Sewing instructions blouse Wilhelmina

Wilhelmina is the second project that we have implemented together with the blogger frau.aw alias Annika. After the Val pea coat, Wilhelmina is a very casual summer blouse with a button panel that reaches to the waist and a flat stand-up collar. Another special feature can be seen in the back, 6 stitched piping that runs slightly radially from the neckline towards the yoke.

Length at the back center = 72 cm

In this tutorial, Wilhelmina was sewn from a viscose fabric.

→ To the pattern “Wilhelmina”

Required material:

We recommend a thin cotton fabric, viscose or silk.

Sizes 34-42

• Outer fabric 1.70 m 140 cm wide

Sizes 44-50

• Outer fabric 2.30 m 140 cm wide

Sizes 34-50

• Insert 0.50 m 90 cm wide
• Buttons 6 pieces 10 mm diameter

Cutting:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interlining. First cut out pieces that are completely glued in a rough cut and then in a fine cut. There is also a video here about gluing and fixing pattern pieces. Lay the selvedges on top of each other so that you can lay the back piece and stand-up collar on the fold. The pattern pieces should all lie with the writing facing upwards. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm long cut with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Note that from size 46 onwards, bust darts must be processed. Notch the seam allowance on the fold of the fabric because this is always a middle. Markings define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to first roughly cut out all outer fabric pieces that are completely glued with interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out precisely.

You will need fabric:

• 1x front part in the fracture
• 1x back part in the fracture
• 2x sleeves opposite

also with insert:

• 2x cuffs
• 2x button placket (if you use a horizontal stripe like I did, you can also turn the button placket in the grain so that the stripe runs lengthways.)
• 2x collar in the break

You start with the back piece and sew the piping wrong side together from the neck hole to the end of the piping according to the cutting markings.

The piping is then ironed from the center back towards the armhole and fixed in the neck hole with an auxiliary seam.

Next we move on to the front part.

You cover the lower end of the cut with interlining so that the corner does not tear out later.

Iron the two button strips in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. On one side, iron the seam allowance 1cm. Please note that this must be done in the opposite way on the other button strip.

Now sew the strips right sides together to the front piece with the side that is NOT turned over!

The corners are cut and the seam allowance is ironed into the placket.

Now place the strips on top of each other so that they line up (the right strip lies on the left strip) and stitch across the inside from corner to corner, then neaten the seam allowances together.

Finally, topstitch the button panel all the way around from the right side, close to the edge. Make sure that you get the inside of the button panel.

Next up is the collar

You place it right sides together and stitch the top edge. Then you clip the "inner curve" and cut the seam allowance of the "outer curve" a little narrower and cut wedges into it.

The seam allowance is stitched flat onto the inner collar, then it is ironed.

Now iron the seam allowance on the lower edge of the inner collar by 1cm. This is not so easy with such a curve. As an aid, pull in a thread: you stitch a line with a long stitch length about 0.8cm from the edge and pull the thread a little at the ends so that the seam allowance folds over slightly on its own.

Now close the shoulder and side seams of the front and back pieces, right sides together. The seam allowances are neatened together and ironed to the front.

In sizes 46-50 there is a bust dart in the pattern, this must of course be sewn down and ironed upwards before closing the side seam. If you want to see how a dart is closed, have a look here or in the sewing instructions for the Adelaide blouse.

Now you can finish the hem. Use the same tactic here as you did with the collar: sew in a hem thread at around 0.8cm, then fold over 2x0.7cm and topstitch.

Back to the collar. This is now sewn into the neck hole.

You stitch the outer collar right sides together to the neck hole and iron the seam allowance into the collar.

Finally, topstitch the collar all the way around, taking hold of the inner collar as well.

On to the sleeve with cuff:

Iron the cuff lengthwise, wrong side to wrong side, in half and iron one edge (from the inside) 1cm.

You pull in the seam threads into the sleeve hem. They are an aid to achieving an even gathering. To do this, select the largest stitch setting on your sewing machine. You must not lock at the beginning and end of the auxiliary seams, but leave about 10cm of thread at each end. You sew 2 seams at a distance of about 1cm, namely at 0.5cm and 1.5cm from the cut edge, so that the later seam runs exactly between the two auxiliary seams. Pay attention to the pattern markings to see in which area the gathering should take place.

Now carefully pull the two bobbin threads on one side and push the fabric together until you have reached the seam width of the cuff. You can now distribute the gathers evenly.

Sew the cuff right sides together onto the sleeve hem and iron the seam allowance into the cuff. You can pull the stitching threads out again.

Now you can close the side seam in one go, neaten the seam allowance together (only necessary in the sleeve) and iron it forward.

The cuff is folded inwards along the ironed fold and stitched on close to the edge from the right side.

Now the sleeves can be sewn into the armholes, paying attention to the notches so that the left sleeve does not end up in the right armhole. The seam allowance is neatened together and ironed into the sleeve.