The basis is our Whitney jacket sewing pattern.
And here's how it works:
You cut all the pieces as in Whitney's original instructions , EXCEPT:
- You don't need the front receipt.
- You have to decide here whether you want a hooded or a neckband version.
- The lower front piece is cut on the fold, so remove the seam allowance at the front edge.
If you want a sweater without a small zipper, then...
- Is the front yoke also cut on the fold?
- And for the neckline band, the front curve is omitted; instead, the front center is cut on the fold and the back center gets a seam allowance.
Let's get started with the sewing, the version with the mini zipper!
First, measure your zipper. We chose a 10cm long zipper.
Transfer this length (10cm in our case) to the yoke from the top edge and make a mark or notch there (red mark). You will need to sew up to this mark.
Before you sew, iron a small piece of thin interfacing onto both front yoke pieces at the point where the zipper ends, because we will need to cut there later. Then sew the two pieces together from the top up to your mark!
Press the seam allowance open and finish the edges. Grab a pen and ruler. This whole process is similar to sewing piping. We need guidelines! Measure 1 cm down from the top of the opening (green line). From there, I marked the width of the zipper teeth to the left and right. The pink square is as wide as the finished zipper (mine is 8 mm).
Next, cut a small section from the tip to the marked corners.
Change your sewing machine's presser foot to a half foot. Sew one side of the zipper 1 cm from the top edge.
Do the same on the other side.
Close the zipper. If necessary, trim the corners again up to the end of the seam and fold the fabric over the zipper. Pull out the small triangle at the end. Adjust everything well and then sew across it. Before stitching, check that you are not sewing over the metal zipper pull.
You're done with the zipper!
You can find everything else in the sewing instructions for the Whitney jacket!
