Helene is an ideal pattern for beginners. The casual shirt is figure-hugging in the upper part and goes into an A-shape towards the hem, which ends in side tips. A flowing jersey should be used for the t-shirt .

Length at center back = 64-70cm

In these instructions, Helene was sewn from a soft jersey.

Required material:

We recommend a flowing jersey or an elastic lace.

Sizes 34-44 jersey 1.70 m 140cm wide
Sizes 46-50 jersey 2.10m 140cm wide


Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can lay the front and back pieces in the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or with chalk and mark the ends of the darts, note that from size 42 bust darts must be processed. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.

You need from fabric:

  • 1x front part in break
  • 1x back part in break
  • 1x neck strap
  • 2x sleeves in opposite directions

Sewing instructions:

To sew this shirt you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.

Be sure to use a jersey needle and use a stretch stitch, i.e. if you are sewing with a home sewing machine you should use either a zigzag stitch or the tripartite elastic stitch and then all seam allowances again with a zigzag stitch or another appropriate stitch neaten so they don't fray. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing!

We start sewing the bust darts from size 42. If you are sewing a size smaller than 42, you can skip the two steps. A simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, snap by snap, tapering from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart does not bag) on ​​the wrong side of the fabric, following the exact transfer of the pattern and carefully observing the marking. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and finish the side seam nicely straight.
So that you don't have to bartack at the top, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch.

You iron the dart content upwards.

To prepare the Helene, the hem and straight side seam of the front and back sections are ironed twice, each 0.7 cm.

Then the front and back pieces are placed on top of each other, right sides together, and sewn together. The seam allowances are neatened together and ironed to the back.

The shoulders are also sewn together, right sides together, and neatened. Iron the seam allowances towards the back.

Before you close the underarm seam of the sleeve, we recommend ironing the hem according to the marking on the pattern. Then the sleeve is sewn together, right sides facing, and the seam allowances are neatened together. Again, iron the seam allowances backwards.

Now you can neaten the hem of the sleeve...

... lay in the break and stitch through.

The finished sleeve is sewn into the armhole. Note that the V-notch marks you in the sleeve at the front, that means V-notch sleeve on V-notch front piece. The seam allowances of the sleeve seam are overcast together and ironed into the sleeve.

The previously prepared hem with the tips is stitched through just under the edge.

The neck tape is prepared for ironing by ironing the fold. Then the fold is opened, the strip is placed, right sides together, sewn together and closed. The seam allowances are ironed apart and the neck strip is placed in the previously ironed fold, left sides together.

To ensure that the stretch is jersey, the neck strap is provided with an auxiliary seam and can then no longer expand too much.

Sew the neck strip, right sides together, onto the finished body part. The seam of the strip meets the right shoulder seam. The seam allowances are neatened together and ironed down.

So that this stays down, the seam allowance is flat-stitched with a seam just under the edge.

Your HELENE is ready ! 

If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your Dagmar and Ellen.

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