Pattern hack Clara

June 8, 2021

The Clara corset has a great fit thanks to its princess seams and can be worn with or without straps. Boning is incorporated into the back seams to provide the right support. Here's a little suggestion for alterations.

To get a little insight and some understanding, we have prepared a video for you here.

In this tutorial, Clara was sewn from a cotton and a pleated fabric.

Required materials:

We recommend a fabric with some strength, such as taffeta, silk or denim.

Sizes 34-50	Outer fabric	0.70 m	140 cm wide
Sizes 34-50	feed	0.70 m	140 cm wide
Sizes 34-50	insert	1.60 m	90 cm wide
Sizes 34-36	Ripper tlb.	1 piece	27 cm long
Size 38	Ripper tlb.	1 piece	28 cm long
Size 40	Ripper tlb.	1 piece	29 cm long
Sizes 42-44	Ripper tlb.	1 piece	30 cm long
Sizes 46-48	Ripper tlb.	1 piece	31 cm long
Size 50	Ripper tlb.	1 piece	32 cm long
Sizes 34-36	Corsage sticks	2 pieces	25 cm long
Size 38	Corsage sticks	2 pieces	26 cm long
Size 40-42	Corsage sticks	2 pieces	27 cm long
Size 44-46	Corsage sticks	2 pieces	28 cm long
Size 48-50	Corsage sticks	2 pieces	29 cm long

Sizes 34-38	pleated blinds	0.80 m	140 cm wide
Sizes 40-42	pleated blinds	0.90 m	140 cm wide
Sizes 44-46	pleated blinds	1.00 m	140 cm wide
Sizes 48-50	pleated blinds	1.15 m	140 cm wide

Cut change:

Before you can cut out your pattern pieces, you'll need to complete a few steps. To ensure a perfect fit, you can sew a sample piece out of muslin to check if your waist is where you marked and if the waist size fits you correctly. During your muslin fitting, you can simply mark out your measurements and transfer them to your pattern. During your muslin fitting, you can simply mark out your measurements and transfer them to your pattern.

I'm very tall (5'10"), so my waistline is a bit lower than in the original pattern. I tucked the extra width in the waistline at the dividing seams and transferred it to the pattern. However, you can also keep the default waistline here. To do this, draw the waistline on the front, side, and back pieces by connecting the notches on all the pattern pieces.

Now draw your 1cm seam allowances on your new cut edges and cut off the excess waist circumference.

Now transfer the correction you made to your lining pattern.

Cutting:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!

You will need the following materials for outer fabric and lining:

1x front part in the fracture
2x side panel front opposite
2x rear side panel opposite
2x back part opposite

For the pleated strip we recommend a rectangle with the dimensions:

Seam allowance included:

Size 34 = 71cm x 32cm

Size 36 = 75cm x 32cm

Size 38 = 79cm x 32cm

Size 42 = 87cm x 32cm

Size 44 = 92cm x 32cm

Size 46 = 97cm x 32cm

Size 48 = 103cm x 32cm

Size 50 = 109cm x 32 cm

Here you can also change the length of the pleated blinds.

Now you can fix your outer fabric with interfacing.

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!

The dividing seams of the outer fabric are sewn together, right sides together, and the seam allowances are ironed open. The side seam on the left side of the body is left open for later sewing on the detachable zipper.

Now you can also close the lining seams. Press the seam allowances of the back seams to the center back and topstitch them 0.8 cm wide. The corset boning can be pushed into the corresponding tunnel. Now turn your straps under and then iron them flat.

Next, sew on the straps. They are sewn, right sides together, to the corresponding markings.

Now the lining is turned to the outer fabric at the top edge. Then, the seam allowances are stitched flat, as far as possible. This method not only facilitates the final pressing but also ensures that the facing, if not topstitched separately, will automatically tuck inward and not roll out. Only the facing is stitched to the seam allowances, close to the edge. The stitching line will then only be visible from the wrong side of the fabric, not the right side.

Neaten the hem of the pleated fabric and topstitch it once after folding it in. To get your pleated fabric back into shape, you should iron it properly. Fold the side seam allowance of the pleated fabric under and topstitch it. Since it's a bit tricky to work with the pleated fabric, you can add a small auxiliary seam about 0.5 cm from the top cut edge. Then you can attach the outer fabric to the pleated fabric. You can turn the lining inside out after ironing the pleated seam allowance upwards.