An unusual cut construction is the basis for this beautiful beach dress . The pointed hem is created by the square cut part. You can also cut the hem rounded using a drawn line. The deep neckline at the front and the open back are perfect for hot summer days.
Length from strap base to hem = 90 cm
Sarah was sewn from a jersey in this pattern.
We recommend a flowing jersey. Make sure to use a fully dyed fabric, not a printed fabric, for example. Due to the hem of different lengths, a white side can otherwise be seen from the outside.
|Plain outer fabric
Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric . The pattern pieces should all lie face up. Always align the thread arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the clippings from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk. Drill holes define positions of dart ends, pocket positions or position of the tunnel on the left side of the fabric. Transfer these with either chalk or pins. What you need from fabric:
- 2x front/back parts in opposite directions
- 2x carriers
- 1x tunnel
- 1x waist band
To sew this dress you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the raw edges.
Be sure to use a jersey needle and use a stretchy stitch, i.e. if you are sewing with a household sewing machine, you should use either a zigzag stitch or the three-part elastic stitch and then all seam allowances again with a zigzag stitch or another appropriate stitch Neaten so they don't fray. If you use a seam zipper, you will also need the right sewing foot for your sewing machine. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing! The first step is to neaten the cut edges on the right side of the goods. Start at the bottom of the slit at the center front, follow the yellow line as shown in the photo, and end at the beginning of the slit at the center back. Process both parts and pay attention to the right and left sides of the goods. If you don't want the tips of the rectangle to be so pointed, you can also round them off as shown in the section. After everything has been neatly cleaned, the back and front slits can now be worked on. To do this, the cut edge is ironed twice (1cm each). Make sure that the back slit is left unironed first so that it can then be bordered by the front edge. This is a small opening for our porters later. Now close both the front and center back with 1cm and iron the seam allowances apart. Only now are the ironed slits stitched all around with a narrow edge. You should start in the middle back and end there. The second photo shows you what it should look like front and back so that everything looks clean. Both straps are stitched through with a seam allowance of 1cm, right sides together, in the fold and then pulled through. (There is also a video about processing a solid roll here.) When the front and back slits were stitched close to the edges, a small opening was left. We now use this to push in our rolled up support and fix it all around with a rectangle. The waist band is also stitched through with a seam allowance of 1.5cm, right sides together, in the fold and then pulled through. (There is also a video about processing a solid roll here.) The cut edges of the tunnel on the right and left outside are neatened, ironed over 2cm and stitched through with 1.5cm. The long sides of the tunnel can then be ironed 1cm each.
The tunnel cannot be seen from the outside, which means it was stitched on from the inside, i.e. the left side of the goods. The ironed tunnel is now pinned to our drill hole markings (from the inside) and the edge is stitched through. It ends with the back edge as shown in the photo. Pay attention to the position of the tunnel marked in the cut with two clips or measure the distance in your cut with a tape measure because the clips have disappeared due to previous processing. Because the fabric of the tunnel was cut straight and not at an angle, the lower section has to be stretched a little when sewing and the upper section has to be maintained a little. This actually works very well because our fabric is jersey. This is what the drawstring should look like from the inside at the back. The prepared waist band is then pulled through the tunnel with a safety pin. The ribbon can now be cut to the desired size and secured with beads and a knot.
Your SARAH is ready !
If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at info@schn ittmuster-berlin.de. We will respond to you as quickly as possible.
Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!
Warmest regards, Dagmar and Ellen.