With blouses the crucial detail is often either the sleeve or the collar, with Sil it is definitely the sleeve. Folded in the sleeves, the lush width is gathered together at the bottom with a high cuff. The
The cuff is closed with 7 small eyelets and buttons, reminiscent of the style of the 1940s.
Length in the center back = 62 – 70 cm.
In these instructions, Sil was sewn from a soft draping viscose.
We recommend a flowing silk , viscose or polyester fabric . A plain-colored fabric without exciting patterns is also particularly recommended.
Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and, where necessary, also from interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Place the selvedges parallel to the center so that you can place the back and yoke on the fold. The pattern pieces should all lie face up. Always align the thread arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the clips from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Clip the seam allowance in the fabric fold because this is always a center. Cross markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to roughly cut all outer fabric parts that will be completely covered with inserts first. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing cut parts here.
What you need from fabric:
- 1x back part in the break
- 2x yoke in the break
- 2x front part opposite
- 2x sleeves in opposite directions
- 2x cuff loops
- 2x sleeve slit
also with insert:
- 1x slip on the back part in the break
- 2x facing front part opposite
- 4x cuff sleeves in opposite directions
- 4x fold support opposite
To sew this blouse you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!
We start by sewing the bust darts. The marking defines the tip of the dart, the two clips on the side seam define the depth of the dart. To do this, place the clips on top of each other and sew on the left side of the fabric up to the marked dart point. Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and the side seam is nice and straight. Iron the dart contents upwards.
Now let's take a look at the two tailored yokes and the back piece. Both yokes are placed on the back piece and stitched in place. Outside right to right, inside right to left.
Both yokes are twisted and pressed upwards and joined to the shoulder seams of the front piece. In the photo you can see that both yokes were sewn on at the same time. To do this, crawl from the open neck hole or armhole into the shoulder seam, grab the 3 seam allowances and sew everything together. There are different techniques for sewing in a back yoke, all of them are great. You can find the rolled version here: https://blog.schnittmuster-berlin.de/naehleitung-bluse-qamar/ . This is what your finished yoke looks like. If you would like to particularly secure the yoke, you are welcome to stitch through the stitching seams a foot wide. Next we close the hull. To do this, the front and back pieces are closed right sides together with a seam allowance of 1.5cm. The seam allowances are neatened together and ironed to the back. Facing reinforces a neck hole and makes it look clean because everything is lined up together. To do this, we bring the front receipt parts together with the rear receipt. Then iron the seam allowances apart. The lower, longer curve is ironed over with 1cm for easier processing later.
Now we can look at the prepared cover and the body part. First iron the button placket according to the pattern (fold it in twice), then turn the front edge of the facing. To do this, the facing is sewn to the front piece, right sides together, along the first fold/1st clip. Do this on both sides of the front edge. For clearer visibility, both pattern parts can be seen together. Wrap 1 is in its ironed position, while wrap 2 is in the opposite direction to the ironed position. This means the facing can be tucked all around with the neck hole. You can see in the photo that I didn't iron the button placket beforehand, but I would recommend doing so. The seam allowances of the lining and body are cut into the curve. The seam allowance is then stitched flat as far as you can get to it . This method not only makes ironing easier but also causes the facing to automatically fold inwards if it is not stitched separately. Only the facing is stitched close to the edge on the seam allowance. The stitching line can then only be seen from the inside left side, but not from the right side.
Unfold the button placket, fold the hem over twice and then stitch it 0.7 cm wide. Now fold the button strips again along the ironed folds and stitch the facing and the button strip in one go. The facing is secured to the body and the button placket as well. To do this, stitch through the edge as seen from the left side of the fabric, starting at the left hem, over the facing and ending at the right hem. Info: The yellow lines in the photo define the finished quilting line, viewed from the right side of the fabric.
Cuff with slit
Begin with the slit processing by placing the slit strip on the right side of the fabric of the sleeve on the right side of the fabric on the strip. Now sew the 0.7 cm strip to the open incision; at the tip of the slit the seam allowance is only approx. 2 mm. (see photo).
The slit strip is ironed over, folded in twice (the sewing line at the start of the strip should be hidden) and stitched through just under the edge from the right side .
The upper corner of the slit is fixed on the inside of the sleeve with a seam running diagonally upwards.
Now the slit can be finished and ironed to the correct side. For orientation purposes, the photo above is of the left arm; a slit can always be opened backwards when tightened. The ironed edge can be stitched to the hem to help. Cut slit strips at the beginning to the length of the sleeve. After the slit has been processed, the folds of the sleeve hem can be folded as shown in the pattern. Orient yourself by the clips and the directional arrows in the section. Secure the folds with a seam the width of a quilting foot. Now close the sleeve seam and finish the seam allowances together. These are then ironed backwards.
For the eyelets to close the blouse, you can also watch our sewing video for the continuous roll. The strip cut in the diagonal direction of the thread is placed right sides together in the fold. Starting at the top with a wide opening (school cone), let it shrink in and stitch it to the fold at a foot width. The roll can be pulled through with a thick thread and a large needle. Push the blunt side of the needle into the opening and pull the seam allowance through. Your cuff loops are ready.
Cut the finished cuff loops a total of 14 times with a length of 5cm. Seven of the cut ribbons are stitched onto a cuff with a 0.5cm seam. Pay attention to the position marked in the section by clips. The other seven ribbons are secured to the opposite cuff. In the photo above it is the cuff of the right sleeve. Now the cuff can be properly collapsed. To do this, both pattern pieces are stitched right sides together with one centimeter all the way around. Cut off the corners a little so that the area at the corner doesn't become too thick if it falls over. Work a right cuff as well as an opposite left cuff. Then the open edge is ironed over with a centimeter, with the inner side showing a little by 1-2mm. Sew the cuff to the prepared sleeve from the outside to the inside at 1cm.
Iron the seam out a little and then stitch through from the right in the shadow of the seam. You should just hit the edge of the inner cuff and sew it in place. The sleeve can now be finished and then sewn into the armhole. This is what the wrinkles are for. as described in the pattern, folded and sewn in place with a seam the width of a quilting foot.
The finished sleeve is sewn into the armhole with a 1cm circle and the seam allowances are neatened together. Note the clips in the cut. The pleat support is doubled and neatened together on the long side. The short side is gathered to 20 cm and also neatened together. There is also a video here of how I processed the fold support. The blouse is almost finished. Now all you have to do is sew on all the buttons on the cuffs... ... on the right side of the body the buttonholes are pierced as marked in the pattern and the buttons in the front part are sewn on the left side of the body accordingly.
Your SIL is ready !
If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at email@example.com. We will respond to you as quickly as possible.
Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!
Warmest regards, Dagmar and Ellen.