Level: medium - for experienced Dallas was sewn from viscose in this tutorial.
Required materials:
We recommend youViscose ,Cotton voile orsilk
Sizes 34-42
Outer fabric
1.90 m
140 cm wide
insert
0.20 m
90 cm wide
Sizes 40-50
Outer fabric
2.20 m
140 cm wide
insert
0.20 m
90 cm wide
Cutting:
Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked!
Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interfacing. Lay the fabric right side up. Place the selvedges parallel to the center so you can place the back piece, collar stand, undercollar, and overcollar on the fold. The pattern pieces should all be laid with the writing facing up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm snip with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Notch the seam allowance along the fold, as this is always the center. Marks define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It's best to roughly cut all outer fabric pieces that will be completely covered with interfacing. After you've secured the interfacing, cut it out precisely. There's also a video here about gluing and securing pattern pieces.
You will need fabric:
1x back part in the fracture
1x front part in the break
2x pass in the fraction
2x sleeves opposite
2x sanding belt opposite
also with insert:
1x receipt in front of the break
Sewing instructions:
To sew this blouse you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.
In addition to the description, the colored lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued. When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1 cm wide! Have fun sewing!
You start by sewing the bust darts.
A simple, straight dart is made, after accurately transferring the pattern and paying close attention to the markings, on the wrong side of the fabric, notch by notch, from the widest point to the tip.(with itClose and sew the dart (the dart doesn't bunch up). Draw a line with tailor's chalk beforehand to ensure you don't over-stitch or under-stitch and that the side seam ends nicely and straight. To avoid having to lock the tip, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch.
Now grab the front facing and chain off the outer edge.
Then pin it, right sides together, to the front neckline and sew it in place. Carefully trim the seam allowance at the center front, right up to the seam.
Turn the facing right side out, stitch the seam allowance down on the facing, iron it flat and do the decorative stitching using the quilting template.
Before you sew on the yoke, prepare the back:
Place the box pleat in the center back according to the cutting instructions and secure it with a stitch.
Let’s move on to the burrito method that has been used several times now:
Place the inner yoke on the table with the right side facing up. Place the front piece, right side facing up, on the shoulder seam of the yoke. Then pin the outer yoke to it with the wrong side facing up. Now you can close the seam. Press the seam allowance into the yoke.
Sew the outer yoke to the back piece right sides together.
Lay the blouse out on the table with the right side facing up and roll the front piece up to the shoulder seam. Do the same with the back piece until the already attached yoke seam is at the top.
You take the loose yoke piece, use it to enclose the front and back pieces, and sew it onto the already attached yoke piece.
Now just pull the front and back pieces out of the burrito at the sides and your super neatly finished yoke is ready.
Before you sew in the sleeve, neaten the seam allowance of the side seam on the front and back pieces up to about 8cm above and 2cm below the slit.
You'll see in the next 2 steps why I do such strange things ;-)
The sleeves are sewn into the respective armholes, right sides together (please pay attention to the notches so the sleeves are not swapped). The seam allowances are neatened together and pressed into the sleeve.
Now close the entire side seam in one go. Note: You will be neatening the seam allowance together up to the point where you already finished. From there, the seam is ironed open, and the area in front of it is ironed forward.
Now it's time to tackle the hems. The hem curve is folded over twice by 0.7 cm.This curve isn't so easy to sew, so use a large stitch setting to add a "drawing thread" at about 0.7 cm. If you pull it a little, the seam allowance will fold over almost automatically, making it easier to press.
Then sew the hem and sew the slits around the corner. Fold the sleeve hem under twice 1cm and sew it in place.
Final spurt!
Sew the ribbon together at the center back, right sides together, and iron the seam allowance open.
Now sew the ribbon into the neckline on one long side, right sides together. The seam allowance is pressed into the ribbon.
...I don't even know how to explain it:
Pin the ribbon in the front center as it should be finished....
...starting from the front center, pin it a little further towards the neck hole and also towards the band.
Now you unravel the mess...
...reaches through the opening in the back center and pulls the strap through there.
Now the ribbon is right sides together and is turned together. You can sew approximately up to the shoulder seam. The ribbon corner is trimmed...and yes, that's what the blouse looks like right now: a bag with a tie :-))
Now all you have to do is undo the knot again, which means turning the ribbons right side out.
Iron the last open piece at the neckline over 1cm and stitch it on the edge. Iron the ribbon flat...and what can I say...it's done!
Your DALLAS is ready
If you're stuck or have any questions, please email usat info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We'll respond as soon as possible.
