Sewing Instructions Blouse Como

Level : medium - for experienced
 
In this tutorial, Como was sewn from a thin denim fabric.

Required material:

We recommend you add!!

sizes 34-42	outer fabric	1.20 m	140 cm wide
	insert	0.60 m	90 cm wide
	buttons	8 pieces	1 cm diameter
sizes 44-50	outer fabric	1.40 m	140 cm wide
	insert	0.60 m	90 cm wide
	buttons	8 pieces	1 cm diameter

sizes 34-50

rib

0.55 m

80 cm wide

Cutting:

Seam allowances are included - 1cm wide or as marked!

Cut the pattern pieces out of your outer fabric and interfacing. Lay the fabric with the right side facing up. Lay the selvedges parallel to the middle so that you can lay the back piece, collar stand, under and upper collar on the fold. The pattern pieces should all lie with the writing facing up. Always align the grain arrow on all pieces in the same direction and parallel to the selvedge of the fabric. Transfer all notches from the pattern by making a 3mm long cut with scissors or chalk and mark the ends of the darts. Notch the seam allowance on the fold of the fabric because this is always a middle. Markings define the positions of dart ends, pocket positions, and much more. Transfer these either with chalk or pins. It is best to cut all outer fabric pieces that are to be completely covered with interfacing roughly first. After you have secured the interfacing, cut it out precisely. There is also a video here about gluing and securing pattern pieces.

You will need fabric:

• 1x back part in the fracture
• 2x front part opposite
• 2x sleeves opposite
• 2x Passe im Bruch

...and from ribbed fabric/knitted fabric:

• 1x waistband, in the larger sizes the waistband must be split in the side seam
• 2x cuffs opposite

also with insert:

• 2x collar bar in the fold
• 1x upper collar in the fold
• 1x undercollar in the fold
• 2x button placket opposite
  

Sewing instructions:

To sew this blouse you will need a sewing machine and an overlock sewing machine, or alternatively the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to neaten the cut edges.

To sew on the cuffs, use a jersey needle.

In addition to the description, the colored lines on the pictures show you where a seam needs to be sewn or something needs to be glued.
When sewing, pay attention to the seam allowance included in the pattern. Seam allowances that are not specifically marked are 1cm wide!
Have fun sewing!

You start by sewing the bust darts.

A simple, straight dart is made, after the pattern has been transferred exactly and the markings have been carefully observed, on the left side of the fabric, notch by notch, tapering nicely from the widest point to the tip. (with it  the dart does not bunch up) is closed and sewn. Draw a line with the tailor's chalk beforehand so that you do not sew too much or too little and the side seam ends nice and straight.
So that you don't have to lock the tip, you can sew the last centimeter with a very small stitch.

In this blouse, some seams are gathered, so you now pull in so-called gathering threads in the following places:

• shoulder seam on the front
  
• yoke seam on the back
  
• arm ball
  

They are a tool for achieving even gathering. To do this, select the largest stitch setting on your sewing machine. At the beginning and end of the auxiliary seams, you must not lock, but leave about 10cm of thread. You sew 2 row seams at a distance of about 1cm, namely at 0.5cm and 1.5cm from the cut edge, so that the later seam runs exactly between the two auxiliary seams. Pay attention to the pattern markings to see which area should be gathered.

Now carefully pull the two bobbin threads on one side and push the fabric together until you have reached the seam width of the respective areas. You can now distribute the gathers evenly.

The yoke is then sewn on.

You place the inner yoke on the table with the right side of the fabric facing up. You place the front piece with the right side facing up on the shoulder seam of the yoke. Now the outer yoke is pinned onto it with the wrong side of the fabric facing up.

You close the seam, pull out the stitching threads and iron the seam allowance into the yoke

Now it gets tricky, but brilliant: the burrito technique. First, sew the outer back yoke right sides together to the back piece, remove the stitching threads and iron the seam allowance into the yoke.

1. You lay the blouse out on the table with the right side facing up and then roll the front pieces up to the shoulder seam.
2. Do the same with the back piece until the already attached yoke seam is at the top.
3. Now take the loose yoke part, enclose the front and back parts with it and sew it to the already attached yoke part.

Pull the front and back pieces out of the burrito at the side and your super neatly finished yoke is ready...great, right?

You can stitch the neck hole and the armholes together in the yoke area with an auxiliary stitch and the yoke seams are stitched 0.2 and 0.7 cm wide.

Continuing with the button strips:

You iron them in half lengthwise, then sew them right sides together to the inside of the front pieces.

Iron over 1cm of seam allowance on the open edge and stitch the strip in place from the right side. The finished front edge can also be stitched on the edge.

Now you'll also punch the buttonholes into the placket of the right front piece, because you won't be able to get to them so easily later.

Now let's move on to making the shirt collar. To do this, prepare the collar stand. Iron the outer stand over by 1cm.

The upper and lower collars are placed on top of each other, right sides together, and sewn together with 0.7cm. The corners are then trimmed

Turn the collar right side out and iron the turned edge flat. Use an auxiliary seam on the seam for the stand to ensure the collar has enough roll width. This is necessary so that the collar lies nicely.

Stitch the outer edge 0.2 and 0.7 cm wide.

The collar can now be connected to the collar stand. To do this, place the inner stand right sides together on the upper collar.

Then the pre-ironed outer panel is stitched, right sides together, onto the inner panel and undercollar. Cut the seam allowance a little in the curve.

The bridge is turned right side out and ironed flat.

Now the collar is sewn on by pinning the inner piece, right sides together, to the neck hole and stitching it in place.

The seam allowance from the neck hole is ironed into the collar stand. The previously ironed outer stand is stitched in place with a seam close to the edge. You can then stitch the entire collar stand all the way around with a seam close to the edge...and since you're at the collar, you can make the last buttonhole in the collar stand.

Next, we move on to the sleeve. The stitching threads are already in the sleeve cap, so you can sew the sleeve right sides together into the armhole. Make sure you use the notches to make sure you don't mix up the right and left sleeves. The stitching threads are removed, the seam allowance is neatened together and ironed into the sleeve cap.

You can then sew the side seam of the blouse and sleeve right sides together in one go. The seam allowance is neatened together and ironed to the front.

Final spurt: The cuffs and hem band are ironed in half lengthwise and then sewn together on the short side, right sides together, and the seam is ironed apart.

First, pin the blouse together at the front center hem and secure it with an auxiliary stitch......

.....then you pin the folded cuffs to the blouse...

...and stretch the cuffs to the blouse while sewing. The seam allowance is neatened together and ironed into the blouse.

Now just add the buttons, and...drum roll...

your COMO is ready!

If you don't know what to do next or if you have any questions, please send us an email at info@schnittmuster-berlin.de. We will answer you as quickly as possible. 

Have lots of fun with your new designer piece! 

Best regards, your pattern team!