Collar processing

A blazer also needs a collar. First, the collar stays are sewn to the collar and the seam allowances are ironed open.

In this collar design, the seam on the right and left was also stitched close to the edge.

Then place the two collars on top of each other and sew them together. You can either press the seam allowance to one side or sew it to the undercollar just next to the seam.

Here in our glossary, " flatstitching seam allowances" is also described in more detail. The seam allowances are then flatstitched as far as possible. This method not only facilitates the final ironing, but also ensures that the facing, if not topstitched separately, automatically tucks inward rather than curling up. Only the facing is stitched onto the seam allowances, close to the edge. The stitching line is then visible only from the wrong side of the fabric, not from the right side.

Next, sew the shorter sections together. Don't sew the entire length, but leave 1 cm open at the end. Press the seam allowances open.

Here in our glossary, “ trimming seam allowances” is also described in more detail. For curves and corners, seam allowances are shortened with scissors and then cut or trimmed. This prevents the corners from becoming too thick when turned, and the seam allowances can be laid flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. For this reason, we recommend sewing just before the point and away from it with a shorter stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that won't fray as quickly after trimming. After turning, you should shape the corners with a corner and edge former and then iron them. Depending on your sewing project, you can topstitch the outer edges; this makes them nice and flat and secures them.

Now the prepared collar can be inserted into the previously prepared torso.

When attaching the collar, it's best to start at the front. The undercollar is sewn to the front and back pieces. The upper collar is attached to the facings. Sew the undercollar from the notch in the front piece to the corner.

Then place the facing on the front piece and sew the section from the front edge to the notch.

Open the whole thing up again and sew the upper collar to the front facing from the notch to the corner. Repeat these three steps on the other end of the collar.

Next, sew the back neckline facing to the front facing (on both sides). Then you can completely insert the collar.

Clip the corners just before the seam ( the yellow lines in the photo). If you don't do this, you won't be able to turn the collar over to sew it to the back neckline. However, we recommend making this cut while sewing: sew, stop in the corner, clip, being careful not to cut the thread, turn the collar over, and continue sewing.

Sew the undercollar from the corner across the center back to the other corner at the neck hole.

Do the same with the upper collar on the neckline. Important: You can sew a hanger into this seam.

This is what the finished collar looks like from the inside. You should now press the seam allowance open, and the arrows tell you what happens next. Fold the seam allowances together...

… and sew the seam allowances together.

The collar is finished.

Have lots of fun with it.