SEWING INSTRUCTIONS RAGLAN RAINCOAT “SABETE”

In the future, bad weather will no longer be an excuse, with our raincoat Sabete you are well prepared for walks or hiking trips even in the rain. If the dark clouds clear on the way, you can fold Sabete and stow it in the back pocket and wear it like a cross-shoulder bag . Hemmed edges, a 2-way zip in the center front, patch pockets with flaps and the large back pocket for storing the coat are the special details of Sabete. Depending on the material, you can choose between two processing options: the one with bound edges or the classic one with hem allowances.

Center Back Length = 103 - 107 cm

Sabete was sewn from a transparent and rubberized fabric in this pattern.

Required material:

We recommend a water-repellent or rubberized outdoor fabric.

outer fabric	size 34-42	2.30 m	140cm wide
outer fabric	size 44-50	2.80 m	140cm wide
2-way zip	size 34-50	1 piece	65cm long
turning rippers	size 34-50	1 piece	25cm long
edging tape	size 34-50	10 m	20mm finished
rubber band	size 34-50	1.0 - 1.15m	3 cm wide
cord stopper	size 34-50	2 pieces
cord	size 34-50	1.00 m	0.7mm diameter
eyelets	size 34-50	2 pieces	0.7mm diameter
backpack buckle	size 34-50	1 piece	3 cm wide

cutting:

The fabric we used is not ironable. Test this with an ironing test beforehand and, if necessary, refrain from ironing. Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the middle so that you can lay the back part and hood in the fold at the front. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.

You need from fabric:

• 1x back part in break
• 2x front part in opposite directions
• 2x hood in front rupture
• 2x hood at the back in opposite directions
• 1x back pocket
• 2x pocket flap in opposite directions
• 2x pocket flaps inside in opposite directions
• 2x front pocket in opposite directions
• 2x sleeves back opposite
• 2x sleeves in front in opposite directions
• 2x sleeve facing in opposite directions

Sewing instructions:

You will need a sewing machine to sew this coat.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide! Happy sewing!

We'll start with the sleeves of our new coat. To do this, take the pieces of the front and back sleeves and place them, right sides together, on top of each other and sew the shoulder seams together.

We put the seam allowance to the front and stitched it with a seam the width of a quilting foot.

Here you can see a detailed photo of how the sleeve has been processed so far.

Sew the sleeve facings, wrong sides together , with an auxiliary seam at 0.5 cm. We want the seam allowance to be on the outside later.

The highlight of our new coat are the seam allowances with edging, a ready-made bias tape. The seam allowance of the sleeves and the panel is edged with this bias tape. The seam allowance visible from the outside with the piping is neatly finished.

The hem of the panel is also edged with the bias binding.

So that the seam allowance of the panel doesn't stick out quite so much, we have stitched it down at the marked positions.

The inner sleeve seam is placed right sides together and sewn together. Pay attention to the seam allowances in the pattern.

Poke the eyelets into the outer hood at the front. Proceed as follows: Poke a hole of the appropriate size for the matching "eyelets with washers" with a punch pliers or the punch included in the set and a hammer. The position of the eyelets is marked in the section. Secure the position on the left inside of the fabric with an additional piece of leftover fabric.

The eyelets and discs are placed in the tool according to the manufacturer's instructions, the two tool legs are folded together and the eyelets are hammered into the fabric.

The residual material fixed for additional security is now cut to a minimum. Your eyelets are ready!

Then you take the cuts of the hood at the back and sew them together, right sides together.

We turned the seam allowances to the left and secured them with a seam the width of a quilting foot.

Now place the front hood part, wrong sides together , on the rear previously processed hood part and sew both together with an auxiliary seam of 0.5 cm. Here, too, the seam allowance should be "visible" to the outside, because ...

... these seam allowances are also edged with bias tape.

We continue with the sewing of the bust darts. A simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, snap by snap, tapering from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart does not bag) on ​​the wrong side of the fabric, following the exact transfer of the pattern and carefully observing the marking. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and finish the side seam nicely straight.
So that you don't have to bartack at the top, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Lay the dart content up. Info: If the rubbery fabric slides under your foot, use a cardboard template to help and place it between the foot and the fabric.

The upper edges of the front pocket are folded in and out twice and the edges are just understitched.

We secured the position of the bag with an adhesive strip, then folded it over 1cm and secured the edge with a subsequent seam.

Here you can see a detail photo of the front pocket.

The pocket flap is placed, right sides together, on the inside of the pocket flap and sewn all around.

For curves and corners, seam allowances are shortened with scissors and cut or cut off. The corners do not become too thick when turning and the seam allowances can be laid flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the point and from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that won't fray as quickly after trimming.

After turning, you should shape the corners with a corner and edge shaper. Depending on your sewing project, you can topstitch the outside edges, this will flatten them nicely and secure them. We stitched everything a foot wide.

The prepared pocket flaps are placed, right sides together, in the position in the front part and sewn on with 1cm.

Here you can see a detailed photo of how the pocket flap was sewn on.

This is then stitched down and secured with an additional seam.

The front part is prepared and can be sewn together with the back part, right sides together, at the side seams.

The side seam is stitched to the back and fixed with an additional seam that is the width of a quilting foot.

Now you can also stitch the previously prepared sleeves, wrong sides together , into the body part with a 0.5 cm auxiliary seam. Again, the seam allowance of the raglan seam will be visible on the outside...

... and bordered all around with a bias stripe.

Now take your prepared outer hood and place it, right sides together, on your neckline on the body part. Sew both layers together with an auxiliary seam of 0.5 cm.

Now the second section of the hood is processed at the front. Sew this, right sides together, to the inner side of the coat.

This seam allowance is then also edged with bias tape. The inner hood slip can then be folded up...

... and secured with an auxiliary seam at 0.5 cm.

The entire front edge is also bordered with bias binding.

Then you can process your zipper in the front part. To do this, use the ripper markings on the pattern as a guide, place the ripper under the processed bias binding and sew on the same quilting of the bias binding.

Here you can see a detailed photo of how we sewed in the zipper.

The tunnel of the hood is stitched through and through at an even distance to the front edge and the rubber is inserted beforehand.

Front view of the finished jacket.

Now we come to the processing of the pocket on the back part. The zipper may need to be shortened. If this is the case, the cut edge must be gripped and secured with a bias strip. The pocket at the back is placed, right sides together, on the zipper and stitched. Make sure that the seam allowance is folded in at the end of the zipper.

Then these inner seam allowances are gathered with bias tape.

Here you can see detailed photos of the bound seam allowance.

Now let's sew one side just under the edge to the back piece.

Cut the elastics to the correct length and position them, right sides together, at the mark on the cut.

They are then folded back and stitched through again.

Now the elastics are tight and in the right position and the bag can be fastened to the back part all around, just under the edge.

The other side of the zipper is also attached to the back part with a seam.

The hem is bordered and topstitched with a bias stripe.

Finally, you attach the buckles to your elastics in the back.

Your SABETE is ready ! 

If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely yours, Dagmar and Ellen.