SEWING INSTRUCTIONS TUNIC “MOANA”

With the Moana tunic pattern you can sew three different models: 1. the short-length blouse , 2. the medium-length tunic and 3. the long version of the dress . The different options are marked on the average, you just have to decide which one you prefer, of course you can also choose all three variants at the same time. Moana is a summery and slightly playful model, the hem is flared, resulting in a casual and loose drape around the body. The short sleeves are slightly puffed and the bust darts ensure the right fit despite being casually casual. However, the V-neckline and the tie that comes out of the back neckline are the special details that make Moana special. You can simply leave the ribbon hanging or tie it in a playful bow.

Center back lengths:

• Blouse 60-68 cm
• Tunic = 73 - 81 cm
• Dress = 92-100cm

Moana was sewn from a viscose in this pattern.

Required material:

We recommend you a soft flowing viscose , silk or polyester satin , a jersey is also possible, then you might want to sew one size smaller.

Blouse:

Sizes 34-42	outer fabric	1.15m	140cm wide
Sizes 44-50	outer fabric	1.60 m	140cm wide
Sizes 34-50	inlay	0.35m	90 cm wide

Tunic:

Sizes 34-42	outer fabric	1.50 m	140cm wide
Sizes 44-50	outer fabric	1.80 m	140cm wide
Sizes 34-50	inlay	0.35m	90 cm wide

A dress:

Sizes 34-50	outer fabric	2.10m	140cm wide
	inlay	0.35m	90 cm wide

cutting:

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the center so you can lay the front, back, front facing, and back facing in the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing pattern pieces here.

You need from fabric:

• 1x back part in break
• 1x front part in break
• 2x sleeves in opposite directions
• 2x binding tape
• 2x arm hem tape

also with insert:

• 1x document in front in the rupture
• 1x receipt at the back in the rupture

Sewing instructions:

To sew this tunic you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.

In addition to the description, the black lines on the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing!

We start by sewing the bust darts. A simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, snap by snap, tapering from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart does not bag) on ​​the wrong side of the fabric, following the exact transfer of the pattern and carefully observing the marking. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and finish the side seam nicely straight.
So that you don't have to bartack at the top, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch.

You iron the dart content upwards.

The front ties are laid, right sides together, in the fold and tucked at the long and short perpendicular runs. For corners, seam allowances are shortened and cut off with scissors. The corners do not become too thick when turning and the seam allowances can be laid flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the point and from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that won't fray as quickly after trimming.

Then you turn the two ribbons with the help of a long stick and iron them flat. For your information: the break in the ribbon later points to the center front.

Let's continue with the evidence. We start with the facing at the front and neaten the lower raw edge.

The cleansing seam is ironed inwards...

... and just a stitched edge.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the ironed seam allowance of the front facing.

The prepared front lining is placed, right sides together, on the neckline of the front piece and stitched with 1cm.

For lace, seam allowances are cut in with scissors. The seam allowance spreads out when turning and the seam allowances can be laid flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the point and from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a tip that does not fray so quickly after trimming. The curve must also be snapped in so that the receipt can be folded inwards.

Then the seam allowances are flat-stitched as far as you can get. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also means that the facing automatically lies inwards and does not roll out if it is not topstitched separately. Only the facing is stitched to the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side.

The front and back pieces are placed on top of each other, right sides together, and the shoulders are closed. Meanwhile, position your front tie straps so that the fold points to the center front, i.e. they fall straight down and sew them in place.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the processing of the right shoulder seam.

We continue with the facing at the back and clean up the lower raw edge.

The edging seam is ironed inside out, left to left...

... and just a stitched edge.

Then place the prepared back facing, right sides together, against your back neckline and sew it in place. The curve must be snapped in so that the receipt can be folded inwards.

The shoulder seams are neatened together and ironed to the back.

The seam allowances are ironed open first to make it easier to turn the facing inwards, and then you turn the back neckline.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the processing of the right shoulder seam.

Now you can secure the neckline all around with a seam the width of a quilting foot.

The side seams are closed by placing the front and back pieces on top of each other, right sides together, and stitching 1.5 cm together. The seam allowances are neatened together and ironed to the back.

Then you neaten the hem of your tunic...

... iron it around 2cm and stitch it tight.

The folds within the sleeve head are placed as described in the pattern and secured with an auxiliary seam.

Do the same for the pleats in the hem of the sleeve.

The sleeve can now be placed right sides together and sewn together. The seam allowances are neatened together and ironed to the back.

Place the diagonally cut arm hem bands, right sides together, on top of each other and sew them together. The seam allowances are ironed apart.

The hem band is placed on the sleeve, right sides facing, and sewn on with 0.7 cm.

Then the seam allowance is ironed down.

The prepared sleeve is now processed further on your sewing machine. To do this, fold the band in and out twice while sewing and stitch the arm hem band just under the edge from the right. Info: Folding in on the sewing machine allows you to adjust if necessary, as if you ironed the band beforehand.

Finally, sew your prepared sleeves, right sides together, into the armhole and neaten the seam allowances. Note the snaps in the cut (double snaps mean in the back).

Your MOANA is ready !

If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!

Sincerely yours, Dagmar and Ellen.