The shape and style of the Kora jacket is reminiscent of a kimono , whether short or extended into a coat , with this pattern you are on trend. The wide sleeves, the wide trim along the neckline edges and the tie belt underline the casual model. Since the jacket has no insert or lining, even beginners can try it.

→ To the pattern “Kora”

Length in the middle back 78 – 84 cm (We extended Kora by 35cm for the coat length)

In these instructions, Kora was sewn from a softly falling Tencel.

Required material:

We recommend a flowing fabric such as viscose or silk.

Sizes 34-42 Outer fabric 2.00 m 140cm wide
Sizes 44-50 Outer fabric 2.40 m 140cm wide


Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Lay the fabric right side up. Place the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can place the back piece on the fold. The pattern pieces should all lie face up. Always align the thread arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all clips from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts, note that bust darts must be used from larger sizes 44. Clip the seam allowance in the fabric fold because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.

What you need from fabric:

  • 1x back part in the break
  • 2x front part opposite
  • 2x collar/panel in opposite directions
  • 2x sleeves opposite
  • 4x pocket bags, 2 x opposite each other
  • 2x binding tape
  • 1x belt loop

also with shaping tape (for very thin fabrics):

  • 2x front section side seam pockets (from clip to clip)

Sewing instructions:

To sew this jacket you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

From size 44: We start by sewing the bust darts. After transferring the pattern exactly and paying close attention to the marking, a simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the left side of the fabric, clip by clip, tapering nicely from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart doesn't bag). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and the side seam is nice and straight.
So that you don't have to lock at the tip, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Iron the dart contents upwards.

We continue with pre-ironing the hems. Both the hem of the back part,…

... as well as the hems of the front pieces you have to iron and iron twice, first at 1cm and then at 3cm.

You can also prepare the sleeves by double ironing.

I now come to working on the side seam pockets. I provided the procedure with a shaping band (see above) to stabilize the fabric. Place a pocket bag, right sides together, on one front piece. Orient yourself accordingly to the snapshots in the cut.

The seam allowances are then stitched flat. This method not only makes the final ironing out easier, but also ensures that the pocket bag automatically folds inwards and does not roll out. Only the pocket bag is stitched onto the seam allowances with a narrow edge. The stitching line can then only be seen from the left inside of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Press the side seam pocket to the inside.

The intervention is now stitched through the width of a foot, as seen from the right side of the fabric, and secured.

Here you can see a view of the processing from the left side of the fabric, i.e. inside.

Finally, place the opposite pocket bag, right sides together, on the prepared pocket bag and stitch both together. Orientate yourself on the snapshot in the cut. Finish the seam allowances together.

Now take the back piece and place the front pieces, right sides together, on the back piece. The shoulder seams are closed, serged together and then ironed to the back.

Do the same with the side seams, but be careful not to accidentally sew the side seam pockets closed.

Now place the prepared hem in position and stitch through the edge.

Now come to the sleeves. Close these, right sides together, and finish the seam allowances together. The seam allowance is ironed towards the back.

Here too, you stitch the prepared hems of the sleeves close to the edge.

Sew the sleeves into the armholes and finish the seam allowances together. Pay attention to the clips in the cut.

The pocket bag template serves as a guide when stitching the pocket bags. Use the template to sew the bag in place.

The collar pattern part is a panel with an integrated collar. First, sew the center back together, right sides together, and iron the seam allowances apart. Then iron the fold of your collar and then stitch the short stretch together, right sides together (see yellow line in photo). After turning, you should shape the corners with a corner and edge shaper and then iron them out.

Provide the long cut edge with an auxiliary seam the width of a quilting foot so that the two fabrics do not slip later.

Now the prepared panel can be sewn to the jacket, right sides together, and neatened together. Iron the seam allowance towards the side seam.

After ironing, stitch this seam just down the edge from the right.

Here you can see a detailed view from the front.

The belt loops are sewn on in a round shape: Finish one of the long sides of the strip for the belt loops. Then iron the unfinished edge 1cm left to left and then fold the finished edge over it by 1cm. Iron everything flat. Finally, stitch 0.2cm wide along each long side.

Cut the length of the belt loop in half and create two belt loops. The belt loops are closed round with 0.5cm seam allowance, left sides together. Iron the seam allowances apart.

The clip in the side seam marks the location of the loop . The belt loop is stitched on so that the previous seam allowance of 0.5cm disappears underneath. As an alternative to the sewn belt eyelet, you can attach a crocheted eyelet, especially for fine fabrics. In this video we show you how to do it.

Finally comes the binding tape. First, sew the center back together, right sides together, and iron the seam allowances apart. Then place the binding band right sides together in the fold and stitch the long stretch together. Leave a turning gap near the center back. Even the slanted, short sides remain open because you can now...

… iron the seam allowances apart. Use a stick or wooden strip to help you do this.

After ironing out, you also close the slanted, short sides. For curves and corners, seam allowances are shortened and cut or cut off with scissors. This means that the corners don't become too thick when turned and the seam allowances can be laid nice and flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the tip and away from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that doesn't fray so quickly after cutting.

Turn everything through the opening at the center back.

After turning, you should shape the corners with a corner and edge shaper and then iron them out. Depending on your sewing project, you can topstitch the outer edges, this will flatten them nicely and secure them. Don't forget to close the opening in the binding tape just at the edge. Pull the tie through the belt eyelets.

Your KORA is ready !

If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will respond to you as quickly as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Warmest regards, Dagmar and Ellen.

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