Sewing instructions pencil skirt Agnetha

The classic skirt Agnetha is a narrow, knee-length pencil skirt with a shaped waistband, a concealed slit and seam zips in the center back. You can of course also find a lining pattern in the pattern.

Length at center back = 58 - 62 cm

Agnetha was sewn from a linen blend in this pattern.

→ To the pattern “Agnetha”

Required material:

We recommend a polyester/viscose blend, a wool blend or a cotton fabric, anything with elastane.

Sizes 34-44

• Outer fabric 1.00 m (140 cm wide)
• Lining 0.70 m (140cm wide)

Sizes 46-50

• Outer fabric 1.40 m (140 cm wide)
• Lining 1.30 m (140cm wide)

Sizes 34-50

• Insert 0.40 m (90 cm wide)
• Fixing tape 1.10 m (1cm wide)
• Seam ripper 1x 22 cm long

cutting:

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric, lining fabric and interlining. Lay the fabric right side up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the middle so that you can lay the front, back, inside back waistband and front waistband in a fold. The pattern pieces should all be face up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all the notches from the pattern through a 3mm long incision with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Pinch the seam allowance in the fold of the fabric because this is always a center. Markings define positions of dart ends, pocket positions, etc. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to first roughly cut all outer fabric parts that are completely covered with an interlining. After you have fixed the insert, cut it out exactly. There is also a video about gluing and fixing pattern pieces here.

You need from fabric:

• 2x back piece in opposite directions
• 1x front part in break

also with insert:

• 2x waistband-rear inside opposite
• 2x waistband-rear outside opposite
• 2x waistband in front in the break
• 1x slit slip center back
• 2x back piece zip position
• 1x slit top step (right side of body)

also with band:

• 1x collar front inside
• 2x waistband-rear inside

From lining you need:

• 2x back piece in opposite directions
• 1x front part in break

Sewing instructions:

To sew this skirt you need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, alternatively you can use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the raw edges.

In addition to the description, the colorful lines in the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something to be glued.

When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specially marked are 1 cm wide!

Happy sewing!

Begin by sewing the waist darts in the front and back pieces. A simple, straight dart is closed and sewn on the wrong side of the fabric, snap by snap, tapering from the widest point to the tip (so that the dart does not bag) on ​​the wrong side of the fabric, following the exact transfer of the pattern and carefully observing the marking. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you don't sew too much or too little and finish the waist seam nicely straight.
So that you don't have to bartack at the top, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch. Iron the dart content towards the center front or center back.

Then neaten the front part all around at the side seam and hem.

You also neaten the back parts all around.

For further preparation, you can iron the hems in the front according to the pattern.

Now place both back pieces right sides together and sew a seam, starting at the snap of the zipper and ending at the marking of the slit. Iron the seam allowances apart or the slit to the left side of the body.

Now take the outer waistband in front and place it, right sides together, on the upper waist line of the front part. Sew both together.

The back parts are also sewn together with the outer waistband, right sides together.

Press the seam allowances in the front and back up.

After the waistband has been processed, you can insert the seam zipper in the center back.

Neat the slit receipt all the way around.

Now place this, right sides together, on the underlay of the back part on the right side of the body. Sew both together.

The seam allowances are then flat-stitched. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also means that the facing automatically lies inwards and does not roll out if it is not topstitched separately. Only the facing is stitched to the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Here you can see a detailed photo of the flat-quilted slip.

Then iron the hems according to the pattern.

For fabrics that particularly push through, use cardboard or strong fleece to help.

After ironing, secure the top and bottom flaps with a seam running diagonally downwards.

The top and bottom flaps are secured with a short seam at the hem.

Place both back pieces right sides together and close the side seams. Pay attention to the seam allowances in the pattern. Iron the seam allowances apart.

Now let's get to the food. To do this, first neaten the sections for the seam zipper individually and then the section up to the slit snaps together.

Sew the section of the center back from knip to knip, right sides together.

Sew the side seams right sides together and neaten the seam allowances together. Then iron them backwards.

The slit is also trimmed all around...

… 0.5cm ironed and stitched through.

Iron the hem in twice and overstitch it just under the edge.

Before you sew on the waistband, you still have to work on the darts in the lining. To do this, you simply place the snaps on top of each other according to the cut.

Now sew the side seams of the inner cuffs - front and back - right sides together and iron the seam allowances apart.

Now place the prepared inner cuff on the lining, right sides together.

Now sew the lining together with the seam zipper right sides together.

Sew the waist seam of the inner and outer cuffs together, right sides together.

Then the seam allowances are flat-stitched as far as you can get. This method not only makes the final ironing easier, but also means that the inner waistband, if it is not topstitched, automatically lies inwards and does not roll out. Only the inner waistband is stitched close to the edge of the seam allowances. The stitching line can then only be seen from the wrong side of the fabric, but not from the right side.

Here you can see a detail photo of the flat-stitched seam.

You secure the waistband with a seam in the shadow of the cuff.

Finally, you work the hem with loose stitches at regular intervals by hand - a hemstitch.

Your AGNETHA is ready !

If you don't know what to do, or if you have any questions, please send us an email to info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as soon as possible. Have a lot of fun with your new designer piece! 

Sincerely, your Dagmar and Ellen.