Sewing instructions for the Kora jacket

The Kora jacket's shape and style are reminiscent of a kimono . Whether you wear it short or lengthen it to create a coat , this pattern will keep you on trend. The wide sleeves, the wide trim along the neckline, and the tie belt emphasize the casual style. Since the jacket is without interlining or lining, even beginners can attempt it.

→ To the “Kora” pattern

Length in the center back 78 – 84 cm (We extended Kora by 35 cm for the coat length)

In this tutorial, Kora was sewn from a soft Tencel.

Required materials:

We recommend a flowing fabric such as viscose or silk.

Sizes 34-42	Outer fabric	2.00 m	140 cm wide
Sizes 44-50	Outer fabric	2.40 m	140 cm wide

Cutting:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Lay the fabric right side up. Place the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can place the back piece on the fold. The pattern pieces should all be laid with the writing facing up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm long slit with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Note that bust darts are required from size 44 upwards. Notch the seam allowance on the fold, as this is always the center. Markings define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.

You will need fabric:

• 1x back part in the fracture
• 2x front part opposite
• 2x collar/ panel opposite
• 2x sleeves opposite
• 4x pocket bags, 2 x opposite each
• 2x binding tape
• 1x belt loop

also with shaping tape (for very thin fabrics):

• 2x front fly side seam pocket (from notch to notch)

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as per marking clips!

To sew this jacket you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

In addition to the description, the colored lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

From size 44: We start by sewing the bust darts. After accurately transferring the pattern and paying close attention to the markings, a simple, straight dart is sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, notch by notch, tapering nicely from the widest point to the tip (so the dart doesn't bunch up). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand to avoid over-stitching and ensure the side seam is nice and straight.
To avoid having to tack the dart, sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Press the dart's contents upwards.

Next, we pre-iron the hems. Both the back hem,…

... as well as the hems of the front pieces, you have to iron them twice at 1cm and then at 3cm.

You also prepare the sleeves by double ironing.

Now I'll move on to the side seam pockets. I added a shaping tape (see above) to the opening to stabilize the fabric. Place one pocket pouch, right sides together, on one front piece. Use the notches in the pattern as a guide.

The seam allowances are then stitched flat. This method not only simplifies the final ironing, but also ensures that the pocket bag automatically folds inward and doesn't roll out. Only the pocket bag is stitched onto the seam allowances, close to the edge. The stitching line is then visible only from the wrong side of the fabric, not from the right side.

Iron the side seam pocket inwards.

The opening is now stitched through and secured to the width of the stitching foot, seen from the right side of the fabric.

Here you can see a view of the processing from the wrong side of the fabric, i.e. the inside.

Finally, place the matching pocket bag, right sides together, on top of the prepared pocket bag and stitch them together. Use the notch in the pattern as a guide. Neaten the seam allowances together.

Now take the back piece and place the front pieces, right sides together, on top of the back piece. Close the shoulder seams, neaten them together, and then iron them back.

Do the same with the side seams, but be careful not to accidentally sew the side seam pockets.

Now place the prepared hem in position and stitch close to the edge.

Now it's time for the sleeves. Close them with right sides facing and neaten the seam allowances. Press the seam allowances to the back.

Here, too, you stitch the prepared hems of the sleeves close to the edge.

Sew the sleeves into the armholes and neaten the seam allowances. Note the notches in the pattern.

The pocket bag template serves as a guide when stitching the pocket bags. Use the template to sew the bag in place.

The collar pattern piece is a facing with an integrated collar. First, sew the center back, right sides together, and press the seam allowances open. Next, iron the collar fold in place and then topstitch the short section, right sides together (see photo, yellow line). After turning, shape the corners with a corner and edge former and then iron them.

You add a stitching seam the width of your quilting foot to the long cut edge to prevent the two fabrics from slipping later.

Now you can sew the prepared facing to the jacket, right sides together, and neaten it together. Press the seam allowance toward the side seam.

After ironing, topstitch this seam close to the edge from the right side.

Here you can see a detailed view from the front.

The belt loops are sewn on in a round shape: Neaten one of the long sides of the belt loop strip. Then, with the raw edge facing wrong, iron it 1cm over, and then fold the finished edge 1cm over. Iron everything flat. Finally, topstitch 0.2cm all the way around the long sides.

Cut the belt loop in half to create two belt loops. Sew the belt loops together with a 0.5cm seam allowance, wrong sides together, in a circle. Iron the seam allowances open.

The notch in the side seam marks the position of the loop . The belt loop is stitched on so that the previous 0.5 cm seam allowance disappears underneath. As an alternative to a sewn belt loop, you can add a crocheted loop, especially for fine fabrics. In this video, we show you how.

Finally, add the tie. First, sew the center back, right sides together, and press the seam allowances open. Then, place the tie right sides together at the fold and stitch the long sections together. Leave a gap near the center back for turning. The slanted, short sides also remain open, because you now...

... iron the seam allowances open. Use a stick or wooden strip to help you do this.

After ironing, close the slanted, short sides. For curves and corners, trim the seam allowances with scissors and cut or trim. This prevents the corners from becoming too thick when turned, and the seam allowances can be laid flat. It's especially important that the seam isn't cut. Therefore, we recommend sewing just before the point and away from it with a shorter stitch length. This ensures a corner that won't fray as quickly after trimming.

Turn everything through the opening at the back center.

After turning the fabric inside out, shape the corners with a corner and edge shaper and then iron them. Depending on your sewing project, you can topstitch the outer edges to make them nice and flat and secure them. Don't forget to close the opening in the tie, keeping it close to the edge. Pull the tie through the belt loops.

Your KORA is ready !

If you are stuck or have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will respond as soon as possible. 

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your Schnittmuster-Berlin team.