You can sew liana out of knitwear or suede. Make sure that the knitting/fabric does not fray at the edges and that it looks the same on the inside and outside. Liane is a great knitted coat in winter over narrow trousers or summery dresses and made of suede it is ideally suited as a transitional coat . Some of the edges are only cut, so the coat retains its nonchalance and soft drape.
Length at center back = 88-96cm
In these instructions, liana was sewn from artificial leather.
We recommend a soft knit fabric , boiled wool or a suede imitation leather , in any case a fabric whose cut edges do not fray, the left and right side of the fabric should look the same as possible.
|Sizes 34-40||outer fabric||2.70 m||140cm wide|
|Sizes 42-50||outer fabric||3.10 m||140cm wide|
Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so you can lay the collar on the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.
You need from fabric:
- 1x collar in break
- 4x front part, each 2x opposite
- 2x front middle, opposite
- 2x side part front, opposite
- 2x side part rear, opposite
- 2x back part, opposite
- 2x upper sleeves, opposite
- 2x lower sleeves, opposite
- 2x belt, opposite
- 4x pocket bags, 2x each of the same kind
- 1x belt loop
You will need a sewing machine to sew this coat. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
The pocket bags are sewn, right sides together, to the front side panel according to the markings on the pattern.
Here is an example photo of the ironed seam allowance. In this case, the seam allowances are ironed in one direction and not apart as usual. In our example, the fabric has a different color on the left and right and the right side of the fabric would then be visible on the inside.
The second pocket bags are sewn, right sides together, to the middle of the front part according to the markings in the pattern. Here the seam allowances are ironed apart because these seam allowances will not be visible on the inside later.
Now place the prepared parts, side part in front, right sides together, on the middle of the front part. Both are sewn together. Be sure to stop and latch at the mark before engaging the pocket. Take the seam out and start again from the mark after the pocket opening. This is very important because otherwise you will sew up the pocket opening.
Now the pocket opening is stitched one foot wide. For this you have to fold away the lower pocket bag while the upper pocket bag is stitched on.
Here you can see a detailed view of the stitching of the pocket opening.
Iron the seam allowances to the front and stitch the width of your stitching foot. Note that you leave out the pocket opening again, otherwise you will sew up your pocket.
Then the middle of the front part is folded back and both pocket bags, which are right sides together, are sewn together all around with 1cm.
Here you can see a view of the middle of the front piece and the front of the side piece with the pocket pouches and correctly placed seam allowances.
Now we come to the preparation of the back part. For this, the center back of the back piece is sewn together, right sides together. You iron the seam allowances in one direction, to the left, for the same reason as described above.
The back part is then sewn together with the side part at the back, right sides facing, and the seam allowances ironed towards the back.
The back part is also completely finished with seams that are the width of a quilting foot. This secures the ironed seam allowances.
Now you can sew the back part together with the front part, right sides together, and close the side seams. The seam allowances are ironed towards the back.
The front piece is sewn to the middle of the front piece, right sides together. Coming to the lower part of the hem, the hem is laid from the middle of the front part upwards in a fold and stitched in place. The seam allowances are ironed towards the back.
Here you can see a detailed view of the inside seam of the front part, how the hem was folded up and stitched.
Sew the shoulders of the front and back pieces together, right sides together, making sure that the dividing seams meet. The seam allowances are then ironed backwards.
Also topstitch the front piece one foot wide. Of course you can also topstitch the seam before closing the shoulder. Be careful to slide your bag out from under the machine and don't accidentally stitch tightly.
Now all parts are connected and the hem can be ironed and stitched through at 3.5 cm. Begin and end at the dividing seam between the front piece and the middle of the front piece.
Here you can see a detailed view of the pressed hem and the seam inside.
Now we come to the preparation of the sleeves. To do this, sew the upper and lower sleeves together, right sides together. Iron the seam allowances towards the front.
This seam is topstitched from the outside one foot wide. The hem of the sleeve is ironed according to the notches.
The inner arm seam is closed, right sides facing, and the seam allowances ironed apart, then lay the hem in the fold...
... and stitch through at 3.5 cm.
The finished sleeve is now secured in the armhole with pins and sewn together, right sides together, pay attention to the notches in the pattern.
The two remaining front pieces will become the inner facings of your coat. Place one front piece, wrong sides together, on the outside of the front piece and secure both with a stitch-foot-wide seam all the way around, including the neckline and the leftover piece at the bottom hem.
The pocket is placed to the front and pushed between the lining and the front part.
Then you sew the facing to the front part by stitching through in the shadow of the seam from the outside. Make sure to stop on the NZG of the pocket bag, skip and continue stitching down on the bottom seam allowance of the pocket bag. When you sew through, you sew your pocket bag closed. Work both front pieces equally.
The seam allowances are ironed apart.
The belt is prepared by closing the center back, right sides together, and ironing open the seam allowances. Then you iron the belt in the fold, left to left, on top of each other...
... and stitch the edges one foot wide on top of the other.
This is what your finished round sewn-on belt loop with the belt looks like.
The last step is the processing of the collar. This is placed right sides together at the neckline and sewn on. Iron the seam allowances down. Info: If you are working with very thin fabric, you can sew a second collar against it and the seam allowances disappear between the two collars. To do this, you have to iron the seam allowances upwards accordingly and the collar is topstitched all around, the width of your stitching foot, so that both collars are secured lying on top of each other.
The collar is also stitched from the inside one foot wide.
Your LIANE is ready !
If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to firstname.lastname@example.org. We will answer you as soon as possible.
Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!
Sincerely, your Dagmar and Ellen.