Wide, airy trousers are ideal for the warm season, which is why we have developed elegant pleated trousers as a pattern for you. With the unbelievable width due to the pleated folds in the trouser leg, you will definitely feel good.

In this pattern, Smeralda was sewn from a polyester pleated fabric.

Required material:

We recommend a soft, flowing viscose, silk or polyester satin pleated fabric.

34-42 outer fabric 1.60 m 140cm wide
44-50 outer fabric 1.90 m 140cm wide
34-42 rubber band 65-81cm 3.0 cm wide
44-50 rubber band 86-103cm 3.0 cm wide


Make sure that you leave the pleated blind connected to the paper when cutting and that you cut both at the same time. Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric . Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so you can lay the waistband on the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the thread up arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk . Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends , pocket positions, and much more Transfer these either with chalk or a pin .

You need from fabric:

  • 2x front and back trousers in opposite directions
  • 1x bundle in break

Sewing instructions:

To sew these pants you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing!

Make sure that you leave the pleated blind connected to the paper when cutting and that you cut both at the same time.

Start with the pant legs. Both trouser legs are fixed all around with an auxiliary seam for better stabilization and fixation of the pleated blind. We recommend that you put a piece of cardboard under the sewing foot when sewing, for better transport over the pleated folds.

Use an overlock machine to neaten the trouser leg hems and then iron them down 1cm...

... and to stitch through.

The hem then has to be ironed back into its pleated shape and ironed flat.

Now take your trouser legs and close the inner leg seams. The seam allowances are neatened together and ironed to the back.

Next you can close the crotch seam. To do this, turn one trouser leg right side out, tuck this trouser leg into the non-turned trouser leg, so the crotch seam lies neatly on top of each other. The seam allowances are neatened together.

Another auxiliary seam on the fold of the waistband prevents unnecessary width when pulling in the elastic and wearing it later.

The waistband is also extra stitched all around and provided with an auxiliary seam.

This is what the prepared covenant looks like.

The lower inner raw edge of your waistband is trimmed.

Now the center back can be placed, right sides together, and sewn together with a centimeter. Between the two seams, an opening for the rubber to be pulled in is left open. Then iron the seam allowances apart and the waistband in the fold.

The waistband is pinned to the trouser opening with the untrimmed raw edge, right sides together, and sewn in place. Pay attention to the snaps in the cut. The seam allowance is ironed up into the waistband.

The waistband ironed in the fold is now completely sewn onto the trousers by fastening the turned-down waistband with pins (seen from the right) and then stitching the finished seam in the shadow of the seam (i.e. below the waistband seam).

The elastic band, cut to your body measurements, can now be pulled through the sewn-on waistband with a safety pin and sewn together. You can sew the opening by hand.

This is what the finished waistband of your new pleated trousers looks like.

Your SMERALDA is ready ! 

If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely yours, Dagmar and Ellen.

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