The Liem jersey dress is for days when comfort is paramount. The style is sporty, casual, with the drawstring at the waist adding an attractive accent and giving the dress its proportions. Even on cold days you are prepared with Liem , just put our Lotta sweater pattern underneath and winter can come.
Length at center back = 102-106cm
The Liem jersey dress in these instructions was sewn from a roughened sweat fabric.
We recommend a slightly firmer jersey.
Cut the pattern pieces out of your fabric . Lay the selvedges parallel to the middle so that you can place the front and back pieces in the fold. The pattern pieces should all lie face up. Always align the thread arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the clips from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Clip the seam allowance in the fabric fold because this is always a center.
- 1x front part in the break
- 1x back part in the break
- 2x sleeves opposite
- 2x sleeve hems
- 2x binding tape
- 1x tunnel band in the break
- 1x upper collar in the break
- 1x undercollar in the break
- 1x receipt front part in the break
- 1x slip on the back part in the break
To sew this dress you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the raw edges.
Be sure to use a jersey needle and use a stretchy stitch, i.e. if you are sewing with a household sewing machine, you should use either a zigzag stitch or the three-part elastic stitch and then all seam allowances again with a zigzag stitch or another appropriate stitch Neaten so they don't fray. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern.
Have fun sewing! First, take the front part. Here you have to sew the darts. To do this, place the two clips on the side seam together and sew the tip from there to 1cm behind the marking. Sew the tip so that it ends nicely flat so that no “bag” is created. You then iron the dart contents up to the armhole. Now overlock all the side seams and the shoulder seams with the overlock or with a zigzag stitch. Next, place the front and back pieces together, right sides together, and sew the shoulders together.
Do the same thing with the two side seams. Then it goes to the ironing board and you can iron the side and shoulder seams apart.
The drawstring, which is stitched onto the dress, must first be ironed by 1cm on both long sides. Then the two ends are ironed over by 1.5cm. With this finished ironed band, it's back to the sewing machine. Using a normal stitch, sew the ironed ends of the tunnel tape tight once. Another seam follows 1cm away from this seam. Attach this prepared ribbon along the marking points on the back and front. Then stitch the ribbon onto the dress on both long sides, so that a drawstring is created. Now you still need the binding tape. To do this, sew the two straps together at one end at 1cm and iron this seam apart. Then fold the ribbon in half on the long side, right sides together. Now stitch this strip together on both short sides and on the long side. Make sure that the seam is on top of the seam in the middle and that you leave a 7cm opening on the long side through which you can turn the band right side out. Once you've done this, turn the tube over so the seam allowance is in the band and iron the band flat. You can then stitch the binding ribbon flat 0.5cm wide from the edges, while also closing the turning opening. We continue with the collar. To do this, place the upper collar right sides together on the lower collar. Don't be put off by the fact that the upper collar is a few millimeters larger than the lower collar. This means that the collar has enough roll when folded down and sits more nicely on the shoulder. When sewing, simply hold the longer collar slightly in the other places; this width will be ironed later. The seam allowance on the collar is 0.7cm. Clip away the seam allowance in the corners, turn the collar over and topstitch it close to the edge. Once you've done this, you can sew the collar to the neck hole. Make sure that the undercollar (the collar that is a few millimeters shorter) is also at the bottom and the middle of the collar is also in the middle of the back. Now comes the cut-out document, which consists of two parts. First you have to neaten the four ends of the two facings. Then place the ends together, right sides together, and sew them together at 1cm so that you have a kind of ring. You fix the neckline seam with a fixing tape/insert strip as shown in the picture. Place the finished facing ring on the neckline of the dress, right sides together, and sew the whole thing together with 0.7cm. It's best to start in the middle back. When you have reached the lace in the middle front, briefly lift the quilting foot so that you can sew a clean corner. After falling, use scissors to cut into the seam allowance of the lace, this will make the lace lay better and look nicer. In this way, also clip the curves of the neck hole a little. Once you have completely stitched the facing onto the neckline, turn the facing inside the dress and iron the seam flat so that none of the facing “shows through”. Neaten the inside edge of the neck hole facing with the overlock or a zigzag stitch, then stitch the facing to the neckline all around. Once close to the edge and once 2.5cm from the edge Next are the sleeves. To do this, first neaten the long side edges of both sleeves. Then fold each sleeve in half and sew the sleeve seam together, right sides together. Make sure that you end up with two different sleeves, one on the left and one on the right. Here too you can iron the seam allowance apart. You still need the cuffs for the sleeves. Fold the rectangular cuff pattern pieces vertically in the middle and then sew the two short sides together. Then iron this seam apart and iron the cuff flat on the long side. The cuffs are now sewn to the hem of the sleeve. Make sure that the seam of the waistband and the seam of the sleeve match up. When sewing, it is helpful if you tuck the cuff into the sleeve. Then you have to finish this seam with the overlock. The hem isn't finished yet, you can still sew the seam allowance from the right side onto the sleeve. This seam is sewn close to the edge of the base seam. The finished sleeves can now be sewn onto the dress. First pin the sleeve into the armhole with pins. Make sure that the side seam of the sleeve and the side seam of the dress line up. Then neaten the open edges with the overlocker. Now all that's missing is the hem. First clean this up with the overlock. Then iron the hem allowance 3cm wide inwards. Finally, all you have to do is stitch the hem at 2.7cm from the right.
Your LIEM is ready!
If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please contact us by email at firstname.lastname@example.org. We will respond to you as quickly as possible.
Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!
Warmest regards, Dagmar and Ellen.