Sewing instructions Bermuda pants Iggy

18 mai 2022

Sewing pattern Bermuda Iggy has a classic cut, is loose and comfortable and is just perfect for hot summer days. There are two pockets in the front and patch pockets in the back.

Side length with waistband = 58 cm

Iggy was sewn from a linen fabric in this pattern.

→ To the pattern “Iggy”

Required material:

We recommend a fabric made of cotton or linen.

Sizes 44-48 : Outer fabric 1.20 m (140 cm wide)

Lining 0.40 m (140cm wide)

Insert 0.30m (90cm wide)

Zipper 1 x 14cm long

Buttons 2 x 1.7cm diameter

Sizes 50-58 : Outer fabric 1.40 m (140 cm wide)

Lining 0.40 m (140cm wide)

Insert 0.30m (90cm wide)

Zipper 1 x 14cm long

Buttons 2 x 1.7cm diameter

cutting:

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric, lining fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing pattern pieces here.

You need from fabric:

2x hind trousers in opposite directions
2x front trousers in opposite directions
2x pass in opposite direction
1x slip slip
2x bag-rear opposite
2x pocket bags in opposite directions
1x belt loops

also with insert:

2x pocket receipt
2x Bund overstep
2x waistband underlay
1x slip slip
1x overstep front trousers
1x underlay front pants
cut 1x front pant top step on the right side of the body

You need from food:

2x pocket bag lining in opposite directions

Sewing instructions:

To sew these pants you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.

If you use a zipper, you also need the right presser foot for your sewing machine. In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.

When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!

Happy sewing!

Begin by overcasting the bottom raw edge of the pocket facings.

Lay the slips on top of the lining pouches and stitch them in place.

Place the lining pocket bags right sides together on the front pants and stitch everything in place. Then press the seam allowances apart, turn the bag inside out and iron everything flat.

Stitch a seam close to the edge and stitch-foot-wide through the pocket opening.

Place the fabric pocket pouch behind the lining fabric, right sides together, sew both pouches and overcast them together.

Now you can neaten the front trouser legs all around.

Then iron the hem of the trouser legs and the top and bottom flaps according to the pattern.

Take the back pockets and neaten the top raw edge. Iron the edges around 1cm and cut the opening according to the snaps.

Stitch the opening just under the edge.

The markings in the pattern define the position of the back pockets. Place the pockets on the back pants and stitch them all around.

Sew the yoke to the back pants with the right sides together and neaten the seam allowances together.

Then you also neaten the back trousers all around and...

... iron the hem according to Knips in the cut.

Lay the prepared front and back trousers right sides together and close the side seams. Pay attention to the seam allowances in the pattern. Then iron them apart.

Sew the inside leg seam right sides together, pay attention to the seam allowances in the pattern.

Next, you close the seat seam from the front to the center back. Note the seam allowances of the easy-to-change center back. Leave 2-3cm open at the top so that you can sew on the cuff later. Iron the center back apart up to the snap.

We have a video for you about the zipper processing:

Lay both underlays right sides together and sew the seam marked yellow in the photo. Pin the seam allowances inside the curve and trim them away a bit.

Overturn the understep and clean up the straight stretch left sides together.

Sew the zipper to the underlay, leaving the seam allowance at the top for the waistband. Slide both under the ironed underflap of the right front trousers and stitch through the edge.

Here you can see a detailed view of the quilted zipper on the underlay.

Pin the position of the zipper on the left front pant to the top flap and stitch the zipper twice.

Now use a template to stitch the top step from the right to the marking. To do this, push the underlay aside so that you don't sew it on.

Continue stitching the curve after positioning the underlap correctly.

On the strip for the belt loops, neaten one of the long sides.

Then iron over the unfinished edge by 1cm and the finished edge by 1cm. Finally, stitch along the long sides, each 0.2 cm wide.

Cut the strip into 8 x 8 cm long pieces.

Fasten the belt loops right sides together on the front trousers according to the markings on the pattern.

Fasten the belt loops right sides together on the back pants according to the markings on the pattern.

Prepare the waistband by ironing the lower cut edge of the inner waistband by 1cm. Close the waistband inside and outside, right sides facing, and iron the seam allowances apart. Cut the corners on the top and bottom step. The center back remains open again and will be processed later.

Sew an auxiliary seam right next to the pressed edge.

Now sew the waistband pieces to the pants, right sides together, from the outside in. The understep is the right side of the body, the top step is the left side of the body. Orientate yourself on the auxiliary seam of the outer waistband and stitch everything in place just next to it.