NÄHANLEITUNG WINTERMANTEL “JUSTINA”

SEWING INSTRUCTIONS WINTER COAT “JUSTINA”

Sewing a coat is usually more challenging, but our Justina coat pattern is not. The details, such as a stand-up collar and seam pockets in the transverse dividing seams, are not difficult to work with. The dropped shoulders, the slight O-shape and the mix of fabrics result in a casual and comfortable fit.

Length at center back = 88-90cm

In this pattern, Justina was sewn from a quilted fabric and the sleeves from corduroy.

Required material:

We recommend a padded outdoor fabric with a coarse knit or a soft boiled fabric.

Size 34-42 outer fabric 1.40 m 140cm wide
Size 44-50 outer fabric 1.60 m 140cm wide
Size 34-42 lining 1.60 m 140cm wide
Size 44-50 lining 2.10m 140cm wide
Size 34-50 rope 1.10 m 140cm wide
Size 34-50 inlay 1.10 m 90 cm wide
Size 34-50 snaps 4 24mm diameter

cutting:

Be sure to cut the quilting correctly. The quilting should overlap at the dividing seams. Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric, lining fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can lay the collar, back piece and back facing in the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing pattern pieces here.

You need from (quilting) fabric:

  • 1x back part in break
  • 1x collar in break
  • 2x pocket bags in opposite directions
  • 2x front part-top in opposite directions
  • 2x front middle in opposite directions
  • 2x lower front part in opposite directions

You need from (knitting) fabric:

  • 2x sleeves in opposite directions
  • 2x piping below
  • 2x piping top

also with insert:

  • 1x collar in break
  • 1x document-back in the rupture
  • 2x receipt front opposite

You need from food:

  • 1x back in fracture
  • 2x front part in opposite directions
  • 2x sleeves in opposite directions
  • 2x pocket bags in opposite directions

Sewing instructions:

Before processing, you have to stitch the cut quilting fabric all around with a seam the width of a quilting foot and thereby fix the individual layers of fabric. You will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine to sew this coat, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing!

First you take the lining and topstitch the back pleat in the center back, right sides together. To do this, sew 5 cm down at the neckline and 5 cm up at the lower knot.

Then iron the movement fold in the back part to the left side of the body.

The next step is to sew off the bust darts of the lining front parts. A simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, snap by snap, tapering from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart does not bag) on ​​the wrong side of the fabric, following the exact transfer of the pattern and carefully observing the marking. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and finish the side seam nicely straight.
So that you don't have to bartack at the top, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch.

You iron the dart content upwards.

Now place the lining front parts and the lining back part on top of each other, right sides together, and close both the shoulder and side seams. Pay attention to the seam allowances in the pattern and iron them backwards.

Sew the sleeves together, right sides together. The left sleeve is left open about 10cm for turning the coat later. Pay attention to the seam allowance in the pattern and then iron it apart.

Now place the sleeve, right sides together, in the prepared lining piece and sew everything together.

This angular sleeve shape is created by the overcut shoulders. At corners, seam allowances are cut with scissors. The seam allowance can spread out nicely when turning and doesn't bother. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the point and from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that won't fray as quickly after trimming.

Now come to the piping. The two upper pipings are placed, left on left, in the fold and stitched through with an auxiliary seam the width of a stitching foot to secure.

Place a piping, right sides together, on the top quilted front piece and sew the two together. Note that the fold of the piping is at the top.

Now place the middle front piece, right sides together, on the piping and stitch everything together.

Place the quilted pocket bag, right sides together, on the center front piece and sew the two together.

The seam allowances are then flat-stitched.

Sew the lower piping to the edge of the lower front piece, as you did to the upper dividing seam. Then place this, right sides together, on the middle front part and stitch both together. Make sure you only stitch up to the markings, otherwise you will sew up the pocket opening.

Sew the pocket bag made of lining, right sides together, to the lower front piece. To do this, you push the quilted pocket bag a little out of the way.

You also topstitch the lining pocket bag flat on the seam allowances.

Now place both pocket bags, right sides together, on top of each other and use them to topstitch the bag all the way around.

The front pieces are super prepared and you can place both, right sides together, on the back piece and close both the side and shoulder seams. Pay attention to the seam allowances in the pattern. The seam allowances are always spread apart in the following steps because the quilted fabric cannot be ironed.

The sleeves are made of knitted fabric and we provided them with an extra fleece because the material is quite thin or normal thick and the fleece keeps the sleeves extra warm. Close the inner arm seam of both sleeves and pay attention to the seam allowances in the pattern. The seam allowances are spread out or ironed (depending on whether the fabric can be ironed).

The hem of the sleeve is extra secured with a fixation on the seam allowances. The hem is then sewn all the way around with a witch stitch.

Now you also sew the sleeves, right sides together, into your almost finished coat.

A special detail of our Justina is the high stand-up collar. Here I will show you the easiest way to process it. Lay both cuts, quilted collar and knitted collar, right sides together and stitch through the top edge of the collar.

Then the seam allowances are flat-stitched as far as you can get. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also causes the inner collar, if it is not topstitched, to automatically lie inwards and not roll out. Only the knitted collar is stitched close to the edge on the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Now turn both collars inside out, place the seam allowances in the direction of the knitted fabric and sew the short stretches together on the outside. Trim the seam allowances of the corners of the collar a little, for better turning later.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the processing of the collar.

You can also prepare the facings by sewing the back facing together with the front facing, right sides together, and ironing out the seam allowances.

Now stitch this, right sides together, to the front edge of the front part, …

... at the hem you leave a 1cm seam allowance on the facing for later processing with the lining.

Then the seam allowances are flat-stitched as far as you can get. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, it also means that the facing automatically lies inwards and does not roll out if it is not topstitched separately. Only the facing is stitched to the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Now you process the upper corners of the overlap and underlap in the front part. Lay the seam allowances in the direction of the facing and topstitch the facing and front piece, right sides together, up to the notch. Cut out the seam allowances of the corner.

Sew the outer collar (quilted fabric) to the back part, right sides together,…

... and sew the inner collar (knitted fabric) onto your prepared facing, right sides together. The seam allowances are cut at the corners.

Iron or spread apart the seam allowance of the inner and outer collar,…

... so that you can then place the collar, wrong sides together, on top of each other and sew the seam allowances together, stitching foot wide.

Fold the hem of your jacket up at the snaps and fix it on the seam allowances of the side seams with an auxiliary seam. We also recommend that you baste your hem all around with witch stitch. Make sure to leave a 1.5cm seam allowance for the lining.

FYI: We have prepared a video in which Ellen explains step by step how best to insert the lining into a jacket:

Now stitch your prepared lining, right sides together, all the way around your slip.

The knitted sleeves are now sewn together with the lining sleeves, right sides together.

You secure the armpit point on the seam allowances of both fabrics.

This is what the processed lining sleeve looks like turned inside out.

Now all you have to do is close the hem of your new coat. Make sure you leave at least 10cm open in the center back. After turning your jacket right side out through this opening, close your hem completely through the opening in the left sleeve. You also have to close the edge of this opening. The turned jacket is pulled into shape and the seam allowances of the hem ironed upwards.

As a last step, all you have to do is put your snaps in the right positions on the jacket and sew them in place.

Your JUSTINA is ready !

If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your Dagmar and Ellen.

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