Level : for experienced users
Casablanca was sewn from a thin cotton print in this tutorial.
Materials needed:
We recommend a cotton voile, a viscose or even silk.
| Sizes 34-42 with scarf | Outer fabric | 2.30m | 140 cm wide |
| Sizes 44-50 with scarf | Outer fabric | 2.60m |
140 cm wide |
Sizes 34-42 without scarf, outer fabric 2.10m
Size 44-50 without scarf, outer fabric 2.40m
Cut:
Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as indicated by the marking notches!
Cut out the pattern pieces from your outer fabric and interfacing. Place the fabric right side up. Align the selvedges parallel to the center so you can lay out the back piece, collar stand, undercollar, and upper collar on the fold. All pattern pieces should be laid with the printed side facing up. Always align the grainline arrow in the same direction on all pieces, parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm snip with scissors or using chalk, and mark the dart ends. Clip the seam allowance on the fold, as this is always the center point. Markings define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins.
You will need the following fabric:
- 1x front part top in the break
- 1x ruffle front-top in the break
- 1x front part center in the fold
- 2x ruffle at the bottom of the fold (for front and back)
- 1x front part bottom in break
- 2x back piece top, mirrored
- 1x ruffle at the back-top in the break
- 1x back piece center in the fold
- 1x back part bottom in the fold
- 1x bias strip for the collarless version (To save fabric you can also cut the bias strip into 3 equal length pieces)
- 1x neck scarf in half
- 2x scarf, opposite each other
- 2x sleeves, mirrored
- 2x sleeve ruffles, opposite each other
To sew this blouse you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch of your sewing machine to finish the cut edges.
The colored lines in the pictures show you, in addition to the description, where to sew a seam or glue something.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances not specifically marked are 1 cm wide!
Have fun sewing!
You start by preparing ALL the ruffles: Fold the bottom edge over twice by 0.7 cm and stitch it down. (Red line)
You'll need to add gathering stitches to the top edge. These help create even gathers. To do this, select the longest stitch setting on your sewing machine. Don't backstitch at the beginning or end of the gathering stitches; leave about 10 cm of thread leading. Sew two gathering stitches about 1 cm apart, one 0.5 cm and the other 1.5 cm from the cut edge, so that the final seam will run precisely between these two stitches.
First, take the sleeves, place the ruffle at the hem, and carefully pull the two bobbin threads on one side, gathering the fabric until you reach the seam allowance of the sleeve hem. You can now distribute the gathers evenly.
Now, stitch the ruffle to the sleeve, right sides together, finish the seam allowance, and press it upwards. Then, remove the gathering threads by pulling out the bobbin thread.
Let's continue with the front part.
The procedure is the same as for the sleeve: The upper front ruffle is gathered to the seam length.
You place the ruffle right side up on the center front piece and secure it with a basting stitch.
The upper front piece is stitched on right sides together, the seam allowance is finished together, ironed upwards and the gathering threads are removed.
You can also secure the ruffle and the front piece at the armhole with a basting stitch.
Before you do exactly the same thing on the back piece, you finish the back center seam in the upper back piece, sew it right sides together, press the seam allowance open and also make the slit, which you fold over 2x 0.7cm.
Now you do everything exactly the same way as on the front part.
Place the front and back pieces right sides together at the shoulder and sew the seam. Finish the seam allowances together and press them towards the front.
Next, sew the sleeves into the armholes, right sides together. Pay attention to the notches so you don't mix up the sleeves. Finish the seam allowance together and press it towards the sleeve.
Now you can sew the sleeve side seam and the side seam right sides together in one go. Finish the seam allowance together and press it forward.
Now it's time for the lower part of the blouse. The lower front and back pieces are sewn together right sides facing along the side seam, the seam allowance is finished together and pressed forward.
The hem is folded over twice by 0.7 cm and stitched.
The lower ruffle is also sewn together at the side seam.
You probably already guessed it: the ruffle is inserted between the top and the hem, just like you did above.
There are two collar variations I'd like to show you: first, I'll make the shawl collar.
You join the neckline scarf to the scarf pieces right sides together on each side and iron the seam allowance into the neckline scarf.
The seam allowances are folded over once narrowly and topstitched.
The neckline scarf is now sewn to the neckline right sides together, making sure that there is a 1.5cm wide seam allowance here as well.
Now you do the same as you did with the scarf: fold the seam allowance upwards twice by 0.7cm and stitch it down.
Now all you have to do is fold the scarf over twice by 0.7cm all the way around and stitch it down.
Your CASABLANCA with shawl collar is finished...
...Wait, first the version with the framed neck opening:
For this, simply trim off the 1.5cm seam allowance from the neckline, then sew the bias tape into the neckline with a 0.7cm seam allowance, right sides together. Press the seam allowance upwards. At the same time, also press the seam allowance on the ties to the side.
Next, iron the bias strip around the neckline seam allowance, fold it in, and as above, iron the strips as well.
Now you can stitch the diagonal strip in place in one go. Tie a knot at the ends of the strip.
Your CASABLANCA is finished.
If you get stuck or have any questions, please feel free to contact us by email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will reply as soon as possible.
Have lots of fun with your new designer piece!
Sincerely, your sewing pattern team
