Sewing instructions for the Bristol ruffle blouse

Level : medium - for experienced
 
In this tutorial, Bristol was sewn from a thin viscose.

Required material:

We recommend you viscose , cotton voile or silk

sizes 34-42	outer fabric	1.70 m	140 cm wide
	insert	0.40 m	90 cm wide
sizes 40-50	outer fabric	1.90 m	140 cm wide
	insert	0.40 m	90 cm wide

Sizes 34-50 Formband 0.90m

1 button diameter 1.2cm

Cutting:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked!

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interfacing. Lay the fabric with the right side facing up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the middle so that you can lay the back piece, collar stand, under and upper collar on the fold. The pattern pieces should all lie with the writing facing upwards. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm long cut with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Notch the seam allowance on the fold of the fabric because this is always the middle. Markings define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.

You will need fabric:

• 1x back part in the fracture
• 2x front part opposite
• 2x neckline ruffles opposite
• 2x sleeves opposite
• 1x sleeve strip for 2x slits
• 1x sleeve eyelet and neckline (for 3x eyelets)
• 2x sleeve ruffle
• 2x hem strips for finishing the sleeve ruffle seam

You need fabric with interlining:

• 1x back part facing with shaped band in the fold
• 2x front facing with shaped band opposite

Sewing instructions:

To sew this blouse you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

In addition to the description, the colored lines on the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

You start by sewing the bust darts, which are only available in sizes 44-50. After transferring the pattern exactly and paying close attention to the markings, a simple, straight dart is sewn on the left side of the fabric, notch by notch, tapering nicely from the widest point to the tip. (with it  the dart does not bunch up) is closed and sewn. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you do not sew too much or too little and the side seam ends nice and straight.

So that you don't have to lock the tip, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch.

First, sew the torso together. Place the front pieces right sides together on the back piece, close the shoulder and side seams, neaten the seam allowances and iron them all to the front.

You also clean up the front edge.

Now prepare the neckline ruffle.

You stitch the center back right sides together, neaten the seam allowance and iron it in one direction.

The outer edge is folded under twice and stitched. You can do this with the sewing foot for rolled hems, or if you have an overlock, you can also finish the edge with a Babylock.

While you're at it, do the same with the sleeve ruffles. The short sides are also folded in twice.

Now you pull so-called ruffle threads into the neckline ruffle. They are an aid to obtaining an even gather. To do this, select the largest stitch setting on your sewing machine. You must not lock at the beginning and end of the auxiliary seams, but leave about 10cm of thread at each end. You sew 2 ruffle seams at a distance of about 1cm, namely at 0.5cm and 1.5cm from the cut edge, so that the later attachment seam runs exactly between the two auxiliary seams.

Then carefully pull the two bobbin threads on one side and push the fabric together until you have reached the seam width of the neck hole. You can now stitch the ruffle into the neck hole, left to right, distributing the ruffles evenly.

Now close the front centre right sides together and iron the seam allowance open.

Now you make the 3 eyelets. Fold the bias strip in half, right sides together, and stitch it in the middle. If the seam allowance is a bit uneven, trim it a little.

Then you take a darning needle (which has a rounded tip), a sturdy thicker thread (this minimizes the risk of the thread breaking when pulling it through), and sew the thread at one end.

Now push the needle and thread through the "tube" with the needle head first until you have turned the entire strip inside out.

You cut the strip into 3 equal parts and adjust them to your button size.

Sew one of the eyelets to the position on the neckline indicated in the pattern.

Next, we'll start with the neckline facings. Sew them together at the shoulder, right sides together, iron the seam allowance open and neaten the edge all around.

We subsequently decided to fix the neck facings at the front and back. In the photos, the facings do not yet have any inlay.

Now you can sew the facing right sides together into the neck hole. Start in the front center and sew all the way around to the other side. Trim the seam allowance in the curve of the front center/neck hole. The stitching threads can now be removed.

The front center of the facing is closed right sides together and the seam allowance is ironed open.

Now stitch the seam allowance flat onto the facing....

If the fabric is very soft and the facing does not stay inside, you can also stitch the seam allowance 0.7cm wide. The ruffle also covers the wide stitching line. Tip

....iron it inwards (without ironing the ruffle flat...have fun doing it ;-)) and fix it in the shadow of the seam on the shoulder and in the front center. You can also fix the facing to the seam allowances with a hand stitch.

Sew a button onto the other side of the facing.

The blouse is put aside and work continues on the sleeve.

First, sew the sleeve slit. Cut the sleeve band in half, then place the slit strip, right sides together, under the notch in the sleeve. Place both under your sewing machine and sew the strip flush with the notch, starting at 0.7cm. At the top of the cut, the seam allowance is only about 2mm and at the end it is 0.7cm again (see photo).

Now iron the strip onto the right side of the sleeve, fold it twice and stitch it close to the edge on the right side.

The upper corner of the slit is fixed to the inside of the sleeve with a seam running diagonally upwards.

Now the slit can be finished and ironed to the right side. The photo above is for orientation purposes of the right arm; a slit can always be opened backwards when worn.

Now close the sleeve seam and neaten the seam allowances together. These are then ironed to the front.

Now sew the sleeve ruffle right sides together to the sleeve hem

Next, repeat the game with the threads.

Gather the ruffle seam to the width specified in the pattern. Then you have to hem the open seam allowance with the corresponding strip. Sew the strip on with a 1cm seam allowance (this also secures the gathers). Fold the ends in and fold the strip around the seam allowances into the sleeve. Then stitch it through the edge. Now you have hemmed the seam allowance:)

The eyelet is sewn onto the sleeve overlap and the button onto the underlap.

Then sew the sleeve right sides together into the armhole, paying close attention to the notches.

The seam allowance is neatened together and ironed into the sleeve.

Final!

Fold the blouse hem twice by 1cm and stitch it down.

Your BRISTOL is ready

If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please send us an email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as quickly as possible. 

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your pattern team