Sewing instructions basic shirt Anna

Anna is the perfect basic shirt for beginners. It consists of only three pattern pieces and looks especially good when patched together from two different fabrics.

Length at back center = 59 - 63 cm

In this tutorial, Anna was sewn from a blue silk and a colorful, elastic polyester fabric.

→ To the sewing pattern “Anna”

Materials needed:

We recommend silk, viscose or polyester satin combined with jersey.

Sizes 34-50

• Jersey 0.80 m (140 cm wide)

Sizes 34-50

• Outer fabric 0.90 m (140 cm wide)

Cut:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as indicated by the marking notches!

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric. Place the fabric right side up. Align the selvedges parallel to the center so you can lay the front and back pieces on the fold. All pattern pieces should be placed with the printed side facing up. Always align the grainline arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm snip with scissors or using chalk, and mark the ends of the darts. Note that bust darts are required for sizes 42-50. Snip the seam allowance on the fold, as this is always the center point. Markings define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.

You will need the following fabric:

• 1x front part in breakage
• 1x back piece in half
• 1x neckband

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as indicated by the marking notches!

To sew this shirt, you'll need a sewing machine and an overlock machine, or alternatively, the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges. Be sure to use a jersey needle and a stretch stitch. If you're using a regular sewing machine, you should use either a zigzag stitch or a three-step elastic stitch. Afterward, finish all seam allowances again with a zigzag stitch or another suitable stitch to prevent fraying. The colored lines in the pictures, in addition to the written instructions, show you where to sew seams or glue.

When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1 cm wide!

Have fun sewing!

Sizes 42-50 have a bust dart; sew this according to the pattern. A simple, straight dart is sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, following the exact transfer of the pattern and paying close attention to the markings. Sew the dart from the widest point to the point, tapering neatly (so the dart doesn't bunch up), and then sewn. Draw a line beforehand with tailor's chalk to ensure you sew correctly and that the side seam finishes straight.
To avoid having to lock the stitching at the top, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch.

You iron the dart filling upwards.

After you have finished the bust darts, you finish all the side seams of the front and back pieces.

Next, sew the side seams of the front and back pieces together, right sides facing. Make sure you don't sew all the way to the end of the sleeve opening (see the yellow line in the photo) so that the armhole hem can be turned up neatly later. Pay attention to the seam allowances in the pattern.

Press the seam allowances apart.

Close the shoulder seams with a seam and finish the seam allowances together. Then press them towards the back.

Finish the seam allowances of the sleeve all the way around…

…and iron the sleeve hem of your shirt. Then topstitch the hem and iron everything flat. Pay attention to the notches in the pattern during the process.

After you have also finished the hem of your shirt with the overlock machine, it is ironed over at the notches and the seam allowance is stitched down with 1cm.

Now let's move on to the neckline. Place the ribbon right sides together and sew it together in a round.

Press the seam allowances apart.

Then iron the entire strip inside out, folding it in half.

Option 1:

Now you can attach the strip to the neckline, right sides together. Make sure the left shoulder seam and the ribbon seam are aligned.

Next, the seam allowances are topstitched flat. This method not only makes final pressing easier but also ensures that the neckband, if not topstitched separately, automatically folds inwards and doesn't roll out. Only the band itself is topstitched close to the edge of the seam allowances. The topstitching line is then only visible from the wrong side of the fabric, not from the right side.

Now trim the entire 1cm seam allowance down to 0.5cm. This needs to be done so that the ribbon can be folded inside more easily.

Turn everything inside out, left side to left side, and then stitch the ribbon close to the edge.

Option 2:

For option 2, the entire ribbon needs to be shortened and stretched before being stitched to the neckline so that it lies smoothly against the neck and doesn't stick out. The best way to do this is with a dress form, where you can pin the ribbon in place and decide on the desired length depending on the fabric.

Now the strip can be attached to the neckline, right sides together. Make sure the shoulder seam and the ribbon seam are aligned.

Now neaten the seam allowances together.

Finally, the seam allowances are topstitched flat. This method not only makes the final pressing easier but also ensures that the neckband, if not topstitched separately, automatically folds inwards and doesn't roll out. Only the band itself is topstitched close to the edge of the seam allowances. The topstitching line is then only visible from the wrong side of the fabric, not from the right side.

Your ANNA is finished!

If you get stuck or have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will reply as soon as possible.

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece!

Sincerely, your Schnittmuster-Berlin team.