For blouses, the crucial detail is either the sleeve or the collar, for Sil it's definitely the sleeve. Folded into folds at the sleeve cap, the lavish width of the short sleeves is gathered at the hem with a drawstring and elastic. The short-sleeved Sil is perfect as an airy blouse for the summer.
Length at center back = 61-69 cm
In this pattern, Sil was sewn from a softly falling viscose.
Required material:
We recommend a flowing silk or viscose.
| outer fabric | Sizes 34-42 | 1.30 m | 140cm wide |
| outer fabric | Sizes 44-50 | 1.60 m | 140cm wide |
| inlay | Sizes 34-50 | 0.35m | 90 cm wide |
| Buttons | Sizes 34-50 | 6 pieces | 8mm diameter |
| rubber | Sizes 34-50 | 0.80 m | 1.5cm wide |
cutting:
Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and also from the interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can lay the back piece and yoke in the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Cross markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing pattern pieces here.
You need from fabric:
- 1x back part in break
- 2x pass in break
- 2x front part in opposite directions
- 2x sleeves short opposite
also with insert:
- 1x document back part in break
- 2x receipt front part in opposite directions
- 4x anti-fold support
Sewing instructions:
To sew this blouse you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing!
We start by sewing the bust darts. The marking defines the tip of the dart, the two notches on the side seam define the depth of the dart. To do this, place the snaps on top of each other and sew on the wrong side of the fabric up to the marked dart point. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and finish the side seam nicely straight. You iron the dart content upwards.
Now we take on the two tailored yokes and the back part. Both yokes are placed on the back piece and stitched. Outside right sides together, inside right sides together.
Both yokes are turned over and ironed upwards and connected with the shoulder seams of the front part. In the photo you can see that both yokes were sewn on at the same time. To do this, crawl from the open neckline or armhole into the shoulder seam, grab the 3 seam allowances and sew everything together. There are different techniques how you can sew in a back yoke, all of them are great.
This is what your finished yoke looks like. If you want to secure the yoke again, you are welcome to stitch through the stitching the width of your stitching foot.
Next we close the hull. For this, the front and back parts are closed right sides together with a seam allowance of 1.5 cm. The seam allowances are neatened together and ironed to the back.
Slips reinforce a neckline and make it look clean because everything is tucked together. For this we bring the front cover parts together with the back cover. Then iron the seam allowances apart.
The lower longer curve is ironed with 1cm, for later easier processing.
Now we can take a look at the prepared document and the body part. First iron the button placket according to the pattern (fold in twice), then the facing is turned over with the front edge. To do this, the slip is sewn to the front part, right sides together, along the first break/first notch. Work this on both sides of the front edge. Both pattern pieces are shown together for better visibility.
The fold 1 is in its ironed position, while the fold 2 is opposite to the ironed position. In this way, the document can be folded all around with the neck hole. As you can see from the photo, I didn't iron the placket beforehand, but I would recommend it.
The seam allowances of the facing and body are cut in the curve.
Then the seam allowance is flat-stitched as far as you can get . This method not only makes ironing easier, but also means that the facing automatically turns inwards if it is not topstitched separately. Only the facing is stitched close to the edge of the seam allowance. The stitching line can then only be seen from the left inside, but not from the right side.
Unfold the button placket, turn the hem double over and then topstitch it 0.7 cm wide.
Now fold the button plackets back along the ironed folds and stitch through the slip and button placket in one go. The document is secured to the body and the button placket as well. To do this, stitch almost through the edge seen from the wrong side of the fabric, starting at the left hem, over the facing and ending at the right hem. Info: The yellow lines in the photo define the finished stitching line, seen from the right side of the fabric.
Short sleeve:
The folds in the sleeve head are folded together as described in the pattern and secured with an auxiliary seam the width of a quilting foot.
Then sew the sleeves together, right sides together, neaten the seam allowances and then iron them to the back.
According to the pattern, the hem is turned in and out twice and ironed.
Note that when you stitch through the tunnel, you leave a hole for the elastic.
Cut the sleeve hem elastic to the right length (circumference of your upper arm) and push it through the prepared tunnel with a safety pin. The ends of the elastic are sewn together.
Finally, you close the opening in the sleeve hem and your short sleeve is done.
The finished sleeve is sewn 1cm round into the armhole and the seam allowances are neatened together. Note the snaps in the cut.
The pleat support is folded twice and neatened together on the long side. The short side is gathered to 20 cm and also finished together. There is also a video here of how I processed the pleat support. Sew the pleat support into your armhole, see photo.
The blouse is almost ready. Now all the buttonholes on the right side of the body are punched through as marked in the pattern and the buttons on the front part on the left side of the body are sewn on accordingly.
Your SIL ADD-ON is ready !
If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible.
Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!
Sincerely, your Dagmar and Ellen.
