The pattern piece for the upper back is called the yoke. The back part can be sewn on with folds or ruffles. The yoke often ends at the shoulder seam, but can also be slightly forward. Fits can be straight, slanted or pointed. If you look at a piece of clothing from the inside, you will see that the yoke is doubled, i.e. a yoke is counter-sewn from the inside. The seams are so nicely hidden and are clean.
First you pin the yoke parts to the back part with pins. The back part is enclosed by the yokes. Place the yoke, which will be on the outside, right sides together. Place the inner yoke with the right side on the left side of the back piece. The clip in the center back allows you to stack all pattern pieces well. Starting from the center back, use pins to stick left and right to the end of the seam.
These three layers are now sewn together with a 1cm seam allowance, so that the first seam is covered.
You fold both yokes up and iron the seam nicely. A little tip: We've stitched the yokes a foot's width from the seam.
Now it's time to connect the yoke to the front piece in the shoulder area. This method is also called the “burrito method” .
First, only sew the upper yoke together with the respective front piece, right sides together.
Once you've done this with both shoulders, next roll up the back piece up to the yoke seam. In the picture you can see that the inner yoke is down. Do the same with the front pieces, then fold the upper shoulder edge onto the lower shoulder edge. Sew these three layers together. Then you can simply pull out the contents and your yoke is beautifully finished. We like to reach between the seams of the armholes, because the neckline tends to stretch and could become distorted.
Your yoke may be too narrow at this point. In this case you have to turn the package through the neckline. It is best if you sew a support seam at the neckline at the very beginning of the yokes. To do this, simply sew along the edge with a large stitch, foot-wide, securing the seam is not necessary. This protects the fabric from puckering when turning, which can happen very quickly in places where the grain runs at an angle. The seam allowances point upwards, i.e. into the yoke, and lie neatly between the inside and outside yokes.
Iron the whole thing flat, being careful not to flatten the curl.
To continue working, we stapled the layers together at the neckline and armholes with a large stitch. So nothing moves anymore.
You should also neaten the yoke at the armholes if you want to add a sleeve.
Have lots of fun with it