Our sewing pattern Benedikte trousers are figure-hugging trousers in a five-pocket style. With the five pockets and the yoke in the back, they are classic jeans and can be reinterpreted again and again with different fabrics.
Side length with waistband = 106 cm
In these instructions, Benedikte was sewn from a cotton fabric with 3% elastane.
We recommend a denim or cotton fabric with elastane content.
- Outer fabric 1.60 m (140 cm wide)
- Outer fabric 2.20 m (140 cm wide)
- Insert 0.40 m (90 cm wide)
- Ripper 1 piece 10 cm long
- Button 1 piece 1.5 cm diameter
For your information in advance:
Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interlining . Lay the fabric right side up. Place the selvedge parallel to the middle so that you can place it at the back of the fold. The pattern pieces should all lie face up. Always align the thread arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the clippings from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk . Clip the seam allowance in the fabric fold because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends , pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or a pin . It is best to roughly cut all outer fabric parts that will be completely covered with inserts first. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing cut parts here.
If you want to make your benedict from corduroy, note that corduroy is cut against the grain. We have a video for you about this.
If you want to make your Benedict from checked fabric, then note that the pattern pieces of the back pockets and the entire waistband are cut at an angle.
Dagmar shows you how best to cut checked fabric in this video.
What you need from fabric:
- 2x front part of trousers in opposite directions
- 2x back part of trousers in opposite directions
- 2x pocket bags in opposite directions
- 2x pocket bags inside opposite
- 2x pockets at the back in opposite directions
- 2x yoke in opposite directions at the back
- 1x belt eyelets
- 1x underpass
- 1x five-pocket bag on the right
also with insert:
- 2x waistband upper step
- 2x waistband underlay
- 2x waistband at the back in the break
- 1x upper step on the right side of the body
To sew these trousers you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.
If you use a zipper, you will also need the right sewing foot for your sewing machine. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!
After the insert has been attached to the left side of the fabric on the right side of the body (see photo), the underlay on the left (!) side of the body must also be cut away at the cut edge. There is also a cut edge under the pocket bag and the inside of the pocket bag on the right (!) side of the body.
Now start processing the small parts. Iron both back pockets 1cm all the way around. However, the intervention is ironed twice (0.7cm each) and the edge is stitched.
Then sew the prepared pockets onto the back pants. Pay attention to the pocket position, marked by markings in the cut.
Now you can sew the yoke 1cm right sides together to the back of the pants and neaten the seam allowances together. Pay attention to the clips in the cut, which should meet neatly.
Iron the neatened seam allowance upwards and stitch and secure it with a stitching foot-width seam.
Then neaten all the open edges of the 4 trouser legs all around. Make sure that the tops of both front pants are different lengths.
Now let's come to the five-pocket bag. Iron the edges 1cm all around. However, you iron the procedure twice in and around (1cm each) and then stitch the edge through.
The prepared pocket can then be sewn onto the right pocket bag. Pay attention to the pocket position, marked by markings in the cut.
Now the right pocket bag is prepared and you turn your attention to the inside of the pocket bag, which is closed with the opening of the front pants. To do this, place them right sides together and sew them together with a 1cm seam allowance. The seam allowance is then cut into the curve. This allows it to spread when it falls and the curve lays flat better.
Before everything is ironed smooth, the seam allowance is stitched flat.
Now the prepared right pocket bag can be put on. Pay attention to the clips marked in the cut. Close the lower cut edges of both pocket bags with 1cm and neaten the seam allowance.
To ensure that the cut edges of the pocket bags are also finished, the marked piece (see photo) is then cleaned together.
All trouser legs are prepared and can be sewn together before the zipper processing continues. Close the side seam of the front trousers and back trousers with a 1.5cm seam allowance. Work on both legs. Iron the seam allowances apart.
There is also a video about zipper processing in pants here.
Now close the inside leg seam with 1.5cm. Here too, the seam allowances are ironed apart.
The buttock seam is closed up to the marked point with a seam allowance of 1cm. In the middle back, the seam allowances are ironed apart, approximately up to the snap.
Let's now come to the tear processing: For this we prepare the underlay, which is also known as laundry protection. Pay attention to the clips marked in the pattern and iron the laundry protector inside out, left to left. Then neaten the side and the lower cut edge.
The zipper is sewn onto the serged edge. Make sure to place the ripper with 1cm of space on the upper open edge, which then disappears into the waistband.
The top flap is ironed at the respective clip in the cut. Iron the underlay with 1cm. Now the laundry protectors can be attached with a zipper to the left side of the body and processed with a zipper sewing foot. Don't forget to include the left pocket pouch.
To sew the other side of the zipper to the top flap, I lay everything flat and secure the zipper with pins and finish everything with a zipper sewing foot. The entire shortened pocket bag is placed in the top flap before the stitching is closed.
Now the zipper can be closed. The easiest way to help is to use a template. Fold the laundry protector to the side, finish the seam, lock it, lay the laundry protector flat and sew the curve at the bottom.
Cut 5 belt loops 7cm long.
Now all belt eyelets can be stitched onto the front and back trousers with 0.5cm on the respective clips, see pattern.
The next step is the fret processing. To do this, I sew the side seams together with 1cm right sides together and iron them apart.
In addition to the insert, the inner waistband is secured with a shaping band that is ironed on.
Sew the outer and inner waistband together with a 1cm seam allowance...
... and everything collapses. Then the lower edge of the inner waistband is ironed 0.8cm.
The outer waistband is sewn to the almost finished trousers at 1cm.
Then, viewed from the outside, sew the inner waistband in place in the shadow of the seam.
Another and easier option would be to overcast the bottom edge, let it lie flat down and sew through the seam in shadow.
The belt eyelets located at the bottom are additionally stitched in place with a stitching foot-wide seam.
You can then topstitch the waistband a foot wide all the way around.
Now fold the belt eyelets upwards, iron 1cm of the upper edge and fix it close to the edge.
Punch the buttonhole and sew your button to the finished waistband.
The last step is to process the hem. Determine the appropriate length of your pants and press the hem. Topstitch it with 1cm.
Your BENEDIKTE is ready !
If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please contact us by email at email@example.com. We will respond to you as quickly as possible.
Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!
Warmest regards, your Pattern Berlin team.