Sewing instructions for the Cadiz blouse shirt

Level : for experienced
 
In this tutorial, Cadiz was sewn from a thin viscose and a fine knit fabric.

Cadiz with one long sleeve was sewn from a jersey.

You can get the long sleeve add-on for free in our shop.

Required materials:

We recommend a cotton voile, a viscose or even silk, knit fabrics.

Sizes 34-42	Outer fabric	1.40m	140 cm wide
Sizes 44-50	Outer fabric	1.60m	140 cm wide

Cutting:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked!

Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interfacing. Lay the fabric right side up. Place the selvedges parallel to the center so you can place the back piece, collar stand, undercollar, and overcollar on the fold. The pattern pieces should all be laid with the writing facing up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm long snip with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Notch the seam allowance on the fold, as this is always the center. Marks define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.

• 1x front part in the break
• 2x back part opposite
•   2x front sleeves opposite
• 2x back sleeves opposite
• 1x waistband in the front fold
• 2x waistband at the back/ tie band opposite
• 1x bias tape neck hole

Sewing instructions:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked!

To sew this blouse you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

Be sure to use a thin, new sewing machine needle. The colored lines in the pictures, in addition to the description, show you where to sew or glue something.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1 cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

Start with your back pieces. Chain the center back from the neckline to the beginning of the slit. Sew the seams together, right sides together, and press them open. The slit will be ironed over 2 cm.

Fold the slit twice, 1 cm wide, and iron it flat. Stitch the slit all the way around, using a small point if you like. The slit is finished!

Next, we'll work on the sleeves. Place the front sleeve, right sides together, on the back sleeve, close the upper arm seam, and neaten the seam allowance.

Press the upper arm seam back. Overcast the hem and press it 2 cm wide.

Close the underarm seam, neaten the seam allowance, and press it forward. Now fold the ironed hem upward.

Sew the sleeve hem all the way around.

Place the front and back pieces right sides together, close the side seams, neaten the seam allowances and press them to the back.

Now insert the sleeve. Pay attention to the fitting notches so you don't mix up the sleeves. Start at the neckline. Place the sleeve, right sides together, on your body pieces and sew it all the way around until you reach the neckline on the other side. Neaten the seam allowance together.

Next, sew the ribbon along the short side, right sides together, and press the seam open. Tuck the ribbon into the neckline. The strip should be slightly shorter than your neckline.

Iron the strip upwards. Wrap the ribbon around the seam allowance, fold it under so that it just covers the topstitching, and pin it in place.

Now topstitch the ribbon from the right side, close to the edge. Make sure to stitch the ribbon on the inside as well.

Now we start with the tie 😊Place the side seam of the waistband pieces right sides together, close the seam and iron it apart.

Next we proceed with the crimping.

You'll thread so-called gathering threads into the bottom edge of your top. These help to achieve even gathering. To do this, select the largest stitch setting on your sewing machine. At the beginning and end of the auxiliary seams, you shouldn't backtack; instead, leave about 10 cm of thread at each end. Sew two gathering seams about 1 cm apart, at 0.5 cm and 1.5 cm from the raw edge, so that the later joining seam runs exactly between the two auxiliary seams. Pay attention to the pattern markings to determine which area should be gathered.

Then carefully pull the two bobbin threads on one side and push the fabric together until you reach the seam width of the waistband.

Now sew the top and the cuff together right sides together and then remove the seam threads.

Place the tie ribbon right sides together along the fold edge and close the seam, if possible up to the side seam. The blouse will then rest in the tie ribbon. Carefully trim the seam corners at the end of the ribbon.

Turn the ribbons right side out and iron them flat. The inner waistband is still loose and needs to be attached in the next step.

Fold the opening 1cm wide and stitch it in place with a stitch marker. Now you can close this opening with a needle and thread. Then undo the stitch marker.

Your Cadiz is ready !

If you're stuck or have any questions, please email us at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We'll respond as soon as possible. 

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece! 

Would you like to sew your Cadiz with a long sleeve?

Cut the long sleeves and cuffs instead of the short sleeve.

Close the upper arm seam, chain it off, and iron it back. Fold the cuff in half and iron the edge flat.

Close the seam on the sleeve cuff and iron the seam open.

Fold the pleats together according to the pattern and pin them in place.

Stitch the pleats all the way around the hem. Fold the cuffs together in the middle.

Close the underarm seam and neaten it.

Slide the cuff into the sleeve and pin the seam allowances together. The cuff seam should line up with the underarm seam.

Sew the cuffs and sleeves together and then chain the seam.

Turn the sleeve right side out.

Your Cadiz with long sleeves is ready:))

Sincerely, your Schnittmuster-Berlin team.