The Liem jersey dress is for those days when comfort is paramount. The style is sporty, casual, while the drawstring in the waist sets an attractive accent and gives the dress its proportions. Even on cold days you are armed with Liem , simply pull our sweater pattern Lotta underneath and winter can come.
Center back length = 102-106cm
In this pattern, the jersey dress Liem was sewn from a brushed sweat fabric.
We recommend a slightly firmer jersey.
|Size 34-42||outer fabric||1.90 m||140cm wide|
|Size 44-50||outer fabric||2.35m||140cm wide|
Cut out the pattern pieces from your fabric . Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can lay the front and back pieces in the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center.
- 1x front part in break
- 1x back in break
- 2x sleeves in opposite directions
- 2x sleeve hems
- 2x binding tape
- 1x tunnel band in the break
- 1x upper collar in break
- 1x undercollar in break
- 1x document front part in break
- 1x document back part in break
To sew this dress you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.
Be sure to use a jersey needle and use a stretch stitch, i.e. if you are sewing with a home sewing machine you should use either a zigzag stitch or the tripartite elastic stitch and then all seam allowances again with a zigzag stitch or another appropriate stitch neaten so they don't fray. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern.
Happy sewing! First, grab the front piece. Here you have to sew the darts. To do this, place the two snaps on top of each other at the side seam and sew the tip from there up to 1 cm behind the marking. Sew the tip nice and flat so that there is no “bag”. Then iron the dart content up to the armhole. Now neaten all the side seams and the shoulder seams with the overlock or with a zigzag stitch. Next, place the front and back pieces right sides together and sew the shoulders together.
Do the same with the two side seams. Then it goes to the ironing board and you can iron the side and shoulder seams apart.
The drawstring, which is stitched onto the dress, must first be ironed by 1 cm on both long sides. Then the two ends are ironed by 1.5 cm. With this finished ironed tape it's back to the sewing machine. With a normal stitch you sew the ironed ends of the tunnel band tightly. From this seam 1cm away follows another seam. You fasten this prepared band along the marking points on the back and front part. Then you stitch the band tightly on the two long sides of the dress, so that a drawstring is created. Now you still need the binding tape. For this you sew the two bands together at one end at 1cm and iron this seam apart. Then fold the band in half on the long side, right sides together. Now stitch this strip together on both short sides and on the long side. Make sure that the seam lies on top of the seam in the middle and you leave a 7cm opening on the long side through which you can turn the ribbon right side out. Once you've done that, turn the tube over so the seam allowance is inside the band and iron the band flat. You can then stitch the binding tape 0.5 cm wide from the edges flat, thereby also closing the turning opening. Next up is the collar. To do this, place the upper collar on the lower collar, right sides together. Don't be fooled by the fact that the upper collar is a few millimeters larger than the lower collar. As a result, the collar has enough roll width when turned down and lies more nicely on the shoulder. When sewing, simply hold the longer collar a little in the other places, this width will iron out later. The seam allowance on the collar is 0.7 cm. Clip off the seam allowance in the corners, turn the collar and topstitch it close to the edge. Once you've done that, you can sew the collar to the neckline. Make sure that the undercollar (the collar that is a few millimeters shorter) is also on the bottom and that the center of the collar is also on the center of the back piece. Now comes the clipping document, which consists of two parts. First you need to neaten the four ends of the two slips. Then you put the ends right sides together and sew them together with 1cm, so that you have a kind of ring. You fix the neckline seam with a fixing tape/insert strip as shown in the picture. Place the finished ring on the neckline of the dress right sides together and sew the whole thing together with 0.7 cm. It is best to start in the center back. When you have reached the point in the center front, lift the quilting foot briefly so that you can sew a clean corner. After turning over, use the scissors to cut into the seam allowance of the tip, this will help the tip lay better and look nicer. Also clip the curves of the neckline a bit in this way. Once you have stitched the facing all the way down to the neckline, turn the facing inside the dress and iron the seam nice and flat so none of the facing “shine” through. Neaten the inside edge of the neckline facing with the serger or a zigzag stitch, then topstitch the facing around the neckline. Once close to the edge and once 2.5 cm at a distance from the edge Next up are the sleeves. To do this, first clean up the long side edges of both sleeves. Then fold each sleeve in half and sew the sleeve seam right sides together. Make sure that you end up with two different sleeves, one left and one right, you can iron the seam allowance here too. You still need the cuffs for the sleeves. Fold the rectangular cuff pattern pieces vertically in the middle and then sew the two short sides together. Then you iron this seam apart and iron the cuff flat on the long side. The cuffs are now sewn to the hem of the sleeve. Make sure that the seam of the waistband and the seam of the sleeve match. When sewing, it helps if you tuck the cuff into the sleeve. Then you have to finish this seam with the serger. The hem is not finished yet, you can still stitch the seam allowance onto the sleeve from the right side. This seam is sewn close to the edge of the attachment seam. The finished sleeves can now be sewn onto the dress. First, pin the sleeve into the armhole. Make sure that the side seam of the sleeve and the side seam of the dress line up. Then neaten the open edges with the serger. Now only the hem is missing. Clean this first with the overlock. Then iron the hem allowance inwards by 3 cm. Finally, all you have to do is topstitch the hem at 2.7cm from the right.
Your LIEM is ready!
If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to email@example.com. We will answer you as soon as possible.
Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!
Sincerely, your Dagmar and Ellen.