Our Benedikte pants pattern is figure-hugging pants in a five-pocket style. With the five pockets and the yoke in the back, they are classic jeans and can be reinterpreted again and again with different fabrics.
Side length with waistband = 106 cm
In these instructions, Benedikte was sewn from a cotton fabric with 3% elastane.
We recommend a denim or cotton fabric with elastane.
- Outer fabric 1.60 m (140 cm wide)
- Outer fabric 2.20 m (140 cm wide)
- Insert 0.40 m (90 cm wide)
- Ripper 1 piece 10 cm long
- Button 1 piece 1.5 cm diameter
In advance for you as information:
Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interlining . Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedge parallel to the center so that you can place the waistband in the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk . Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define the positions of dart ends , pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or a pin n. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing pattern pieces here.
If you want to make your Benedikte out of cord, then note that cord is cut against the grain. We have a video for you about this.
If you want to make your Benedikte out of checked fabric, then note that the pattern pieces of the back pockets and the entire waistband are cut diagonally.
In this video, Dagmar shows you the best way to cut checked fabric.
You need from fabric:
- 2x front part trousers in opposite directions
- 2x back part trousers in opposite directions
- 2x pocket bags in opposite directions
- 2x pocket bags inside in opposite directions
- 2x back pocket in opposite directions
- 2x yoke in reverse
- 1x belt loops
- 1x understep
- 1x five-pocket pocket on the right
also with insert:
- 2x Bund overstep
- 2x waistband underlay
- 2x waistband in the back break
- 1x overstep on the right side of the body
To sew these pants you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.
If you use a zipper, you also need the right presser foot for your sewing machine. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
After the interlining has been attached to the left side of the fabric on the right side of the body (see photo), the underlay on the left (!) side of the body must now also be cut away at the cut edge. In addition, there is also a raw edge underlay for pocket bags and pocket bags on the right (!) side of the body.
Now start processing the small parts. Iron both rear pockets around 1cm all the way around. The intervention, however, is ironed twice (each 0.7 cm) and the edge is stitched.
Then you sew the prepared pockets onto the back pants. Pay attention to the pocket position, marked by markings in the cut.
Now you can sew the yoke with 1cm right sides to the back pants and overcast the seam allowances together. Pay attention to the snaps in the cut, which should meet properly.
Iron the trimmed seam allowance upwards and topstitch and secure it with a seam the width of a stitching foot.
Then neaten all open raw edges of the 4 pant legs all around. Make sure that the top steps of both front trousers are of different lengths.
Now we come to the five-pocket bag. Iron the edges around 1cm. However, you iron the intervention twice in and around (each 1cm) and then stitch it almost through the edge.
The prepared pocket can then be sewn onto the right pocket pouch. Pay attention to the pocket position, marked by markings in the cut.
Now the right pocket bag is prepared and you devote yourself to the pocket bag inside, which is folded over with the opening of the front trousers. Place them right sides together and sew them together with a 1cm seam allowance. Then the seam allowance is cut into the curve. This allows it to spread when falling and the curve lays flat better.
Before everything is ironed flat, the seam allowance is stitched flat.
Now the prepared right pocket bag can be put on. Pay attention to the snaps marked in the cut. Close the lower cut edges of both pocket bags with 1cm and clean up the seam allowance.
So that the cut edges of the pocket bags are also finished, the marked piece (see photo) is then finished together.
All trouser legs are prepared and can be sewn together before proceeding with the zipper processing. Close the side seams of the front pants and back pants with a 1.5 cm seam allowance. Work both legs. Iron the seam allowances apart.
There is also a video about zipper processing in trousers.
Now you close the inner leg seam with 1.5 cm. Here, too, the seam allowances are ironed apart.
The seat seam is closed up to the marked point with a seam allowance of 1 cm. In the center back, the seam allowances are ironed apart, approximately up to the notch.
Now we come to the processing of tears: For this we prepare the underlay, which is also known as laundry protection. Pay attention to the snaps marked in the cut and iron the underwear protection left to left in the fold. Then clean up the side and the lower raw edge.
The zipper is sewn to the finished edge. Make sure to place the zipper with 1cm space on the upper open edge, which then disappears into the waistband.
The top step is ironed at the respective notch in the cut. Iron the underlap with 1cm. Now underwear protection can be attached to the left side of the body with a zipper and processed with a zipper sewing foot. Don't forget to include the left pocket pouch.
To sew the other side of the zipper to the top flap, I lay everything flat and pin the zipper in place and use a zipper sewing foot to sew everything together. The entire shortened pocket bag is placed in the top flap before the quilting seam is closed.
Now the zipper can be closed. The easiest way is to use a template. Fold the protection to the side, finish the seam, bar tack, flatten the protection and sew the curve at the bottom.
Cut 5 belt loops to a length of 7 cm.
Now all belt loops can be sewn onto the front and rear trousers with 0.5 cm at the respective snaps, see pattern.
The next step is the fret processing. For this I sew the side seams together with 1cm right sides together and iron them apart.
In addition to the insert, the inner waistband is secured with a shaping band that is ironed on.
Sew the outer and inner waistband together with a 1cm seam allowance...
... and crashes everything. Then the lower edge of the inner waistband is ironed 0.8 cm.
The outer waistband is sewn to the almost finished pants with 1cm.
Then sew the inner waistband in place in the shadow of the seam, seen from the outside.
Another and easier option would be to overcast the bottom edge, leave it flat down, and sew through the seam in shadow.
The belt loops lying underneath are additionally stitched with a seam the width of a quilting foot.
Then you can topstitch the waistband all the way around.
Now fold the belt loops up, iron over 1cm of the upper edge and fasten the edge.
Poke the buttonhole and sew your button to the finished waistband.
The last step is to process the hem. Determine the appropriate length of your pants and iron the hem. Topstitch it with 1cm.
Your BENEDICT is done !
If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to firstname.lastname@example.org. We will answer you as soon as possible.
Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!
Sincerely, your Sewing Pattern Berlin team.