Required material:
You can use wool fabrics, artificial leather or even real leather for this jacket. For thicker fabrics and artificial leather, you do not need to fix the front. For soft, thinner fabrics, pay attention to the interlining recommendation on the pattern pieces.
In our example, I did not use front fixing because the wool crepe is voluminous enough.
- Outer fabric 2.00 m 140 cm wide
- Lining 1.40 m 140 cm wide
- insert 1.90 m 90cm wide
sizes 44-50
- Outer fabric 2.30 m 140 cm wide
- Lining 1.40 m 140 cm wide
- insert 1.90 m 90cm wide
sizes 34-50
- 1 x Zipper Divisible 48cm-58cm
- 2x rippers 14-16cm
- forming tape 2.30m
- Watteline strips for the armhole 2x 5x30cm
- Upholstery straight edge, 1cm thick
Cutting:
Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked
Place the fabric with the right side facing up.
The pattern pieces should all be placed with the writing facing upwards. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvage of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm long cut with scissors or with chalk. Markings define the positions of darts, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.
You will need fabric with interlining strips:
- 1x upper step (front part right)
- 1x underlap (front part left)
- 1x Underlap side (front part left)
- 2x front side panel opposite
- 2x yoke front opposite
- 2x side panel rear opposite
- 2x back part opposite
- 1x back yoke in the fold
- 2x upper sleeves opposite
- 2x undersleeves opposite
- 2x pocket bags opposite each other
Also with insert:
- 1x front part facing upper part
- 1x front panel underlap
- 1x upper collar in the fold
- 1x undercollar in the fold
- 2x collar bar in the fold
- 1x document at the back of the break
- 2x pocket receipt
Attention: additional fixations, e.g. in the armhole, are ironed on during the sewing process.
You will need the following from lining material:
- 2x front part opposite
- 1x back part in the fracture
- 2x pocket bags
- 2x upper sleeves opposite
- 2x undersleeves opposite
Sewing instructions:
Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked
To sew this coat you will need a sewing machine.
In addition to the description, the colored lines on the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!
First, you tackle the back part.
You close the center back right sides together, then immediately sew the back side pieces right sides together to the back piece. Iron the center seam allowance into the left side of the back, and iron the two side seam allowances towards the center.
Now you can topstitch the seams from the right side 0.5cm or as wide as your foot, as you like.
Then the back yoke is sewn right sides together to the back piece and the seam allowance is ironed into the yoke. You can also iron the shaping tape into the back armhole
Finally, topstitch this seam from the right side and voila, half of the jacket is finished
Next we move on to the front part.
First, prepare the zippered pockets.
Take the "pocket facing cut piece" and make a template out of it, see photo. Now you can draw the "rectangle" on the left side of the pocket facing.
Place this right side together on the front side piece over the same marking and stitch the "rectangle" all the way around.
Now cut the "rectangle" lengthwise in the middle and diagonally into the corner about 1cm before the beginning/end.
Then turn the facing inwards and iron the rectangle flat.
The pocket zippers are sewn flush onto one side of the fabric pocket bag.
Sew the lining pocket bags right sides together to the pocket facing and iron the pocket bag to the front.
final assembly!
The pocket bag with the zipper is placed under the rectangle so that the two pocket bags lie flush on top of each other, then you first stitch through and through on the side where the zipper is already sewn on.
Now fold the fabric pocket bag backwards so that it is not stitched in place when you stitch through the other zipper side.
Again, the pocket bags are placed flush on top of each other and closed.
Finally, stitch the "rectangle" along the short sides.
Yay! Bag done :)))
You grab the right front piece and the left side front piece and stitch the opened zipper flush to the edge. Look closely at the photo to see how the two zipper pieces need to be stitched on.
Now place the left front piece right sides together on the left side front piece and sew them together. The zipper is now in between. The seam allowance is ironed to the side and stitched on the left side next to the zipper.
Next, sew the side pieces right sides together to the front pieces, iron the seam allowance to the front and topstitch. Important: When topstitching, fold the pocket bag backwards, otherwise you'll only be able to warm your fingernails.
Next, we'll move on to the collar. Sew the bars right sides together onto the upper and lower collar. Iron the seam allowance apart and stitch it flat on both sides. Important: the seam allowance here is only 0.7cm!
Now sew the upper collar to the lower collar, right sides together. Here too, the seam allowance is 0.7cm. The corners are trimmed.
After ironing the facing seam flat, topstitch the collar and secure the neckline with a stitch.
Now take the facings and sew them together at the shoulder, right sides together. Iron the seam allowances apart.
The facing and body are pinned together right sides together. Push the collar in between in the neck hole area.
You start about 4cm on the hem line, continue to the front edge, neck hole, down the other side again and here too 4cm into the hem. The hem corner and the lapel curve are trimmed and the seam allowance is cut back in stages in the neck hole area.
The facing is turned right side out, the facing seam is ironed flat and stitched to the width of the stitching foot. At the zipper, again just close to the edge.
Next, we move on to the sleeve. Close the upper arm seam of the upper and lower sleeves right sides together, iron the seam allowance into the upper sleeve and topstitch from the right side.
Iron the hem upwards.
Then sew the side seam right sides together and iron the seam allowance. Your sleeves are now ready.
The sleeve can now be inserted into the armhole, paying attention to the fitting notches. The extra width is maintained in the ball area.
Sew 2 lining strips, each about 8cm long and 2cm wide, into the armhole, once to the shoulder seam and once to the side seam. The lining will be attached to this later and will no longer be able to slip.
Iron the seam allowance into the sleeve in the ball area.
The armhole is fixed with a piece of cotton wool. The cotton wool strip is approximately 32×5 cm.
Please don't be surprised, this and the next photo are from a different model and therefore have a different color and a different collar.
The shoulder pad can be inserted, the edge of the pad ends at the cut edge of the armhole fabric.
You're on the home stretch! It's time to feed.
You take the back piece and stitch the lining fold in the middle back at the top and bottom about 1.5cm and iron the fold towards the left side of the body.
Then sew the back darts and iron them to the center back.
Now the front and back pieces are sewn together right sides together at the shoulder and side. The seam allowances are ironed apart.
The upper sleeve and lower sleeve are sewn together right sides together. The seam allowances are ironed into the upper sleeve.
Attention : leave an opening of about 20cm in the side seam of the left sleeve.
Now place the sleeves right sides together into the armholes.
Your food is ready!
To make feeding easier for you, we have a video for you here:
Now let's insert the lining jacket. This is sewn to the facings right sides together, then the seam allowance on the lining is stitched flat close to the edge.
Now it's time to use the lining strips. You attach the lining to these strips at the shoulder and side seam.
Now sew the lining seam of the sleeve to the outer fabric seam, right sides together. Warning : "danger of twisting!" Watch the video, then everything will go smoothly.
To prevent the seam allowance from "creeping out" of the sleeve, stitch it in place in the shadow of the seam on the side and upper arm seam from the right side.
After turning the sleeves right side out, turn the jacket inside out to sew the lining to the hem.
At the front edge, start at the seam fold and sew diagonally towards the cut edge (see photo, far left). Leave an opening of about 30cm in the middle.
Then cut the corner at the front hem edge (photo on the far right).
The jacket is turned right side out, the left sleeve inside out. Now you can reach through the opening of the lining sleeve to the hem opening and pull it through the sleeve opening and close it.
The lining sleeve is sewn close to the edge.
As with the sleeve, you attach the hem to each dividing seam in the shadow of the seam.
Your BRITT is ready
If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please send us an email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as quickly as possible.
Have lots of fun with your new designer piece!
Sincerely, your sewing pattern team
