The sewing pattern for the Quete blazer is great as a cool outfit addition for the transitional period. In the style of a boyfriend blazer , casual and comfortable in fit, it really goes with many items of clothing. The short lapels and the lined, patch pockets are a bit demanding, and Quete is fully lined, so you should have some sewing experience.
Length at center back = 68-76cm
→ To the sewing pattern “Quete”
In this pattern, Quete was sewn from a single piece of rope.
Required material:
We recommend stronger jersey or sweat fabric, but wool or linen is also possible.
Size 34-38 | Outer fabric | 1.80 m | 140cm wide |
Lining fabric | 1.35m | 140cm wide | |
inlay | 1.00 m | 90cm wide | |
Size 40-44 | Outer fabric | 2.00 m | 140cm wide |
Lining fabric | 1.40 m | 140cm wide | |
inlay | 1.00 m | 90cm wide | |
Size 46-50 | Outer fabric | 2.40 m | 140cm wide |
Lining fabric | 1.70 m | 140cm wide | |
inlay | 1.15m | 90cm wide |
Cutting:
Cut the pattern pieces from your outer fabric, lining fabric and interlining . Lay the selvedges parallel to the middle so that you can place the front and back pieces in the fold. The pattern pieces should all lie face up. Always align the thread arrow in the same direction on all pieces and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the clips from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Clip the seam allowance in the fabric fold because this is always a center. It is best to roughly cut all outer fabric parts that will be completely covered with inserts first. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. (There is also a video about gluing and fixing cut pieces here.)
Also take a look at our video on the topic of lining blazers .
You need outer material:
- 2x back pieces opposite
- 2x front parts opposite
- 2x side front parts opposite
- 2x front part facing opposite
- 2x upper sleeves in opposite directions
- 2x undersleeves in opposite directions
- 2x collar stays in the break
- 1x upper collar in the break
- 1x undercollar in the break
- 1x neck hole facing in the break
- 2x pockets in opposite directions
also with insert:
- 1x upper collar
- 1x undercollar
- 2x bridge
- 2x front part (if you use an elastic fabric or jersey, I would also recommend gluing the front parts, if you use a firm or light fabric you don't have to do this)
- But what you have to glue on the front part is the shoulder and armhole area. I have drawn the pattern piece to be glued in yellow. The red arrows are the thread lines of the interlining.
- 2x back part
- Here the thread line of the interfacing is horizontal to the thread line of the fabric.
- 2x front cover
- Here the interlining and fabric are in the same thread pattern.
- 2x hems of the sleeves and the back part
- If you haven't glued the entire front pieces, you will have to glue the hems.
- You can also stick an insert strip on the upper edge of the pocket pattern parts.
You need from food:
- 1x back part in the break
- 2x front parts opposite
- 2x side front parts opposite
- 2x upper sleeves in opposite directions
- 2x undersleeves in opposite directions
- 2x pockets in opposite directions
- 2x strips 2cm wide and 10cm long
You also need:
- 1 pair of shoulder pads
- 3 buttons, approx. 2.2cm diameter
- 2 strips of cotton wool for the armhole, approx. 30 x 4cm
Sewing instructions:
To sew this blazer you will need a sewing machine.
In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern.
Have fun sewing!
It's best to start with the food. Place the two sleeve pattern pieces on top of each other on the long side and sew them together. You then iron the seam allowance into the larger pattern piece. Then close the other seam of the sleeve. It is important that you leave a gap of approx. 15cm in this seam in one of the sleeves. You will later turn the jacket over this hole. After the sleeves, we continue with the front part. Here you first sew in the darts and iron them upwards towards the armhole. Then connect the small side part with the large front part. When put together, the front part looks like this. Don't forget to iron out the seam allowance. We continue with the back part. There is a lining fold in the center back. Place the back piece in the fold and sew about 2cm downwards from the edge at 2cm (width of the fold see pattern) and lock it well. Iron this fold in one direction up to the hem. Now you can connect the front pieces to the back piece. To do this, sew the side seams and the shoulder seam together. The side and shoulder seams are ironed apart. Finally, just insert the sleeve and put the finished lining to the side. Take the two sleeve pieces and sew them together on the long side. Iron the seam allowance apart. It's best to iron the hem now so you don't have to do it when the entire sleeve is closed. Unfold the hem again and sew the sleeve closed. Iron the seam allowance apart again. You can put the sleeves aside for now. We continue with the front part. Here you first sew in the darts and iron them upwards towards the armhole. Next, connect the side pieces to the matching front pieces. Iron the seam allowance apart after sewing together. This is what a finished front part looks like. From the front pieces, glue the collar neckline, the shoulder seam and the armhole with shaping tape. We also have a video about this. Just click here . Next, connect the two back pieces together in the middle back. Place right sides together, sew together and then iron the seam apart. On the back piece you also need to tape the neck hole and the armhole with shaping tape. Now you have to prepare the pockets for sewing on. To do this, first iron the pocket opening using the clips. (iron around 4cm), open it up again and sew the lining onto the edge. I then ironed it again as shown in the picture. Then fold the bag over once and sew one side completely closed and leave a gap of 4cm on the other (you will need this to turn the bag right side out later). You then iron the seam allowance onto the lining. It will look like that. Now sew the bottom edge closed and turn the bag through the hole you left in one side. This hole is then closed by sewing on the bag. Finally, I ironed the pockets neatly flat so that the lining doesn't show through. So it's time to put it on the front parts. Dots on the pattern pieces show you the position of the pockets. It's best to sew these on with a narrow edge. At the top of the engagement I placed the lock parallel to the engagement edge (see picture). This prevents the bag from tearing off too quickly due to long use. Once you have put the pockets on, you can sew the facings to the front pieces. Next, iron the hem upwards. You fold the receipt over to the outside (so that the right side is on the right side). What you see here is the receipt that is on the front (you can see a bit of the pocket on the top left). The yellow line is the one you need to sew now. It starts exactly in the fold of the hem and tapers to 1cm from the edge. Under no circumstances sew all the way to the facing end, otherwise you won't be able to attach the lining anymore. When you fold the whole thing over again, it will look like this when finished. Now connect the front pieces to the back piece at the side and shoulder seams. The side and shoulder seams are ironed apart. The blazer also has a collar. First, sew the stays to the collar and iron the seam allowance apart. I stitched the seam with just a few edges on the right and left. Then place the two collars on top of each other and sew them together. You can either iron the seam allowance to one side or sew it just next to the seam on the undercollar. We continue with sewing the short sections together. Don't sew the entire way through, leave 1cm free at the end. Turn the collar over, finish the corners and iron. Next we move on to inserting it.
When attaching the collar, it's best to start at the front. The undercollar is sewn to the front and back. The upper collar is connected to the facings. Sew the undercollar from the clip in the front to the corner.
Then place the facing on the front piece and sew the section together from the edge to the clip.
Unfold the whole thing again and sew the upper collar from the clip to the corner to the front facing. Repeat these three steps at the other end of the collar.
Next, sew the back neck facing to the front facing (both sides). This allows you to fully insert the collar.
Cut the corners until just before the seam (the pink lines in the photo). If you don't do this, you won't be able to turn the collar around to sew it to the back neck hole.
Sew one collar from the corner across the center back to the other corner at the neck hole. Do the same with the front collar at the neck facing. Important: you can sew a hanger into this seam. This is what the collar looks like from the inside. You should still iron the seam allowance apart and the arrows will tell you what happens next. Fold the seam allowances together… ... and sew the seam allowances together. The collar is finished.
Next, sew the sleeves into the blazer. Make sure that the side seams and the clips line up. The sleeve processing is something special in a blazer (and jackets). First you need a cotton strip that is about 4cm wide and 30cm long. Sew this in the middle of the seam allowance of the armhole. Then you need the shoulder pads and the lining strips. Sew the straight side of the pad to the armhole seam allowance. Make sure that the shoulder pad is centered on the shoulder seam. Sew the lining strip into this seam at the height of the shoulder seam. To prevent the padding from wobbling back and forth, sew it with a few stitches to the seam allowance of the shoulder seam.
Now comes the food. Place the lining into the blazer the way it looks when sewn in, but with the right side of the lining on the right side of the fabric. Now sew the lining along the edges of the facing, starting at the hem on one side and sewing through to the other end. Then grab the seam allowance of the armhole at shoulder seam height and sew it together with the strip so that the lining has 3cm of space. You can then sew the seam allowance of the outer fabric and the lining together at points at the height of the side seam and armhole (under the arm).
Then sew the lining to the sleeve hem. So that it doesn't get twisted, I first push the lining properly into the sleeve and pin the lining to the hem with a pin. Then I pull out the sleeve and put the rest on. To prevent the hem of the sleeve from folding out, sew the seam allowances of the seams and hem together at certain points. This is what the sleeve looks like once the lining has been inserted. Now you can close the hem by leaving a gap in the middle so you don't have to turn the entire blazer through the armhole. You sew the remaining piece of hem closed by reaching through the armhole and pulling out the still open hem to sew it up. Now all you have to do is sew the armhole in the lining close to the edge and your blazer is finished. Finally, add the three buttonholes according to the pattern in the right (dressed) front piece. The buttonholes are sewn across the front edge. Make sure you have the right distance to the edge by paying attention to the center front in the pattern. You can now sew on the buttons on the left front piece according to the buttonholes.
Your QUETE is ready!
If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will respond to you as quickly as possible.
Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece!
Warmest regards, Dagmar and Ellen.
The post sewing instructions for the blazer “Quete” first appeared on Blog Sewing Patterns Berlin .