SEWING INSTRUCTIONS BIKER JACKET “ESTELLE”

For our biker jacket you should already have some sewing experience. But the effort is worth it, because the cool jacket is a real eye-catcher and can be easily combined with a wide variety of outfits. The shoulder pads and dividing seams are beautiful details and emphasize the narrow, feminine shape of the jacket .

Length at center back = 49 – 55 cm

→ To the pattern “Estelle”

In this pattern, Estelle was sewn from an elastic wool blend.

Required material:

We recommend a Romanite, a wool blend or soft faux leather.

Sizes 34-42	Outer fabric	1.50 m	140cm wide
Sizes 44-50	Outer fabric	2.00 m	140cm wide
Sizes 34-42	feed	1.30 m	140cm wide
Sizes 44-50	feed	1.40 m	140cm wide
Sizes 34-42	inlay	1.10 m	90cm wide
Sizes 44-50	inlay	1.20 m	90cm wide
Sizes 34-50	pad	1 pair	straight edge, thin
Sizes 34-50	Cotton line	2 strips	5cm x 30cm
Sizes 34-40	Zipper pockets	2x	12cm long
Sizes 42-44	Zipper pockets	2x	13cm long
Sizes 46-50	Zipper pockets	2x	14cm long
Sizes 34-36	Zipper at the front	1x	43 cm long tlb.
Sizes 38-42	Zipper at the front	1x	45 cm long tlb.
Sizes 44-50	Zipper at the front	1x	50 cm long tlb.
Sizes 34-50	Forming tape	approx. 2 m	12mm wide

Cutting:

Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric, lining fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can place the underlay, back lining and facing at the back of the fold. The pattern pieces should all lie face up. Always align the thread arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the clippings from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk. Clip the seam allowance in the fabric fold because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to roughly cut all outer fabric parts that will be completely covered with inserts first. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing cut parts here.

What you need from fabric:

• 1x undercut in the break
• 2x side panels at the back in opposite directions
• 2x back pieces opposite
• 2x pocket bags in opposite directions
• 2x upper sleeves in opposite directions
• 2x undersleeves in opposite directions

also glue the hems with inserts:

• 2x back part
• 2x rear side panel
• 2x upper sleeves
• 2x undersleeves

also with insert:

• 1x receipt at the back of the break
• 2x shoulder flaps in opposite directions
• 2x pocket receipt opposite
• 2x receipts opposite each other
• 2x side panels at the front in opposite directions
• 2x front part opposite

You need from food:

• 2x upper sleeve lining in opposite directions
• 1x back part lining in the break
• 2x undersleeve lining in opposite directions
• 2x pocket bag lining in opposite directions
• 2x front part lining opposite
• 2x side part-back lining in opposite directions
• 2x side part-front lining in opposite directions

You need from deposit:

• 2x back part adhesive
• 2x front part adhesive

also with form band:

• Neckline facings at the back
• Neckline facings at front
• Armholes on the side panels at the front
• Shoulders front parts

Sewing instructions:

To sew this jacket you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

Start your sewing work with the sleeves. The left upper sleeve is sewn together with the left lower sleeve, right sides together. Then iron the seam allowances apart.

The inner arm seam is also closed and the seam allowances are ironed apart.

Iron the hems of the sleeves using the clips.

The back pieces are closed, right sides together, in the middle back. Then you iron the seam allowances apart.

You can then attach the side pieces to the prepared back piece. Here too, the seam allowances are ironed apart.

A shaping band is sewn or ironed onto the back neck hole and the armholes to stabilize the garment. Sew or iron the shaping tape to the neck hole on the back and armhole within the seam allowance. You should measure the length of the forming tape on your paper cut to avoid differences in length.

This prevents the neckline of your garment from becoming distorted or bulging.

Now let's move on to the zippered pockets in the front. To do this, place the receipt pocket, right to right, on the front piece. Pay attention to the markings in the cut. Info: If the outer material is particularly thick, the receipt pocket can also be cut from lining plus insert. This means the thicker material doesn't push through to the outside. Note that you should check the pocket window length with the zipper length and the zipper length may need to be adjusted.

Now the middle can be cut open. The process is reminiscent of processing a piped pocket. A cut is made in the middle between the rectangle and a triangle is made at both ends.

Now you can turn the receipt inside out. The slip is then stitched flat as far as you can get to it. This method not only makes the final ironing out easier, but also means that the receipt, if it is not stitched, automatically folds inwards and does not roll out. Only the facing is stitched close to the edge on the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the left inside of the fabric, but not from the right side.

This is what your finished pocket window looks like from the left side of the fabric.

The pocket zipper can now be positioned under the pocket window and stitched all around when viewed from the right.

Finished pocket window with zipper from the right side of the fabric.

To make the pocket window a real pocket, the only thing missing is the pocket bags. The food bag is first stitched to the facing, right sides together…

... and then stitched flat onto the seam allowances. Only the feed bag is stitched onto the receipt with a narrow edge.

The pocket bag made of outer fabric is placed, right sides together, on the facing and stitched in place. Make sure to sew as close to the zipper opening as possible. This works best with half a foot.

Both bags are sewn together and you have a finished bag.

Now let's get to the food. The back side piece is sewn together, right sides together, with the back piece…

… the side panel at the front with the side panel at the back and…

... the front part with the side part at the front.

Sew the shoulders together, right sides together, according to the pattern, and then iron them backwards.

We continue with the back part. There is a lining fold in the center back. Place the back piece in the fold and sew the width of the fold about 2cm down and up from the edge and secure it well. Iron this fold in one direction up to the hem.

The right upper sleeve is sewn together with the right lower sleeve, right sides together, and the inner arm seam is also closed. However, an opening of approx. 20 cm is left on the left sleeve so that the hem can be closed later through this opening. Iron the seam allowances apart.

Both lining sleeves are turned to the right side and inserted into the previously prepared torso. Make sure that the side seams and the clips line up. Iron the seam allowances into the sleeve. The food can be put aside for now.

In the next steps we will show you how you can easily shorten a metal zipper. First, measure the section and transfer the exact length to your zipper.

To shorten the oversized prongs, pull them out from above using pliers. Please note that the first prong must be picked up after it has been bent open and put back on later so that the slider does not slide out upwards.

The zipper can now be worked into the front parts. Orientate yourself on the snapshots in the cut.

The zipper underlay is folded, right sides together, and stitched through on the short sides. For curves and corners, seam allowances are shortened and cut or cut off with scissors. This means that the corners don't become too thick when turned and the seam allowances can be laid nice and flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the tip and away from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that doesn't fray so quickly after cutting.

After turning, you should shape the corners with a corner and edge shaper and then iron them out.

The zipper underlay is pushed between the front facing and the front part of the left side of the body. You can also secure it beforehand with a large auxiliary seam to prevent unnecessary slipping. Note the clips in the cut and the exact position of the underlay under the zipper.

Finished underlay on the left side of the body.

The facings are processed on both front parts and ironed to the inside. Make sure that the hem edges are the same length at the bottom and iron the hem.

The front side part with the integrated pocket is then sewn to the prepared front part and the seam allowances are ironed apart.

In order to be able to sew the epaulettes onto the shoulder seam, they must be closed, right sides together, and the seam allowances must be ironed apart.

For the shoulder flaps, it's best to use our prepared ironing template and iron the seam allowances of the curve. So that the seam allowances fit nicely into the curve, they have to be cut.

The shoulder boards are fixed in the correct position and needled…

... and just stitched down the edge.

The front facings on the front piece are sewn to the facing at the back, right sides together…

... and then twisted at the neck hole of the back and front pieces. Trim the seam allowances nicely so that the curve fits well.

The slip is then stitched flat as far as you can get to it. This method not only makes the final ironing out easier, but also means that the receipt, if it is not stitched, automatically folds inwards and does not roll out. Only the facing is stitched close to the edge on the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the left inside of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Close the body by sewing the side seams of the front and back pieces together, right sides together. The seam allowances are ironed apart.

Before the sleeve is sewn into the torso, you should add an auxiliary seam to it so that the length of the arm does not expand when worn. To do this, sew an auxiliary seam within the seam allowance from the clip to the double clip. Next, sew the sleeve, right sides together, into your jacket. Make sure that the side seams and the clips line up. The seam allowances are ironed into the sleeve.

The cotton wool is worked into the arm ball within the seam allowance.

Decide for yourself whether you need extra padding for your shoulders. Some shoulders fill the arm area particularly well and do not need any extra support, like our model. We only used cotton wool for better shaping. Nevertheless, we will show you here how best to sew a padding for the shoulders: The padding is in the middle of the shoulder seam. Fix the short side with a short piece inside the seam allowance of the shoulder seam and the long side completely inside the seam allowance of the arm sleeve.

Now comes the food. Place the lining in your jacket the way it looks sewn in, but with the right side of the lining on the right side of the fabric. Now sew the lining along the edges of the facing.
The seam allowances of the facing and lining are ironed flat into the body.
To make feeding easier for you, we have a video for you here.

Then sew the sleeve lining to the sleeve hem. So that it doesn't get twisted, we first push the lining properly into the sleeve and pin the lining to the hem with a needle. Then we pull out the sleeve and lay the rest.

Then grab the seam allowance of the lining armhole at shoulder seam height and sew it together with a strip of lining (approx. 3-4cm long) so that the lining has approx. 3cm of leeway. Then sew the strip to the outer fabric in the same position.

The seam allowances under the armpit of the lining and fabric are held together with a bartack.

Now you can close the hem by leaving a gap in the middle so you don't have to turn the entire jacket through the armhole.

You sew the remaining piece of hem closed by reaching through the armhole and pulling out the still open hem to sew it up.

Now all you have to do is sew the armhole in the lining close to the edge and your jacket is finished sewing.