Our new blouse Qamar is ideal for the warmer days, casual and with long sleeves. The shape like a classic shirt blouse is something very special for Qamar due to the drawstrings in the underarm seams. You can use the ribbons to vary the length of the sleeves. The graduated hem, longer at the back than at the front, and the high side seam slits also contribute to the sporty/playful look.
Center back length = 76-78cm
In these instructions, the Qamar was sewn from a flowing viscose.
We recommend you a viscose or a light cotton fabric.
|Size 34-40||outer fabric||160cm long||140cm wide|
|Size 42-50||outer fabric||200cm long||140cm wide|
|Size 34-50||inlay||50cm long||90 cm wide|
Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interlining . Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can lay the front and back pieces in the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. (There is also a video about gluing and fixing pattern pieces here.)
You need from fabric:
- 1x back part in break
- 2x back passes in the break
- 2x front part in opposite directions
- 2x sleeves in opposite directions
- 2x collar stand in break
- 1x upper collar in break
- 1x undercollar in break
- 4x strips
also with insert:
- 1x upper collar
- 1x undercollar
- 2x jetty
To sew this blouse you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.
In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern.
First take both front parts and sew in the two bust darts. Iron this upwards towards the armhole.
Next, overcast the side seams of the front and back pieces, but only up to the slit.
Next up are the front pieces. Here you fold the button placket in twice and iron it flat. Then you stitch them off. Now you need the back piece and the two yokes. Place the right side of the yoke on the wrong side of the back piece and sew them together at 0.5cm. Then you turn the whole thing around and place the other yoke, right sides together, on the other side of the back piece. These three layers are now sewn together with a 1cm seam allowance, so the first seam is hidden. You fold both yokes up and iron the seam nicely. Small tpp: I stitched the yokes one foot away from the seam (here: dotted line). Now the shoulders are closed. First sew only the upper yoke together with the respective front piece. Once you've done this with both shoulders, lay your torso in front of you, just like in the picture. Next, roll up the back piece up to the yoke seam. In the picture you can see that the inner yoke is down. Do the same with the front pieces, then fold the upper shoulder edge onto the lower shoulder edge.
Sew these three layers together. Then you can simply pull out the contents and your yoke is beautifully finished. The seam allowances lie neatly between the inside and outside yokes.
The next step is the collar: put both collar parts on top of each other. Don't be surprised if one collar is a few millimeters larger than the other. This is on purpose, because the small collar is the undercollar. So please don't cut anything away from the upper collar, rather pin the collars in such a way that the width is maintained when sewing!
Now trim the seam allowance from the collar, trim the seam allowance to 0.7 cm at the closed edges and cut off the corner at an angle, then turn the collar over.
A little tip: I stitched the edge the width of a stitching foot. For the finished collar you still need the two bars. Place the collar in the middle between the two bars, the bars lie with the right side of the fabric facing the collar. Make sure that the snaps are on top of each other in the center back. There is another snap at the bottom of the jetty, the collar extends up to that point (here: snaps marked with pink lines).
Now sew the bars and the collar together. A little tip: leave 1 cm free at the beginning and end, so that you can better attach the collar to the neck hole later. Before you turn the bridge and iron it, cut away half of the seam allowance at the curve and snap in the seam allowance, this is particularly important in the curve at the front of the bridge. This makes the curve more beautiful. A little tip: I ironed the seam allowance from the inner bridge with 1cm while ironing (the bridge that was attached to the upper collar). Continue with the insertion: the collar is attached from the inside out. First, you sew a 1cm piece of tack to the neckline, so the right side of the tack is on the inside of the blouse. Then iron the seam allowance into the bridge and pin the ironed edge of the other bridge so that it covers the seam with which you sewed the first bridge.
You then sew the other bridge from the right side once all the way around with a tight edge. It is best to start with the stitching at the level of one of the shoulder seams.
Close the side seams of the blouse up to the slit (seam allowance 1.5 cm).
Iron the addition of the slit twice. Then you can turn the hem in twice and sew it in place. The slit is topstitched all around (actually the hem should already be topstitched!).
On the sleeve, first neaten the sleeve seam. Then fold in the hem twice and sew it in place. Only now do you close the sleeve (1.5 cm). Then iron the seam allowances apart.
Then it's a matter of creating the tunnel on both sides for the ribbons, for which the seam allowance is a little wider at this point. It is best to sew the tunnels from the left side. To do this, just fold in the cleansing seam and stitch it tightly. You now have a tunnel on either side of the sleeve seam.
You still need the ribbons for the drawstrings. You do this in four steps:
- Iron halfway.
- Unfold again and iron the edges inwards (about 4mm), then iron the strip down the middle again, making sure that the ironed edges are touching each other.
- Fold over one end of the strips and sew together. So the ending is wonderfully clean.
- Sew the strips together along the open side. Make sure the ribbons aren't wider than your finished tunnels.
And you're about to sew the sleeves into the bodice. I have marked on the cut which snap goes where. The special thing about the cut is that the seam of the sleeves is not on the side seam of the top.
If you follow the snaps, inserting the sleeves will go by itself. Finally, just neaten the seam allowance and iron it into the sleeves. Work the buttonholes according to the pattern in the right front piece (dressed). Sew on the buttons on the left front piece accordingly, with vertical buttonholes always position the buttons at the upper end of the buttonhole.
Your QAMAR is ready!
If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to email@example.com. We will answer you as soon as possible.
Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!
Sincerely, your Dagmar and Ellen.