Sizes 42-50
outer fabric
1.90 m
140cm wide
Sizes 42-50
contrast fabric
0.60 m
140cm wide
Sizes 42-50
lining fabric
1.40 m
140cm wide
Sizes 42-50
inlay
1.80 m
90 cm wide
Sizes 34-50
fixation tape
1.10 m
12mm wide
size 34
ripper
56 cm long
divisible
Sizes 36-38
ripper
58cm long
divisible
size 40
ripper
60cm long
divisible
Sizes 42-50
ripper
65cm long
divisible
Sizes 34-50
Printer
9 pcs
10mm diameter
Sizes 34-40
upper complete
1.90 m
140cm wide
Sizes 42-50
upper complete
2.30 m
140cm wide
cutting:
Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric, lining fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can place the back yoke, back hem facing and back facing in the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or with chalk and mark the ends of the darts, note that from size 42 bust darts must be processed. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. Here there is also a video from us about gluing and fixing pattern pieces.
You need from fabric:
1x yoke at the back in the break
2x back down opposite
2x upper sleeves in opposite directions
2x upper sleeves in opposite directions
2x lower sleeves in opposite directions
1x step on the left
2x bag opposite
1x ribbon
also with insert:
1x front part on the right
1x yoke front right
2x collar
1x bezel top right
1x panel on the bottom right
1x receipt front right
1x receipt at the back in the rupture
1x receipt front left
1x front left
1x yoke front left
2x hem facing in opposite directions
1x hem facing in the fold at the back
1x collar latch
2x shoulder straps in opposite directions
2x pocket flap at the top in opposite directions
2x pocket flaps at the top inside in opposite directions
2x pocket flaps below in opposite directions
2x pocket flaps below inside in opposite directions
2x pocket slip opposite
2x arm bars in opposite directions
You need from feed:
2x front lining in opposite directions
2x yoke front lining opposite
2x upper sleeve lining in opposite directions
2x undersleeve lining in opposite directions
1x back lining in the break
Sewing instructions:
You will need a sewing machine to sew this jacket.
If you use a zipper, you also need the right presser foot for your sewing machine. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued. When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide! Happy sewing!
Lining: The right upper sleeve is sewn together with the right lower sleeve right sides together and the inner arm seam is also closed. However, an opening of approx. 20cm is left on the left sleeve so that the hem can be closed later through this opening. The seam allowances are ironed apart.
Now let's take the front yoke lining piece and sew it right sides together to the front lining piece. The seam allowances are ironed apart.
Next up is the back part. In the center back is a lining fold. Lay the back piece in the fold and sew down the width of the fold about 2cm from the edge and pin it securely. Iron this fold in one direction up to the hem.
According to the pattern, the side seams are sewn together right sides together and then ironed to the back.
According to the pattern, the shoulders are sewn together right sides together and then ironed to the back.
Both lining sleeves are turned right side out and inserted into the previously prepared torso. Make sure that the side seams and the snaps are on top of each other. The seam allowances are ironed into the sleeves.
The lining can be put aside for now and let's start with the small parts. The pocket flap at the top is sewn together with the pocket flap at the top inside right sides together (see photo). The bottom pocket flap is sewn together with the bottom pocket flap inside right sides together.
For curves and corners, seam allowances are shortened with scissors and cut or cut off. The corners do not become too thick when turning and the seam allowances can be laid flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the point and from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that won't fray as quickly after trimming.
After turning, you should shape the corners with a corner and edge shaper and then iron them out.
Depending on your sewing project, you can topstitch the outside edges, this will flatten them out and give them extra security.
Collar tabs, shoulder tabs and arm tabs are laid right sides together in a fold and sewn together (see photo).
For curves and corners, seam allowances are shortened with scissors and cut or cut off. The corners do not become too thick when turning and the seam allowances can be laid flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the point and from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that won't fray as quickly after trimming.
After turning, you should shape the corners with a corner and edge shaper and then iron them out.
Depending on your sewing project, you can topstitch the outside edges, this will flatten them nicely and secure them.
Here you can see all bars and pocket flaps at a glance.
The bags get a so-called squash fold. The cut shows you in which direction the folds are ironed. Then the bag is ironed around 1cm. If you are using a really thick wool fabric, you can also choose the pocket cut without the pleat, which is included as an option in the pattern.
The lower cut edges of the pocket receipts are trimmed. Then a pocket slip is stitched onto a pocket right sides together and the slip is turned inside out. The seam allowance is then flat-stitched. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also means that the facing automatically lies inwards and does not roll out if it is not topstitched separately. Only the facing is stitched close to the edge of the seam allowance. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side.
The prepared pocket can now be positioned at the markings on the front part, needled and stitched down the width of a stitching foot.
The prepared pocket flap below can now be positioned at the markings on the front part, needled and stitched with a 1cm seam allowance. However, the seam allowance is then trimmed by 0.5 cm. Then the pocket flap is folded down...
... and quilted the width of a quilting foot. In this way, the cut seam allowance disappears under the quilting seam. Pay attention to the roll width of the outer pocket flap, otherwise the flap will stick out.
The prepared pocket flap at the top can now be positioned at the markings on the front part, left sides facing, needled and stitched with a 0.7 cm auxiliary seam.
The tailored yokes: front right and front left are sewn to the respective front parts right sides together. In the photo you can see the left side of the body. Then iron the seam allowances upwards.
The seam allowances are stitched to the yoke the width of a stitching foot.
The back parts are closed right sides together in the center back. Then iron out the seam allowances.
For the band or hanger on the back of the jacket, the seam allowances are ironed 0.5 cm to the middle, folded and stitched through the edge. The band is then ironed flat to form a curve.
The prepared band can now be positioned at the markings on the pattern between the back piece and the yoke, right sides together, needled and stitched with a 0.7 cm auxiliary seam. Then the yoke is sewn to the back piece, right sides together.
The yoke at the back is folded up and with it the seam allowances, which are stitched to the yoke one foot wide.
The finished back part and the prepared front parts are additionally reinforced with shaping tape: namely the neckholes & armholes.
Close the torso by sewing together the side seams of the front and back pieces, right sides facing. The seam allowances are ironed apart.
Close the shoulder seams. Iron the seam allowances apart.
The bottom seam of the outer collar is sewn to the neckline of the front and back pieces.
The facings: left front, back and right front are sewn together, right sides facing, and the seam allowances ironed apart.
A hanging strap made of lining is pinned between the facing and the collar in the center back.
The bottom seam of the inner collar is sewn to the neckline of the prepared facing.
The band at the top right is sewn together with the band at the bottom right, right sides together. Iron the seam allowances apart.
The finished panel is sewn to the right front piece, right sides together, here too the seam allowances are ironed apart.
Now take your zipper and the right side of your body. Starting at the snap under the collar, position the ripper on the raw edge of the panel, right sides together. Sew the zipper to the bottom. Then the snaps are pierced.
The panel is ironed in the fold and placed inside.
The underlay on the left is turned over on the two short sides, right sides together, and then ironed in the fold.
You position and secure the prepared shoulder bars on the notches in the cut.
The zipper for the left side of the body is attached and secured with an auxiliary seam. Then the prepared underlay is stitched left, right sides together.
Finished left side of body.
Now the facing is sewn on both front edges of the right and left side of the body.
The inner and outer collars are folded together and the upper seam is closed.
The hem facing at the front is sewn together with the hem facing at the back, right sides facing, and the seam allowances are ironed apart.
Now the finished hem facing can be brought together with the sewn facing. Make sure to leave 1.5cm of space so that there is enough seam allowance for sewing on the lining later. The seam allowances are ironed apart.
Now you can stitch the hem facing to the hem right sides together.
Then the seam allowance is flat-stitched as far as you can get. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also means that the facing automatically lies inwards and does not roll out if it is not topstitched separately. Only the facing is stitched close to the edge of the seam allowance. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side.
The inner slip on the front right is secured by an extra quilting. To do this, sew through the panel in the shadow of the seam.
Before you start working on the sleeves, the hems are ironed according to the notches in the pattern. The upper sleeve is sewn together with the matching lower sleeve right sides together.
The upper sleeve is sewn together with the upper sleeve right sides together.
The upper sleeve is folded up and with it the seam allowances, which are stitched to the upper sleeve at the width of a foot. According to Knips, the prepared arm bar is positioned and secured in the cut. The snaps are pierced according to the markings on the cut. In any case, stick a small piece of insert under the position of the printers so that they cannot tear out.
Finally, the inner arm seam is closed. As a result, the arm bar is bordered in the seam.
This is a closed sleeve with arm tabs and snaps. The second printer gives you the opportunity to tighten the sleeve.
Next, sew the sleeves into your jacket. Make sure that the side seams and the snaps are on top of each other. The seam allowances are ironed into the sleeves. Note that the epaulette snap button requires a counter button on the shoulder seam. We advise you to stick a piece of insert to this area so that the seam does not come undone and everything is a little more stable.
Before the lining is sewn to the facing, the seam allowances of the collar are placed on top of each other and secured with an auxiliary seam on the lower seam allowance.
Now comes the food. Put the lining into your jacket the way it looks sewn in, but with the right side of the lining on the right side of the fabric.
To make feeding easier for you, we have a video for you here.
Begin by sewing the lining to the front facing. Start and end at the point where you left the 1.5 cm open. Sew all the way around, making sure the snaps and shoulder seams match. The seam allowances of facing and lining are ironed flat into the lining.
Then sew the lining together with the 1 cm hem facing. Only close the first and the last 5 cm of the hem here. You still need the large hem opening for processing the sleeves.
Then fold the hem facing up and sew the seam allowances from the hem and front facings together. You close, so to speak, the 1.5 cm that you left open at the beginning.
Then you sew the sleeve lining to the sleeve hem. So that it doesn't get twisted, we first push the lining properly into the sleeve and pin the lining at the hem with a pin. Only then do we pull out the sleeve and lay the rest.
Then you grab the seam allowance of the lining armhole at shoulder seam height and sew it together with a strip of lining (approx. 3-4cm long) so that the lining has approx. 3cm to play with. Then sew the strip to the outer fabric in the same position.
The seam allowances under the armpits of lining and fabric are held together with a bar.
Now you can close the hem, leaving a gap in the middle so you don't have to turn the entire jacket through the armhole. Sew up the remaining piece of hem by reaching through the armhole and pulling out the open hem to sew up.
Now all you have to do is sew up the armhole in the lining and your jacket is finished.
The prepared collar bar can now be positioned at the markings on the right collar, needled and stitched with a 1cm seam allowance. However, the seam allowance is then trimmed by 0.5 cm. Then the collar bar is folded to the side and stitched the width of a stitching foot. In this way, the cut seam allowance disappears under the quilting seam. Pay attention to the roll width of the outer collar bar, otherwise the bar will stick out.
Finally, hammer in the remaining snaps.
Your SVEA is ready !
If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send usan email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible.
You need from fabric:
The bottom seam of the outer collar is sewn to the neckline of the front and back pieces.
Begin by sewing the lining to the front facing. Start and end at the point where you left the 1.5 cm open. Sew all the way around, making sure the snaps and shoulder seams match. The seam allowances of facing and lining are ironed flat into the lining. 
