Length at center back = 60-66 cm

Uma was sewn from a soft viscose in this pattern.

→ To the pattern “Uma”

In advance for you as information:

Required material:

We recommend viscose, cotton poplin or silk.

Sizes 34-42

• Outer fabric 3/4 sleeves 1.50 m (140 cm wide)
• Outer fabric long sleeves 1.60 m (140 cm wide)

Sizes 44-50

• Outer fabric 3/4 sleeves 1.90 m (140 cm wide)
• Outer fabric long sleeves 2.00 m (140 cm wide)

Sizes 34-50

• Cuff fabric 0.15 m 60 cm wide
• Insert 0.60 m 140 cm wide
• Buttons 6 pieces 10 mm diameter
• Rubber 0.60 m 2 cm wide

cutting:

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the middle so that you can lay the back part, lower collar, upper collar and collar stand in the fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing pattern pieces here.

You need from fabric:

• 1x back part in break
• 2x front part in opposite directions
• 2x sleeves in opposite directions
• 2x or 4x sleeves below in opposite directions

also with insert:

• 1x undercollar in break
• 1x upper collar in break
• 2x collar stand in break

You need from rib:

• 2x sleeve cuffs

Sewing instructions:

To sew this blouse you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!
Happy sewing!

Start sewing the bust darts. A simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, snap by snap, tapering from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart does not bag) on ​​the wrong side of the fabric, following the exact transfer of the pattern and carefully observing the marking. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and finish the side seam nicely straight.
So that you don't have to bartack at the top, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. You iron the dart content upwards.

Also iron the front edge twice and over. Pay attention to the snaps in the cut.

Now you can sew the side seams of the front and back pieces together, right sides together, and neaten the seam allowances together. Then iron them backwards.

Sew the shoulder seams right sides together and neaten them afterwards. Press the seam allowances backwards.

Now come to the preparation of the collar. Place the upper and lower collar right sides together and stitch through. Iron the seam allowances apart, this will make it easier for you to turn the collar later. For corners, seam allowances are shortened with scissors and cut or cut off. The corners do not become too thick when turning and the seam allowances can be laid flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend that you sew just before the point and from there with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a corner that won't fray as quickly after trimming.

After turning, you should shape the corners with a corner and edge shaper and then iron them out. Depending on your sewing project, you can topstitch the outside edges, this will flatten them nicely and secure them.

For the outer collar stand, iron the lower cut edge 1cm around.

Then place the inner collar stand right sides together on the upper collar and stitch it in place. Note the fullness in the upper collar, which you push up a little when sewing and it lies edge to edge.

Now you can also place the prepared outer web right sides together on the lower collar and stitch through. For curves, seam allowances are shortened with scissors and notched or cut off. The curve does not become too thick when turning and the seam allowances can be laid flat. It is particularly important that the seam is not cut. That's why we recommend you to sew inside the curve with a smaller stitch length. This guarantees you a curve that does not fray so quickly after cutting.

After turning, you should shape the corners with a corner and edge shaper and then iron them out. For further processing I have a little tip for you. Stitch a rough-stitched auxiliary seam directly to the right of the ironed edge of the outer collar for later orientation.

Here you can see a detailed view of the prepared collar.

Now put the collar in the neckline of the closed front and back part. Place the inner collar stand, right sides together, into the neckline and sew a seam to the left of your previously sewn auxiliary seam. This ensures that the seam on the outer web also meets the inner side edge. Pay attention to the snaps in the cut. Then iron the seam allowances upwards.

Now you also topstitch the outer web just under the edge. Needle through the route for help.

Here you can see a view of the left side of the fabric and that the seam was just right on the edge here as well.

Now come to the processing of the sleeve. If you want to sew in a piping band, place the piping on the sleeve, right sides together, and stitch it in place.

Stitch the bottom of the sleeve to the piping, right sides together, neaten the seam allowances and iron them down.

Now you can also close the inner arm seam right sides together and neaten it together. Pay attention to the seam allowances in the pattern and iron them backwards.

Process the cuffs by closing them in the round, right sides together, ironing the seam allowances apart and placing them left sides together in the fold. Stitch a large-stitch auxiliary seam to extra secure both layers of fabric.

Now stitch the prepared cuffs to the sleeves, right sides together, and neaten the seam allowances together. Press the seam allowances up.

In the sleeve there is a box pleat at the shoulder seam. Lay them out according to the pattern and topstitch them with an auxiliary seam.

Now place the finished sleeves in the correct armhole, right sides together, stitch them and neaten the seam allowances together.

Neaten the hem of your blouse all around...

... iron it according to the snaps in the cut and stitch the hem just under the edge.

Finally, all you have to do is find the right buttons, poke buttonholes and sew on the buttons.

Your UMA is ready !

If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible. 

Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your Sewing Pattern Berlin team.

--> ENGLISH VERSION <--

Sewing Instructions Blouse Uma

In the blouse cut Uma you will find two sleeve variants, a long version with finished cuff and a 3/4 long variant that prefers an elastic tape in the drawstring as a finish. The sleeve is given the required width by a plate-shaped pattern piece, this seam can be additionally emphasized with the help of a colored piping. The blouse collar and the button placket in the front center complete this spring-like blouse.